Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 11082822103 | AppliancePartsPros.com

The Sears site should have a parts breakdown.

I do not have a cross reference list for Kenmore to Whirlpool so I used the control board number in your unit to reference back to a Whirlpool model. Looks like it is close to a Duet unit (GEW9200)
The following is for that unit.

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

Here is a service manual.
http://appliancedigest.c...ic-dryers-service-manual
You have to join the site to download the manual but it is free and this is a very good site for manuals and other info for the appliance repair DIYer.

Did you check that the outside vent louvers open all the way?
Have yiou checked the output temperatures on the different settings?

Unplug the unit and disconnect it from the vent system.
Now try a run.
If it now dries OK odds are the vent system needs checking/cleaning.
Be sure to check that the louvers on the outside of the house open correctly.

If you do not want any lint in the house.
Take a pair of pantyhose.
Put one leg into the other and then attach this to the dryer's vent.
Leave enough room so the pantyhose can balloon out like a windsock.

Both the above will let you check the temperature and the air flow.

Note: The above is not recommended for gas dryers due to carbon monoxide concerns.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Could it be a faulty Hi-Limit thermostat and maybe the fuse too?[/COLOR]
Will not be the fuse as once blown it stays blown.
I doubt it would be the hi-limit. This is just a safety device that opens a a pre-set temperature and would be the same for low and high settings.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
What about the thermistor?[/COLOR]
Yes I would check the thermistor.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]One thing I have noticed is the dryer dries a lot better on low than it does high.[/COLOR]
This is very weird.
Does the exhaust temperature increase when on high? It should.
Does the air flow change between settings? It should not.

Are you sure that there is heat?

Try it on air fluff and high.

If there is no heat then it could be the heating element or the thermal fuse.

If there is heat then the most likely culprits are the thermistor or the control board.
I would start by checking the thermistor with a meter. Check it at the control board so that you also check the wiring to it.
Since the diagnostics checks the thermistor for an open or a short it is more likely to be the board but it is best to check the thermistor just to be sure it is OK.

If there is heat and it does not change then it could be a grounded element.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run all the time and the control board cannot regulate it.