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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.
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A evaporator fan motor drawing excessive current will burn out the motherboard driver, but a bad motherboard will not burn out the motor. I would replace the motor first and see if the problem goes away.
I have NEVER said to replace the motherboard only in these type failures for obvious reasons.If the original problem was a bad motor, you would blow out the new motherboard when you plug it in!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Moisture should not get into the freezer unless the door gaskets are bad.
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My GE GSS20IEMBWW has a moisture problem in the freezer section (water droplets all over the bottom side of the icemaker motor). GE lost a class action lawsuit over this moisture problem in the early to mid 00's. To try to correct my problem, GE supplied a new MB, doors and evaporator cover which didn't help. Additionally I upgraded to a third mother board and evaporator motor (GE said this would fix the noisy motor) and I still had moisture problems and a loud motor caused by the iceing. It appears that when it goes on defrost some of the water puts an unseable thin coating on the blades of the fan. If I use a blow dryer on the fan blades I am good for a few days. Also, water eventually gets into the gear drive for the ice maker and freezes it up which requires hair blower defrosting. So somewhere I am getting excess water on my ice maker motor and evaporator fan from somewhere other than bad seals on two sets of doors. I fixed all of these things by buying a Maytag, but would like a resoulution so I can use the GE as a backup.
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i have a GE PSH23SGPABS that i just got from the inlaws thats about 6 years old. runs a long time to get cool, but will get down to the 0/37*. once a door is open it takes a very long time to cool again (couple hours max). the evap fan is running slow and never changes rpm even though its supposed to be variable speed. i tested the control board and found the following;
j2-3 to j2-8 reads 1.1k ohms instead of the 1.5-3 range
j2-3 to j2-4 reads 3.1v, well less than the 8v i was testing for
jumping j2-4 to j2-8 runs the fan at full speed meaning the fan is still good, right????
i have no brown spot on the control panel at r95 which is supposed to indicate that the failure did not start with the motor.
i havent torn apart the freezer to check the wiring at the motor, but i figure that since the control board fails when the motor fails, its worth replacing the 7 yo motor to keep the control board from going bad again.
make sense?
ge lists the wr60x10185 as the replacement motor without the thermistor wired in. is this correct? should i still replace the thermistor? whats the reasoning?
also, it is running almost nonstop. should i transfer the food to another fridge to keep the compressor from burning up until parts arrive? is the compressor rated for this duty cycle?
thanks, Tim
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Tim, I'm afraid I did not get clear which part or parts are you going to replace? The main control board, the evaporator fan motor or both? It is better, and it will make the repair more reliable, if you will order the fan motor with the thermistor wired into the connecting harness. Otherwise you have to cut off the old motor wires and splice in the new motor. Quote:...also, it is running almost nonstop. should i transfer the food to another fridge to keep the compressor from burning up until parts arrive?... I don't think it will damage the compressor. - The evaporator fan motor with the thermistor wired into the connecting harness Part number: AP3191003
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Joined: 10/2/2011(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Gene  Tim,
I'm afraid I did not get clear which part or parts are you going to replace? The main control board, the evaporator fan motor or both?
Both is what i was thinking. ive read that a motor seizing will cause the board to fail. since im replacing the board, i figured id replace the motor as well and save myself the hassle of having to replace the board in a few years if the motor burns up.
It is better, and it will make the repair more reliable, if you will order the fan motor with the thermistor wired into the connecting harness. Otherwise you have to cut off the old motor wires and splice in the new motor.
will do. the ge replacement part didnt call for it and i was unsure. if i order with the thermistor wired in will it be a true unplug and replace or will there be more cutting and splicing anyways?
I don't think it will damage the compressor.
good to hear. i was unsure. we just brought this in our house after it was stored for a couple months at the inlaws. not sure if the transport killed the board or if the issue had been going on for a while. its possible the compressor has been running like this for a long time.
thanks Gene!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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I have a GE psc23nswa ss. Every couple of weeks or so the cooling in the freezer and fridge cease along with water not flowing out of the drink dispensor on the front of the fridge. It is still running while this is going on. consumer panel can be switched to dispence ice, it's just the water. A couple hours later everything works fine without any intervention from me.
I took a look at the main board and what I think might be the main chip appears to be blown with purple goo coming out. There is a smaller chip to the right of the main that has red coming out. I have ordered a new board from appliancepartspros.com, and I am also putting in a surge supressor outlet. I'm concerned that the issue may be beyond the board, maybe not since the fridge works fine most of the time.
Wanted to ask before I attempt to test the evaporator motor.
Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Joined: 5/16/2012(UTC)
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I have a PSS26NWASS GE Profile refrigerator. I tested the fresh food fan and it is not running. Itested the voltages at the main board and they are good. I ordered the fan and wiring harness. When it arrived there are no directions on how to get the fan housing apart. I took the 2 screws out and unclipped the 3 clips, but the unit will not come out. Please help.
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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.
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