This may help : http://www.applianceaid.com/ArcticaSxSfrig2.html#defrost

If you have not replaced the back panel in the freezer, that is why your temps are where they are. That panel must be on for proper airflow.

I replaced the rear freezer panel after I repaired the heater.

This morning the fridge temp is steady at 50 degrees, 10 degrees above norma. This is where it was when I first started having problems...things are not as cold as they should be and I even have the knobs up to 9 (max).

What now?

Again, I pose the following questions:

Question: If things don't return to normal after replacing the defrost heater, what then? How many days should you wait? AFter replacing the defrost heater and before installing the back panel and shelves, what should I look for as a sign that the defrost heater is or isn't working?
Did I replace the defrost heater for nothing?

What's the probability that I need to also change the:
a) defrost timer
b) defrost thermostat or
c) the main board in the rear?

I read something on another website that said most freezers have an every 4 hour defrost cycle. If the cycling isn't working is it then the timer?

Where do I go from here?

Where do I get a tech sheet?

I've replaced the:
1. defrost heater
2. main board
3. defrost thermistat
4. defrost sensor

And the freezer is still building up frost on the evaporator coils.
I don't know why but the moment I put that so called new defrost heater on I felt it wasn't working because nothing happened...no warming nothing.

When I defrost the rear of the freezer with the blow dryer, replace everything, the cold air comes through the damper just fine without any problems. Then after about 3-4 days, the frost begins to build up on the rear panel and the buildup slowly decreases the amount of cold air flowing up through the damper.

If I purchased a voltage reader (about $12.00) what exactly would I be looking for? How would I check the defrost heater itself if there are no actual wires other than the ones that you plug into it.

I have the dual heater and I'm wondering if it's not working due to having to plug the wires into the right side...I know that shouldn't make a difference if that's what the instructions tell you to do ...

Now, I'm starting to see water build up at the bottom of the fridge and this has not been happening since I've been making all the parts changes.

1. What else could I possibly check for?
2. Does this fridge/freezer have a timer?
3. I accidentally dropped two screws into the drain under the defrost heater (this was after the problems started) and I'm wondering if that is playing a roll in anything? I pulled out the dairy section at the bottom of the fridge and peeked in and the water reserviore (the white/somewhat clear S shaped plastic water holder) hanging on the rear was dripping as if it had a leak. I'm thinking this may be somehow connected to so many defrosts causing too much water to flow into the reserviore pan.

4. Do you have directions for checking the water pan under the fridge...how do I reach it and check to see if the screws or dust or anyting for that matter is clogging it? Could that possibly be causing any problems.

I'm getting frustrated.

Water frozen in the insulation in the door is now melting due to the warmer freezer temperature.
Pull your back freezer panel off and describe the frost pattern.
If all frozen, remove the motherboard cover in back of the refrigerator and pull off the lower left connector. The pc board will have pins labled line and defr.
Stick a jumper wire into the removed connector between line and defr. pins.
Now plug in the refrigeraor and check if the freezer heater turns on.
If not, you have a bad heater or defrost thermostat, replace both.
If defrost, replace the motherboard.
Your motherboard initiates defrost as a function of the freezer thermistor, if still no defrost, replace the freezer thermistor even if you replaced it before, may have cracked from the ice.