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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.
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Originally Posted by: amitgup  ...So if both the compartments are are room temperature, the evaporator motor would either not run or run very slowly... This is correct only if it happen right after the defrost cycle finished and the refrigerator was in dwell and post dwell periods. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
I have a GE GSS22JETACC,
I need some info on Thermistor resistance. I was checking the Evap thermistor, the freezer temp was reading +5 degrees F, the resistance was reading 4.5k. From the info I've read this is low for this temp, should be somewhere around 36k, the freezer section thermistor checked at 34.4k. Could this Evap coil thermistor need changing? I would assume that the Evap coil should read at least the same or higher resistance than the freezer
I'm having defrost problems. The Evap fan had gone bad a couple months ago, I replaced the fan, got a new defrost heater and replaced it as well, checked the defrost overtemp and it seemed fine(closed). I can jumper the defrost circuit at the plug and it will defrost the coil. It seemed to be working fine until a couple weeks ago, frig side started to get warm, pulled the panel and coil was iced up. I decided to replace the motherboard a couple days ago. I have yet to hear it defrost, no ice build up in the drain area, where there was always a small amount of ice that didn't drain. The only thing I had not checked until last night was the Evap Thermistor.
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Originally Posted by: wazocrowbar ...I was checking the Evap thermistor, the freezer temp was reading +5 degrees F, the resistance was reading 4.5k... The evaporator thermistor is bad. No doubt about it. Very likely this bad thermistor causing the evaporator not to defrost properly. You can find the thermistor values in the attached file. - The thermistor Part number: AP3185407
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I've read all 13 pages of the thread but am still a bit confused about my situation. I just got back from a week's vacation to find nothing frozen in the freezer but both it and the fresh food side to still be relatively cool. Before I left, there had been a humming sound coming from the freezer side below the ice maker. I did a little research and was prepared to change the evaporator motor when I returned. To confirm that this was the problem, I followed these diagnostics: GE Refrigerator Fan Motor DiagnosticsHowever, the evaporator fan actually started running when I followed that procedure, leading me to believe it's not the fan motor. The DC readings on my meter for the pins as described were inconsistent--sometimes jumping up to infinity and sometimes reading where they should and sometimes not moving at all. So I'm confused now. Any ideas? Model # is GSS22KGMDWW. Thanks in advance!
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I should note a couple of things in addition to my last post. First, I just realized I had set my meter incorrectly. The pins seem to read fine at the control board. Second, before I performed the checks at the control board via the link I posted, I actually started to disassemble the fan. Did my jiggling/moving it around jump start something? The fan is spinning happily and everything seems cold again. But I don't want to put the panel and other pieces back in if I really do need to replace the fan motor. Let me know what you think. THanks!
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You might have removed some stuff that was jamming the fan, or the fan motor has low starting torque due to a low voltage from the motherboard, or a mad motor. I would stop the fan from turning and feel if it has sufficient starting torque. Then check voltages from the motherboard per this article.
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Thank you, richappy.
This morning I left the doors open for a while to get the fan running because things didn't seem as cold as they should be. The fan wouldn't run. I finally got it to run by pushing it with my finger. Now it's running on its own and the voltages read correctly at the control board. When the fan isn't running, though, I don't get any voltage readings at the control board. Does this mean I have a bad board but not a bad fan? I know you need to replace the board if the fan is bad, but do you need to replace the fan if the board is bad? Thanks very much!
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Some other updates: I tested the pins at the fan connector itself and got appropriate resistance but no voltage reading. Then I plugged the connector back in and the fan started spinning happily. I'm not sure why it needed the jump start from my finger earlier because now it starts and stops on its own each time I plug and unplug the connector. As long as the fan is spinning the voltage at the board is appropriate. Also, I didn't mention this before, but since my return from the trip, there is no longer any humming sound coming from the fan area (this is what led me to think there was a problem to begin with). Were the humming sound and the temp drop a fluke or do I have a failing but not quite failed control board? Do I have to replace the fan if just the board is bad? Sorry to ask so many questions. Thanks for your help!!!
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Your motherboard has different modes of operation as a function of heat rate transfer need. It might be failing in one of the modes.
I would replace both the fan motor and the motherboard to prevent future problems.
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do you have a picture to show how are you testing it? thanks Originally Posted by: Gene Unplug the refrigerator before going further!
Disassemble procedure:
1. Remove the four ¼” ice maker bracket screws located at the four corners of the bracket.
2. Remove the two ¼” ice dispenser drive mounting bracket screws and remove the brackets.
3. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan ductwork screws.
4. Unlock the tabs and remove the lower evaporator fan ductwork.
5. Remove the four ¼” evaporator cover screws and remove the cover.
6. Remove the two ¼” upper evaporator fan duct work screws located at the lower portion of the ductwork.
7. Using a small flat screwdriver, unlock the tabs for the ice maker and dispenser cables.
8. Slide the upper fan ductwork out.
9. Disconnect the evaporator fan wiring harness.
To test the evaporator fan motor skip to the test procedure, otherwise proceed further.
10. Remove the ¼” screw for the evaporator fan ground wire.
11. Remove the two ¼” evaporator fan bracket mounting screws located at either side of the bracket.
12. