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Joined: 12/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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I have the above model kitchen aid dishwasher. I recently had a repair tech out to replace the door switch although had I seen this forum I could have done it myself. The washer has once again stopped working. When the door switch was bad I still had lights on the display panel, now I have no light and no power.
I have been reading the forum here and other places and there has been discussion of the TCO Fuse possibly being the issue. I have removed the door paneling and located the fuse. However the wires coming off the fuse are different than what is being discussed on these forums. My unit has a beige wire going from the door switch to the CON2 connector on the main board and a black with white stripe going to the TCO Fuse which mates with a another black wire with white stripe mid wire that goes somewhere else.
The fuse kit I see online comes with the fuse and two wires with connectors that appear to have wire screws on them. This is nothing like what I have. All the boards I read say the wires MUST be replaced with the fuse. Any suggestions?
Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Did you check the old fuse for continuity or you are going to replace it just in case? Whirlpool (the manufacturer of your dishwasher) has redesigned this part. Thats why the wires looks different. It comes with the complete installation instructions. - The part number for the thermal fuse kit is AP3178588 Here are the break down diagrams for the Kitchen Aid dishwasher Model KUDS01FKSS0Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Thanks Gene! I don't have the tool to do the continuity test. I will check it at work on Monday. Not sure if this is the problem I just dont' know what else to check. Is there anyting else I should look at as being the problem? Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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Temporarily short the fuse with a jumper wire and check if the dishwasher now works.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Thanks richappy. I shorted the fuse and the LED lite sooo I guess the fuse is the issue. I will run the continuity test on the fuse tomorrow just to make sure. I was wondering though, is there something that could be blowing the fuse that may blow the new one when I install it? Or should I feel pretty confident the fuse is the issue? Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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I think the fuse blows at around 14 amps, last dishwasher I checked drew 9 amp with motor and heater on. I usually assume a power surge blew the fuse, and sometimes the heater or the motor will draw excessive current, best check with a amprobe.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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The new fuse worked. Thanks Gene and Richappy!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/26/2008(UTC) Posts: 12
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Well I thought it was fixed. The fuse blew again. Got through one load and it blew on the second. Anyone know what might be causing the fuse to blow? I thought this was to good to be true.
Thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
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I would buy an amprobe at Lowe's (worth the money) and temporarily short the fuse. Measure the heater current and motor current. Motor should be around 4 amp, heater around 3 amp. Post results.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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If there is nothing wrong with the current drawn by the motor and/or the heater then the water is too hot.
Gene.
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