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"Squealing" after the motor control board output test
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Joined: 7/20/2011(UTC)
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Hello, we're having a problem starting a load of wash and it not finishing. Somewhere in mid cycle it just stops. After a few moments you can hear the motor start up again, then stop after a few seconds. It will do this over and over aagain for hours.I performed the motor control board output test and got a heck of a squeal. I took of the clutch and inspected, cleaned a lubed, didn' see any reason of concern there. Before I continue to take this thing apart thought I would ask around and see if anyone has seen this before. Is there a bearing issue with the tub? Any help would be appreciated.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
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When you dropped the Clutch Pulley did your series use the Upper One-Way bearing ring? I need to know that …………..See the pic's below. Do you feel the squeal you heard was the Drive Belt slipping on the Motor Pulley? If so this could be caused by a seized Upper One-Way bearing. Pull the front cover off if it isn’t already from the removing the Clutch Pulley and observe this action…… Place the machine in a Spin Only Cycle and see if it runs the Spin Only cycle with the wet wash load and report back. Does the Spin Only Cycle complete or do you see the machine try to start the Spin Only Cycle and start/stop.....start/stop? Note in Spin Cycle the Control Board signals the Motor Controller to power/spin the Clutch Pulley CCW the Spin direction. In wash/agitate the Drive Motor will spin the Clutch Pulley CW. ""Before I continue to take this thing apart thought I would ask around and see if anyone has seen this before. Is there a bearing issue with the tub?”” Was the squealing you heard sound like bearing noise/squeal? We need to drill down a bit closer to the fail point but these machine at 6yr+ cycle life are ready for a Tub Seal replacement and I would do a complete Outer Tub bearing rebuild. Sounds bad but you seem handy and from what you have done with Clutch Pulley removal/clean up & replacement I feel is doable by you.I don’t want to get too far ahead of the process and scare you into trashing your $1K machine. I have helped a number of FAV6800A/FAV9800A owners thru the process……….see this link FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacementBut let’s troubleshoot and nail down this issue first ““After a few moments you can hear the motor start up again, then stop after a few seconds.”” .................Dickdh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
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Thanks for the responce. Yes its a one way clutch. And I do believe it was the belt sqealing on the pully. So i would agree with you the bearing is no good. I ended up breaking the spring in the old one anyways. New one will be hear Tues. I'll ckeck back here if it doesn't solve the problem. Quick question: That clutch seems to be a bad design. CCW tightens the spring, but those nobules on the white plastic cap that fits up in two slots turn what? I know one way is turning the disks inside and the other way is turning the tub but.... Oh by the way, had the tub out and was able to rotate tub freely by hand. I pretty sure I can do the seal replacement, now would be a good time, I suppose. Thanks again!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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“”That clutch seems to be a bad design.”” Yep!””but those nobules on the white plastic cap that fits up in two slots turn what?”” That Upper Bearing ring is stationery locked into the Tub notches. The One-Way bearing in that Upper Bearing ring is pressed in to allow the Spinner Support to Spin CCW freely. If it seized the Star/Stop sequence you describe seems to be a classic failure description for that One-Way bearing. The Control Board has no idea/fault code to fail out too for that failure issue.
“”CCW tightens the spring”” That is correct the One-Way bearing in the Clutch Pulley Hub (this type of bearing http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/One-Way-Bearings/Kit8640) is supposed to lock up with CCW rotation of the Clutch Pulley and rotate what I call the Spinner Shaft coupler CCW (my name for it) thus driving the Wash Basket CCW the Spin direction. See the Pic I put together for a sort of exploded parts view/naming see pic below.
Once you enter into the Spin Cycle the Drive Motor will rotate the Clutch Pulley CCW and the Large Wrap Stainless Steel spring will be brought under tension. Once it is brought under tension the Wash Basket will begin to spin CCW....... if there is no bearing issues i.e. Upper Bearing ring and Outer Tub bearings are not seized. The wash basket should never rotate CW.
Anyway when you get your new Clutch Pulley I strongly recommend you re-lube the both One-Way bearings, the Upper Bearing ring and the One-Way bearing in the white bearing plate of the Clutch Pulley with Slick-50 One lube. I would use no grease of any type. I feel grease attracts containments.
