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Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum (and fixing appliances) and need some help. I have a Maytag Neptune TL who's motor control board just went out. I ordered up a new board but for the life of me I can't figure out how two of the three wiring harnesses that connect to the control board are supposed to disconnect from it. One of the three has the simple squeeze type clip that just pops right off but the other two don't seem to have anything accessible on the plastic clip to disconnect them from the board! I'm usually pretty good with handyman type stuff but I can't figure these clips out. About halfway down this page is a pic of what the side of the control board looks like with the wiring harnesses: http://www.fixya.com/support/t4...aww_just_stops_agitatingThanks in advance! -Bart
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Rank: Member
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Hey Bart,
The upper plug is the 120VAC power plug with the release latch.
The other two will just pull/slip out of the brownish rust colored connector housings on the Motor Control board. The female connetors just plug into those plug housing connetors with no latching release/catch, just a friction fit from what I remember. Notice the slots cut out on the printed circuit board for the those plug connetors.
What were the symptoms/troubleshooting steps that took you to a failed motor controller? This could also be an issue with Control Board in the Console. With no known good spares at hand it can be difficult to troubleshoot to the fail point. But throw that Motor Control Board in and lets see if it will restore machine operation.
Good luck and let us know how it goes……….Dick
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Rank: Member
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Thanks for the quick reply! At first I was hesitant to even take the washer apart but when I got going on it it seemed pretty easy. I found the service manual online and did some of the trouble shooting things found in there. I disconnected the JP4 connector and couldn't get the motor control to do anything with the motor control tests while in service mode. In service mode I can get the main control board to turn on the pump, lock the lid and everything else but turn on the motor. I get 120v at the wires going TO the motor control board also. The belt on the bottom looks to be fine and I can turn the drum with one finger no problem. Soooo, base on all that I figured the most logical and cheapest fix to try first would be the motor control board. I found a used (and supposedly working) one on ******** for $49. I can't believe they want $250+ for a new one! I'll let you know if it works. -Bart
Also, I just noticed that I clicked magic chef instead of maytag...haha
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Rank: Member
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""I get 120v at the wires going TO the motor control board also"" Good deal Bart rock solid troubleshooting. Just to let you know in all of the many post across 5 forums I have posted in I have near seen a failed Drive Motor. Guess that's why the 10 year warranty on it. Once you are back up and running I recommend surge protection on the 120VAC service outlet the machine is plugged into. I'm in the country with rock solid earth grounding at the mains but believe in that extra measure of protection. I mentioned a possible failed Console Control board with possible loss of PWM digital signaling to the Motor Control board but as I mentioned throw the Motor Control Board in and see if you can return to service. I have three machines the original is a series 16 and local buys on a series 17 and series 10 plus a collection of spare parts picked up from parted out machines dirt cheap. The Series 10 machine is used as a test machine. Search DH1200s in this forum and you will find my post for other machine issues. These machines are also ready for an Outer Tub rebuild with Tub seals failing and Outer Tub bearings and Spinner Support bearings ready for replacement. Once you get the machine back up and running take a peak at this thread FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement . Don't be scared off by it. Anyone with basic skill sets and a desire to save the machine can repair any machine issue with a little guidance. Having a couple spare parts helps also. Good luck............Dick
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Rank: Member
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So, turns out the new motor control board I just put in fixed my issue! Sure felt good to have just a $50 fix! One more question for you Dick, from the moment we bought this washer (used) about a year ago each cycle gets down to about 11 minutes left where it's about to go into the spin cycle and then it gives the dL (distribute load) error. The only fixed I've found for this is to either move the clothes around and add a few clean towels to the washer or just use the "bulky items" option which takes forever to clean the clothes. From searching the forums it sounds like this is a known issue but there aren't many answers out there. What's your opinion on this? Thanks, Bart
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Rank: Member
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Bart, With that DL error code do you take any wash tub banging around as you enter into Spin Cycle? Have you taken any unbalance error codes such as DC or UC at the beginning of Spin Cycle.The most common issue with the machine (at 6yr+age) is wash water leaking thru the Tub Seal and possibly the Tranny O-ring. This contaminates the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearings in the Clutch Pulley and the Upper Bearing Ring if used in your series. This results in slippage of the One way bearing in the Clutch Pulley Hub with continous DC or UC unbalance errors. This can be followed by the Clutch Pulley One-Way bearing sezing to the Spinner Support Shaft coupler.Read thru to the fix action in this post. Maytag Neptune load unbalance I describe the One-Way Clutch bearing action in this post and how to remove the Clutch Pulley for inspection. I would drop out the Clutch Pulley and see what condition it is in.I have only seen a few Motor Control Boards ever replaced in the FAV6800A or FAV9800A machines across 5 forums I have posted in……gotta be close to a thousand post . It seems Maytag design matched it and the Drive Motor well. So my question is what took out the Motor Control Board?Dick
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Rank: Member
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Sorry Dick but yeah it's actually the DC code that I get not DL, my mistake. I'll have to take a look at the thread you included and see what I can find out. As far as the old motor control board goes and what went wrong with it, I didn't find any moisture on it or anything strange except for one very small blemish on the round gray "thing" that sticks off the board (maybe a resistor or capacitor?) and looks like a very small burn mark maybe 2-3mm in size. The new board I ordered doesn't have that mark on it so I can only guess that that may have been the issue.
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