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I had a service tech look at this washing machine and he said it was the transmission going out on this washer. I am not convinced that is is the case and wanted to double check.
Especially since, from what I read, I can get a new transmission, clutch and probably a lot of other parts for what he was going to charge and do. He said i needed to replace the whole drum as it was one unit?!?!
It does make some strange sounds. I ran the Quick Service Cycle test and it came back as PA. I ran some of the other tests too where it seemed to do just fine. I have seen the 'dc' code, but i think that was from the towels we were washing that caused me to start looking online before heading to the store.
I don't think this washer is ready for the junk yard.
Any help is appreciated.
Regards,
Mike
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“”He said i needed to replace the whole drum as it was one unit?!?!””A common response, don’t buy any parts for any issues until we exhaust all troubleshooting steps to get close too or nail down the fail point.“”I don't think this washer is ready for the junk yard.”” Tell me where I can pick it up JMike as an owner that has some hands on experience I can help you with the DC/UC unbalance errors, Outer Tub bearing rebuild these are fairly easy to fix/repair. You just need some basic DIY skills and if some down time can be tolerated. Control Board, Motor Controller troubleshooting is a bit more difficult and most often require known good parts swap to nail down the fail point.Motor and tranny have a 10 year warranty....and I can point you to a post on this forum where Whirlpool/Maytag sent an owner a complete Outer Tub for failed Tub Seal/Outer Tub bearings for free. When I tried it they shot me down in flames.......need an authorized Maytag repair service to validate........ OK I wasn’t going down that path. The subject is ND and as the Service Manual calls out that is the error code for No Drain. So if this is the issue let's see if I can help. If I don’t have a clue I will let you know and not waste your time.Questions first; 1. We may have a Stuck Pressure Switch contact, failed Drain Pump and or drain line restriction. I vote for Pressure Switch issue......but let’s troubleshoot.2. Do you have the FAV6800A/FAV9800A Service Manual? If not Google this ”16022808.pdf” and download the SM.3.Let’s get into Service Mode and turn on the Drain Pump with the Presoak key (see page 16 of the SM) and make sure all the water visible in the Wash Basket is drained out then turn off the Drain Pump and exit service mode or just press the Off key.4. Re-enter service mode then go to Board Functional Test Input Control Keys on page 16 of the SM.4.1 Observe the pressure switch signaling to the Control Board all three levels should read -0 for all three levels. ie pressWhites key for High Water Level, Colors/Jeans key for Medium Water Level and Bulky Items key for Low Water Level. With no water in the wash basket all three levels should indicate -0…….do they?Just a note My Series 16 machine (1st two digits of your machines S/N) has two level pressure switch sensing. The Medium and Low level inputs to the Control Board are in parallel and toggle from -0 to -1 together. Caution if the pressure switch is not signaling properly to the Control Board I would not start a wash load and walk away because the machine could over fill and flood the laundry area. If the pressure switch is not signaling properly you could tap the housing and see if the contacts release. I would look at replacing the pressure switch. With the 120VAC unplugged from the washer try taping on the housing of the pressure switch and see if that clears the ND error code when you re-power up the machine.The Pressure Switch sits on top of the Drain Pump on the right rear side of the machine. There is no other access except from the front of the machine and it’s tight. The SM will guide you thru front panel removal.Good luck and shout out with any questions or concerns............Dickdh1200s attached the following image(s):
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I did the check for the water levels and all read -0 and _0, etc. I took off the pump thinking that something was in it and causing it to not turn on because i could hear it humming and trying to turn on.
After i got it back together i ran the service cycle tests and it completed fine and acted much better. Do i need to get a new pump as i probably am running on borrowed time. It has worked flawlessly through several loads today.
I am not sure what the tech was thinking with the tranny, etc.
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""did the check for the water levels and all read -0 and _0, etc.""
OK good.
""I took off the pump thinking that something was in it and causing it to not turn on because i could hear it humming and trying to turn on.""
I wonder if you had a impeller jam. That is your call for the replacement Drain pump. Working with many forum members on different DIY sites I have only seen one jam and one impeller free wheeling on the shaft.
The important issues for me would be the pressure switch was not stuck or intermit in operation. On a water fill cycle if it did not function as designed it would flood the house.
On your initial ND error was there water in the wash basket?
Did you tear down the Drain Pump and inspect the impeller when you removed it?
I have some internal pics. I'll add to the post tonight when I get home..........Dick
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My daughter just ran a small load that threw the "nd" code. So i am back to where i started...darn!
I was wondering what this pressure switch does and was about to search the internet when i saw your response. I don't want a flooded house so how do I determine if this is the problem or not? Does it control when the pump kicks on and off? I haven't seen it fill or come close to overfilling. In fact, i wonder if the problem only happens with small loads?
I did not tear down the pump that far. i just turned the impeller with my finger and flushed water through it.
I appreciate the help.
