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Showed my husband your posts... He took part out went to radio shack spent 1.61 had friend solder it on... Now oven is beaming with light.. reads beautifully. I bought the 177.00 part before I found this blog so now am in process of sending part back. Just want to thank you so much for saving me big bucks!!
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Originally Posted by: ovenfixed  Showed my husband your posts... He took part out went to radio shack spent 1.61 had friend solder it on... Now oven is beaming with light.. reads beautifully. I bought the 177.00 part before I found this blog so now am in process of sending part back. Just want to thank you so much for saving me big bucks!! Ovenfixxed, Thanks for the update. Sounds great, and inexpensive, to boot. It'll come in handy in the future. Thanks Again, Good Luck, :D :D :D
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Another question.
Do you have a schematic of the relay conroller pcb AP4008573?
The voltage is 13.2vdc not 12vdc. Maybe another cap is bad?
I'm getting an intermittent problem with the oven lower element coming on.
I have not ohmed it out yet, but it was replaced 2 or 3 years ago.
If I wiggle the element it sometimes starts to work.
I also hear a hi pitch freq coming from thr controller pcb. the element will not work in this condition.
Any thoughts.
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Originally Posted by: suchru10 Another question.
Do you have a schematic of the relay conroller pcb AP4008573?
The voltage is 13.2vdc not 12vdc. Maybe another cap is bad?
I'm getting an intermittent problem with the oven lower element coming on.
I have not ohmed it out yet, but it was replaced 2 or 3 years ago.
If I wiggle the element it sometimes starts to work.
I also hear a hi pitch freq coming from thr controller pcb. the element will not work in this condition.
Any thoughts. Suchru, We have no schematic for a printed circuit board. the manufacturer doesn't supply that information to us. It sounds like you could have a loose connection in the wiring to the element, in the back of the range, and it could be the cause of the high pitched frequency noise from the control panel. I would not think a 1.2 volt difference would be a problem, in most cases, the manufacturer builds in a minimum 10 % varience in circuits to compensate for possible circuit and voltage spikes. I think you'll be alright, once you find and take care of the loose connection. :) :) :)
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So... can you show me EXACTLY where "C3" is located so if I can get the 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap from Radio Shack I can fix my wife's range?
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Originally Posted by: hkevinbarnes So... can you show me EXACTLY where "C3" is located so if I can get the 100 micro Farad 50 or 100volt electrolytic axial lead cap from Radio Shack I can fix my wife's range?[/q
It will be printed on the circuit board C3 the tall cap by the plug
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Suchru,
We have no schematic for a printed circuit board. the manufacturer doesn't supply that information to us. It sounds like you could have a loose connection in the wiring to the element, in the back of the range, and it could be the cause of the high pitched frequency noise from the control panel. I would not think a 1.2 volt difference would be a problem, in most cases, the manufacturer builds in a minimum 10 % varience in circuits to compensate for possible circuit and voltage spikes. I think you'll be alright, once you find and take care of the loose connection.
:) :) :) It was the Controller PCB
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Originally Posted by: suchru10 It was the Controller PCB Great, Glad you were able to get your range up and running. Great job, we hope all goes well for you. Thanks for the update. Good Luck and Thanks, :) :) :)
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