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Hello, first of all want to thank for this great web help and support. Having problem what lots of people do after SELF CLEANING on my Kitchen Aid KGRT607HBS9 gas oven. Everything looks as usually but oven does not work and constantly shows LOW for temperature reading. As I understand I have thermal fuse problem which is in the back of the appliance. Am I right and what is the number of the part I should be looking for? Once again thanks a lot for your help and time.
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Originally Posted by: zygis  Hello, first of all want to thank for this great web help and support. Having problem what lots of people do after SELF CLEANING on my Kitchen Aid KGRT607HBS9 gas oven. Everything looks as usually but oven does not work and constantly shows LOW for temperature reading. As I understand I have thermal fuse problem which is in the back of the appliance. Am I right and what is the number of the part I should be looking for? Once again thanks a lot for your help and time. Zygis, Actually, your thermal fuse is located on the front of the cooktop burner box. behind the control panel, but if it is and open circuit, there'd be no display, at all. Part number: AP3067392
When your inside and working with the thermal fuse, also check or replace the cooling fan thermostat, Part number: AP2994624
and the fan motor, if either is defective, it would cause the control arae to overheat and open the thermal fuse. Heres some help, 1. Unplug range or disconnect power. 2. Turn off gas supply to range.
3. Remove the two grates from the top of the range. 4. Remove the control panel 9. To remove a thermal switch: a) Remove the wires from the terminals. b) Remove the mounting screws.
REMOVING THE EOC ASSEMBLY ON SLIDE-IN & FREESTANDING MODELS, AND THE USER INTERFACE Pull the range forward so you can access the two end cap screws.
5. To remove the electronic oven control
(EOC) assembly on slide-in models: a) Pull the knobs off the gas valves.
b) Remove the two screws from the sides of the end caps.
c) Open the oven door and remove the screws from the bottom of the control panel.
d) Pull out on the bottom of the control panel, unclip the top edge from the bracket, and rotate the control panel forward so you can access the components.
e) Disconnect the wire connectors from the electronic oven control board at P1 and P2, and the ribbon cable connector at P40.
f) Remove the four screws from the electronic oven control housing, and remove the assembly from the control panel. NOTE: The EOC boards and the housing are replaced as an assembly.
Thanks and Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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Rank: Member
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Hello, replaced both sensors still doesn't work. Broil and Convection Broil options seems to work fine except that fan on Convection doesn't spin. Is this the motor you were referring or is there another one and can bad motor cause trouble like this? Needed 9759944 (9751984) instead of AP2994624 (9752006). Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
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Originally Posted by: zygis Hello, replaced both sensors still doesn't work. Broil and Convection Broil options seems to work fine except that fan on Convection doesn't spin. Is this the motor you were referring or is there another one and can bad motor cause trouble like this? Needed 9759944 (9751984) instead of AP2994624 (9752006). Thanks. Zygis, We're discussing two different fans, and you probably don't need either one. The cooling fan is located in the bottom, left side wall of the lower cabinet, it needs to come on at a certain temp. and cools the cooktop area of the range Part number: AP2994399
The convection fan is located in the back of the oven cavity, and only operates when convection bake or broil is selected, and there is a 5 to 10 minute delay to the fan. Part number: AP3008389
Based on your present post, You want to start at the touchpad assembly, since some of the selection buttons don't work. There is no button matrix test from the manufacturer or we could test the buttons. Part number: AP3178831
Thanks and Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Rank: Member
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Hello, buttons beep and work as they used to- nothing unusual or suspicious only that gas is only supplied to the top/broil burner but not the bottom one. Is it possible that valve in the bottom storage compartment is not opening or some blown sensor not opening it because seems that only bottom burner is not operating properly. Thank you very much again for you effort and time. Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222
Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
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Originally Posted by: zygis Hello, buttons beep and work as they used to- nothing unusual or suspicious only that gas is only supplied to the top/broil burner but not the bottom one. Is it possible that valve in the bottom storage compartment is not opening or some blown sensor not opening it because seems that only bottom burner is not operating properly. Thank you very much again for you effort and time. Thanks. Zygis, OK, Let me get this right, Everything is working and programming properly. The only issue is the bake burner won't ignite, correct ? You'll need to remove the oven rack(s) and oven bottom panel to access the burner igniter. Program a Bake cycle and temp. and observe the ig niter. It should start to glow, and should be "white" hot in a matter of 30 to 60 seconds and the gas should release and ignite. Part number: AP3126125
If you have access to a "clamp on ammeter" you can check for a 3.2 to 3.6 amp draw on the igniter when it is glowing, or 3.2 to 3.6 VAC across the two wires that attach to the gas safety valve. If the amperage or the voltage is lower than specified, you have a weak igniter. If you have the proper amperage or voltage you'd have a bad oven burner safety valve, or no gas the the valve. Part number: AP3178816
:) :) :)
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