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From my last question …..On your initial ND error was there wash water left in the in the wash basket? If so how much.Here is what happens during the wash cycle when the machine Control Board enters into a Drain Cycle. It’s looking for pressure switch transition feed back to tell the control board OK I’m satisfied and there is enough water removed from the wash basket/tub to continue the wash cycle.I can take all three of my FAV6800A’s a Series 10, 16 and 17 and cause the ND error code to trigger. I raise the washer top from the base and force the Drain Line to empty back into the wash basket during a normal wash/drain cycle. After several minutes the Control Board says HEY I don’t see a pressure switch transition during the normal time allotted so I’m going to Stop the wash cycle and send a ND error code to the Console for owner intervention. I did this a very long time ago just to get a feel for time required to generate a ND error code in a controlled condition. So what is your problem……again when your machine triggers the ND error code for No Drain is their wash water left in the wash basket? If so then there is a Drain Pump failure to pump the water out or there is a drain line restriction or a combo of both.If the pressure switch is stuck during the water fill cycle you will have a mess. I only point that out as a possible concern because I don’t know what is causing your ND error code............. is a stuck pressure switch causing the ND error code??? Again we need to know is there any wash water left in the wash tub when the ND error code is signaled by the Control Board during the Wash/Drain cycle.I don’t want to panic you for possible over fill/flood scenario………just be aware until we nail down the ND error code issue/fail point. We can test the drain pump/drain line flow rate with this test in Service Mode. Start a Bulky Items wash then enter into Service Mode and watch for the Hi Water Level fill transition in service mode to toggle from -0 to -1. I just want you to get a feel for pressure switch signaling to the Control Board. Once that happens the water valves are turned off by the Pressure Switch. If that fails to happen we have a flood if left unattended. Once we take the pressure switch transistion for the Bulky Item/Hi water fill the water inlet valve is turned off. Now turn the machine off with the Off key pad. Enter into Service Mode and turn on the Drain Pump it should take around about 40 seconds to empty the wash tub. You can release the washer top from the base and watch this. The Service Manual will show you how to release the washer top from the base.Let’s see how long it takes the Drain Pump to dump the water out let us know the how long it takes. My machines take about 40 to 45 seconds to pump the wash basket out…… no water seen in the wash basket with a High Level fill caused by the Bulky Item wash selection……. Its about 7.5” to 8” of water in the wash basket. If you can empty your wash basket/tub in about the same time then you should not trigger the ND error code. If you can’t then we need to look for the issue………drain line restriction or problem with the drain pump or a combo of both. As you know it’s a tight area to work in.I'll post some pics with my Drain Pump opened up. You may need to pull it apart and inspect the impeller and see if it is freewheeling on the motor shaft and check the drain line for a possible issue starting at the Sump Cap to the input Drain Pump then out of the Drain Pump thru the Drain LineI’ll also post a pic of some crap I had in my Sump Cap. A bank card but it did not cause a ND error code. So it might be good to remove the Sump Cap and inspect. With the output hose disconnected from the Sump Cap you twist CW to release it. If you remove it watch you don’t pinch the O-Ring on reinstall. Sorry for the long post……….Dickdh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Thanks for all the information. I was able to get the -1 to show during the service mode, so I think that we don't have a pressure switch issue. Agree?
The water that is left was about 4". Just a little less then the clothing in there, but i now i can't get it to pump out the water at all.
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Mike,
“”I was able to get the -1 to show during the service mode, so I think that we don't have a pressure switch issue. Agree?””
Not yet from the info provided that amount of water in my view would cause the Pressure Switch to indicate a true -1 so I feel the pressure switch is working as designed.
“”but i now i can't get it to pump out the water at all.””
So you can’t dump the water in Service Mode by turning on the Drain Pump?
If that is the case did we lose 120VAC to the Drain Pump?
If you can’t turn on the Drain Pump in Service Mode we need to determine if we have lost 120VAC to the Drain Pump. That will be difficult with no real access to the 120VAC input to the drain Pump.
I don’t like to order parts without getting closer to the fail point but that is your call. I would like to know;
Are we losing 120VAC to the Drain Pump from the Control Board
Will the Drain Pump out the wash basket/tub with High water fill in the time I described. If you can’t turn on the Drain Pump in Service Mode then that test is moot.
Might be time to pull the Drain Pump out of the machine and if you feel safe/comfortable with it on the work bench run it with a 120VAC cheater cord to make sure the Motor spins up.
See if you check that the impeller is not freewheeling on the motor shaft. You may have to disassemble the Drain Pump to check that. I’ll check my used spare Drain Pump when I get home tonight to see if that is possible.
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Originally Posted by: mikejames  Thanks for all the information. I was able to get the -1 to show during the service mode, so I think that we don't have a pressure switch issue. Agree?
The water that is left was about 4". Just a little less then the clothing in there, but i now i can't get it to pump out the water at all. Mike, Sorry I misread the above before and I agree you don't have a pressure switch issue. I filled my wash basket/ tub until the pressure switch toggled for low/med fill and it measured 4.5” of water in the wash basket. As I mentioned before my Series 17 has two level sensing. That -1 pressure switch transition reading took place for the Bulky Items and Color Jeans key pad press. So is the Drain Pump getting 120VAC from the Control Board? It looks kind of difficult to get in there and measure. Do I understand that you can't turn on the Drain Pump in Service Mode?
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