So, down to the problem that brings me here. My GE washer while it is supposed to be spinning does not. But it is a sporatic problem. If you wait for some time it will kick on.

Here is the troubleshooting I have done so far. In order to recepricate the problem I first did it by opening and closing the lid. This starts and stops the motor. After a few cycles it wont start up again. I have also been able to get the motor to go inactive by cycling the operation knob on and off and also by pulling the plug on the motor - on and off as well.


One time I was able to tap the motor with the handle of a screw driver and it started up immediately. but only that one time. I thought maybe a bush might be causing it to stick?

Since I don't have a wiring diagram for the motor (I can't find one anywhere, not even GE will give it to me) I went ahead and pulled the connections on the motor and and measured the voltages then the motor should be spinning the drum.

I took voltages while the motor was spinning as well as when it was 'jammed' but was supposed to be on. All of the voltages were the same which leads me to believe that all of the voltages that command and power the motor are ok and it is the motor which is bad.

Also I noticed that when I am cycling the motor in order to get it to go inactive when it finally does it seems like the drum begins to spin for half a second and then stops.

do any of you have some guidance or maybe you can confirm my theory?

I see the how to which shows how to test a motor. Asks you to set the multimeter across both terminals on the motor and measure....but my motor has 5 wires going to it. Which ones should I check?

EDIT:There are two terminals that when the motor is supposed to be spinning are at ~120V I am assuming that these are the main leads to the motor. I tried to measure continuity between the terminals and ground one has a red wire going to the terminal the other is a blue wire. When I check for continuity between the red terminal and the motor housing there is none, even when the motor is functioning properly. The blue terminal has continuity with the housing when the motor is not working properly but when it is working fine there is continuity. Does this mean there is a dead spot in the motor?
Thanks in advance.
Berto

by your diagnosis ,it is a
motor problem

Have a Maytag top loader, about 8-10 years old, model LAT9606AAE, and yesterday started to 'squeal' like a fan belt in a car when it slips, then a distinct 'rubber' smell came from machine. Also, have been noticing a little bit of water coming out onto the floor from the machine. Had a service guy come over, he tilted it back and looked underneath, said he felt the transmission was toast, and the water was probably coming from a seal that was leaking. Was going to cost $500 bucks, more than the machine.
Does this sound feasible?

BobK:confused:

I have the same washer and am experiencing almost the same problem. Although I am not seeing water coming out. Thespin cycle is not working so the clothes are still wet. I still smell the burning rubber and the it still sqeeks, but not as bad since we replaced and tightened the belts.
Did you pay to fix your machine? If so, is it working now? I'm not sure that we have the same exact problem since water is not leaking on mine, but I was hoping you could suggest a fix for the spin cycle not working.