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Fridge still not fixed...
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Model: FRT22RRHW1 Brand: Frigidaire Age: 5 - 10 years
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nyr900  
#1 Posted : Thursday, August 18, 2011 4:15:11 PM(UTC)
nyr900

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OK....so I read the post about what to check for this kind of problem... I even ordered a new defrost heater and timer. First off, I do not think it is the heater now that I got the new one. They both are showing about .27 ohms of resistance.... I also too the thermostat and put it in another freezer to check it, and it reads closed when it is frozen, as it should. As far as the defrost Timer, I have it, but i do not know where it goes or if this fridge even has one...

Here is what happened to my fridge... The freezer was cold and the back panel was packed with ice.... the refridge was warm, about 65 degrees... After it thawed out when I turn it on it seems as if everything is working well... This is why i thought it was the defrost heater, or possbly the t-stat or timer....What can I do now... any ideas?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, August 19, 2011 1:29:58 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FRT22RRHW1 Frg(v3) / Refrigerator | AppliancePartsPros.com

The .27 ohms is probably just a typo or you are mis-reading your meter. They are probably 27 ohms.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]As far as the defrost Timer, I have it, but i do not know where it goes or if this fridge even has one...[/COLOR]
This is a bit of a concern as you must get the correct timer for the unit and since you do not know if the ubnit has one I do not know how you got one.

The defrost timer is Item 23 in Section 3. looks like it is mounted on a bracket behind the kick pate.
Since the heater and defrost thermostat measure OK I would replace the timer.
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nyr900  
#3 Posted : Friday, August 19, 2011 3:51:50 AM(UTC)
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Dumb question I know...How do i remove the front kick plate?... When i took off the cover i can see that the area behind it is still pretty obstructed, does it involve removing the wheel casters as well?

Also when i ordered the timer and the heater i did get the right parts, however since the heater is reading 27 ohms and it is working. Should i replace it anyway since i already have the new heater now?? What is your recommendation.

What is the best way to see if the timer itself is infact faulty? is there a way to read something off of it? The whole fridge / freezer is off now for a couple days, so i cannot do the test to hear if it "sizzles" when i turn the screw.

Thank you again very much in advance!
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denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, August 19, 2011 6:12:23 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]Dumb question I know.[/COLOR]
It should pull straight off, following is the operators manual.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...Anderson/218926000en.pdf

[COLOR="DarkRed"]When i took off the cover i can see that the area behind it is still pretty obstructed, does it involve removing the wheel casters as well?[/COLOR]
I do not think so. Often just remove the two mounting screws but you may have to remove the mounting bracket to get to it. Be sure to unplug the fridge when doing this.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
Also when i ordered the timer and the heater i did get the right parts, however since the heater is reading 27 ohms and it is working. Should i replace it anyway since i already have the new heater now??[/COLOR]
I would not bother replacing it. Looks like it is a calrod heater and they are very reliable.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
What is the best way to see if the timer itself is infact faulty? is there a way to read something off of it? The whole fridge / freezer is off now for a couple days, so i cannot do the test to hear if it "sizzles" when i turn the screw.[/COLOR]
Basically you have done the check. If the heater and the defrost thermostat are OK then all that is left is a bad wire connection or a bad timer and the timer is much more likely.
There is one fault that you can check on the timer. Put marks (pen, pencil whatever) on the timer cam and the mounting bracket. Then check them an hour or so later if they still line up the timer is not advancing so the timer motor is toast and you need the new timer.
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nyr900  
#5 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:19:50 AM(UTC)
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Well... i marked the original timer, and it has been running for about 20 minutes and it seems to be moving..... back to the drawing board... what else would it be???
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denman  
#6 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 7:43:59 AM(UTC)
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Just because the timer rotates does not mean that the contacts actually close inside the timer so it may still be the problem.
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nyr900  
#7 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 8:08:55 AM(UTC)
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what should i do now... is there a way to check if the contact is closed???
it has been about an hour and ten minutes and it has moved about 1/6 of a rotation....
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denman  
#8 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 8:55:17 AM(UTC)
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I do not have a wiring diagram for this unit so cannot tell which wires go to the heater.

I thought you already had a defrost timer. If yes I would replace it.

Also if you can turn the cam and it never goes into a defrost cycle then the timer contacts are welded together and it need replacing for sure.
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nyr900  
#9 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 9:26:05 AM(UTC)
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I was able to turn the timer and it went into the defrost cycle.... i do feel like i heard a sizzling sound, or maybe i was just hopeful.... Either way i replaced the timer... it seems to be getting cool, but then again it was getting cool in the fridge before anyway... what should the temperatures be in freezer and fridge generally?
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denman  
#10 Posted : Saturday, August 20, 2011 9:58:15 AM(UTC)
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Freezer should be 0 to 5 degrees F.
Fresh food area should be around 40 degrees F.

Give it at least a day to get down to these temperatures.
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