Problem: The heating coil is getting way too hot when the fabric setting is low, medium, or high. There is no heat (as it should be) when the setting is "air fluff". All 3 heated settings are getting the same temperature, which is hot enough that I'm sure it will blow the thermal limiter (again) if I leave it on.

After this problem blew the thermal limiter the first time, I replaced the thermal limiter, high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat and dryer timer (the timer wasn't shutting off prior to all of this). This did not fix the problem.

I put a multi-meter on the fabric selector switch to check each setting and noticed that the switching was closed/opened correctly when the setting was no-heat or high. It was NOT correct (everything was closed) when the setting was medium or low, so I replaced it. This did not fix the problem.

I'm completely baffled at this point. I've noticed that when I Ohm check the heating coil that it's reading 10 Ohms resistance. Is this correct? I was expecting no resistance since it appears to be nothing more than a wire, but perhaps that small resistance is how it gets hot. Note, I'm not an EE or anything of the sort. I know electrical basics from building a house with my father, and some course work when completing a computer science curriculum.

Also, is there some other point in the chain that sends electricity to the coil that I have missed? As far as I can tell, I've replaced everything that controls how much juice gets sent to the coil. I thought the thermostats were supposed to cycle (as in turn-on/cut-off) the flow to the coil, but that isn't happening. It goes on, gets glowing red hot (too hot), and doesn't cut off. I'm sure if I left it on too long that it would blow the thermal limiter again. Is there something I can check with a multimeter? Should I get out Thor (my sledgehammer) and teach this stubborn dryer a lesson?

I've put a lot of money in to this already and I really need some help.

Thanks for the fast response. When I read that I thought the coil must be it, that it wasn't isolated. But... it is. It still checks out at close to 10 Ohms and when disconnected as you stated, it shows infinite resistance (open) between either end of the coil and any part of the frame, etc. Right now I'm wondering if the drum is somehow contacting it when it's in place, so I'm going to clip leads on the ends of the coil and get the drum back on to test that. I don't see how it could be touching the drum, but I'm completely out of ideas.

Update: Nothing is making contact with the drum when it is in place. It reads wide open between either end of the coil and the drum/frame/everything.

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FLSE72GCSA Frg(v1) / Laundry Center | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram. It sounds like you have it but I want to be sure we are both looking at the same thing.
http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Webster/131780200.pdf

I would check the thermostat heater (Item 14 in Section 2), should be around 10,000 ohms. This adds heat to the thermostat in medium and low so it cycles more often resulting in lower main heater output.
Be sure to disconnect one side of it when measuring. This ensures that you do not read an alternate/parallel circuit path.

The problem is that the above does not explain why it is too hot during the high temperature setting as the thermostat heater is disconnected when on high.

Check that the drum seals and blower seals are OK.
My thinking here is that the blower sucks air over the heating coil, through the drum, into the blower and then pushes the hot air out the vent. If it is sucking in cold room air then the cycling thermostat would see a cooler temperature and never cycle off.

The thermo-heater checked out, so I used a cigarette to smoke check for leaks. The seal around the drum and blower intake leaked like a sieve. Since smoke was going right through the soft foam blower intake, I covered the external part of the foam with duct tape. Not exactly elegant, but it works.

It turns out there are plastic lifters that hold the drum in the correct position (glued to the felt seal on the top in 3 spots) and these had broken off a long time ago, apparently. So, I fashioned new ones using plastic from the top of Tidy-Cat Litter tub snap-on lids. Super Glued in place, these have closed up what was a very large gap (almost 1/4") between the bottom of the drum and the felt seal. The plastic "manifold" between the dryer door and the blower was also cracked with age in a few spots. I fixed the leaks there with JB weld.

Voila! It works now. So it was what you suspected in your last post denman. It was pulling in air from the gaps, instead of pulling air over the heating coil.

On a side note, a guy that owns a local appliance and AC repair business is hiring me for part time work now. He tried to help me figure this out and was at a loss just like I was. After seeing me go through the learning process I needed to do washer/dryer repair I told him I could use a little extra income. A nice ending to the story eh?

you the Man,Denman,thanks for good intel