Once you get your new Clutch Pulley go to this link Maytag Neptune load unbalance Go to #9 perma linkand do the test I describe before you re-lube the replacement Clutch Pulley assembly One-Way bearings, see if they lock up correctly in both bearing assemblies.
You will need to do a Tub Seal replacement and maybe some additional Outer Tub bearing replacement work if you want to keep your $1K machine.
I feel if you DIY the work the cost is reasonable if you can deal with some down time. Just follow my post from my 1st response and shout out if you have any questions. I’m no expert just an owner with basic mechanical skill sets. You can make this machine last a long time with some maintenance.
Good Luck…………Dick
dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
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WOW.....After inspecting the old clutch (waiting on the new one) I didn't realize at first there was two bearings ( as dipicted by your first photo). The upper bearing is completly seized. Now it makes more sense to me how these things work, when before I thought it could only spin in one direction. Still a bad design though.
I must have a slight leak in the tub seal cousing this bearing to seize. So I'm definetly replacing seals a bearings in the tub also. I'll check out your link on the "how to" here shortly. You've been a big help, I appreciate you time here, but you might not have heard the last of me......Thanks!!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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""The upper bearing is completly seized.""
Yep that was causing the Stop/Start cycling. The firmware in the Control Board has no routine to monitor/time out for a failure of that type. Just one of those failures not seen by the Maytag Eng. team during development.
""I must have a slight leak in the tub seal cousing this bearing to seize. So I'm definetly replacing seals a bearings in the tub also.””
Yep that is the long term fix and you will be good till the next failure as with all machines discussed on this forum. The One-Way bearings in the Clutch Pulley assemblies have caused a lot of owner’s grief and many FAV6800A/FAV9800A machines have gone to a real early grave for a very easy/cost effective fix if you DIY. Mine failed at the 3.5yr mark causing the famous DC/UC unbalance errors. I almost trashed the machine then I started digging in.
Once you get into the machine and understand how it works troubleshooting and DIY work become a bit easier. Some failures require electronic parts to be swaped out to help nail down the fail point for. I keep an eye open for any parted out machines for Main Control Board, Motor Control Board, Console, TDS etc. The Clutch Pulley, OuterTub/Spinner bearings, Tub Seal and Tranny O-Ring are purchased new.
“”I'll check out your link on the "how to" here shortly.””
Yep take a look at you new Clutch Pulley and spend a few minutes to understand how both the One-Way bearings work and make sure they Lock UP Rock Solid before installing the new Clutch Pulley and Upper Bearing ring. I again recommend a re-lube with Slick 50 One Lube before installing the new Clutch Pulley/Upper Bearing ring.
Good Luck and if I can help just chime in………….Dick
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Rank: Member
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Alright Dick, four bolts to remove transmission but it's not coming out to easily, what could be cousing this? Don't want to break it after all this. Am i missing something? SM is too vague. But i'll keep trying.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: dolfdave  Alright Dick, four bolts to remove transmission but it's not coming out to easily, what could be cousing this? Don't want to break it after all this. Am i missing something? SM is too vague. But i'll keep trying. I have to leave for work asap. Will check back in shortly... The SM should get you thru tranny removal. You are at page 40 in the SM step 5? If so you have the tumbler bearings removed correct? If so after removing the 4 tranny bolts it should lift out.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 11
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Tranny is out. Two pairs of vicegrips and some rocking back and forth did the trick. Now if I can get that 1 3/4 in. nut off without the maytag tools. Any suggestions? How bout a socket and an impact, then find a way to hold the hub in side.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/7/2009(UTC)
Posts: 460
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Are you following this thread FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement ?I used my 1/2 inch air impact to remove the 1.75" Spinner Nut. Follow the suggestions in the above thread and that should get Spinner Support out. If you have the Outer Tub out sitting upside down when you remove that 1.75" Spinner nut the Spinnner Support will fall out and hit the deck hard. There are other helpful hints in this thread FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement Like remove the old sleeve from the Spinner Support before installing the new Tub Seal. You might want to start posting in thet thread. I'm around it just may take me several hous to post back at times.........Dick
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