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Having the same problem of no heat with my dryer. I have a Kenmore elite he3 dryer model 11092822101 that runs on propane. The dryer ran perfect until I ran the propane tank empty. When the tank was filled the dryer would run as normal but I got no heat. I pulled the toe panel off and noticed that the burner was not glowing and had no flame. I did not hear or smell any propane being released from the burner. Also the ignitor was not making any clicking noises like a grill trying to lite. I checked the high limit (.4 Ohms) Flame sensor (.4 Ohms), checked both coils- 2 prong 1290 Ohms and 3 prongs- lead 1 & 2 1354 Ohms and lead 1&3 552 Ohms. Both the Thermal Fuse and Thermistor did not read on the meter. I figured they were bad but wanted to ask the experts before I replaced them. Please Help My dryer is in a million pieces, Thanks
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Hello. I'm having troubles with my Whirlpool gas dryer, there's no heat at all. I did everything suggested at first post and the only thing I'm not sure are the coils: Originally Posted by: Gene 
Gas valve coils also could be tested by resistance. There are two coils – one with three terminals and one with two terminals.
1. Coil with two terminals should have 1220 ± 50 Ohms
2. Coil with three terminals if held with terminals in upper position:
a) across the left and the middle terminals – 1365 ± 25 Ohms
b) across the left and the right terminals – 560 ± 25 Ohms
Good luck.
Gene. My reading on the three terminals coil across the left and middle is 1665 aprox. Is this bad??? Thank you!
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Hi, Maybe this blog post will help. http://appliancejunk.com...t-dryer-gas-valve-coils/Keep in mind the coils may test ok, but still be faulty. Sometimes the coils will work when they are cold and one of them will start to get warm as the dryer is being used and then start to fail. Coils are cheap and easy to replace. Be sure to replace both coils at the same time.
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J have a Whirlpool LGR7646EQO no heat new igniter .
When I look through peep hole I se no ignited lighting upbeat all.
when using a digital ohm meter set to 200,when I test the thermal fuse the meter doesn't do anything
The screen stays the same at 1. .
If I touch leads together on meter I get 05.1 apart I get 1, touch both sides of thermal fuse still get 1 .
what should a good fuse read? Im thinking bad fuse?
Thanks for any help.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Why did you set your meter on 200? Is it the lowest possible setting? Anyway, it shows that the thermal fuse is open and has to be replaced. - The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
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I thought that's what I read in the how to posted.
I have a sperry dm210a and the lowest is 200,highest is 2M for ohms and sound also.
What should I set it at? And when I jumped wires together I get heat!!!
So I will order part and wait I wont operate dryer until its fixed. Thanks for answering so quick.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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According to the meter instructions you set it right. The reading showed the open circuit and it was proved by the bypass test you did. The new thermal fuse should fix it. You are absolutely right - do not operate the dryer until it's fixed.
While waiting for the part it's a good idea to clean the dryer vent line and inside the dryer itself.
Gene.
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"If any of them is open – it has to be replaced.
If the thermal fuse is blown – it has to be replaced together with the cycling thermostat."
I believe you, but is seems strange that I would have to replace the cycling thermostat if it tests ok.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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It can tests ok for continuity and still be bad temperature wise.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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I have an older Maytag gas dryer model PYG2300AWW that will not heat. It will rotate the drum but no heat is developed. In order to test this unit I switched the orifice and gas valve parts over to propane but that did not make any difference. I checked all the fuses and cannot find any problem. The ignitor is OK as far as I can tell but I need a resistance reading spec to check it with my meter anyhow. I checked the gas valve coils and they have the proper resistance according to my info. The timer is advancing when it is set for timed heating. The flame sensor appears to be OK but the surface under the glass is black. Is this normal ? I need a resistance reading for a new one .
When I got this unit a few days ago, the previous owner told me it appears to have overheated. As I dismantled it I found a lot of dirt and lint had almost clogged the blower and the drum was rubbing on a support at the front due to a front support bearing/slipper being out of place. After cleaning the dirt and lint out and fixing the drum support I plugged it in and started it up with no gas connected. It ran very smooth and did not appear to have any problems but still no heat when the propane is connected and turned on.
Is there another switch or fuse down at the motor that affects the circuits preventing the gas valve from turning on ? Any help that can be offered is greatly appreciated. Stumped in Illinois .
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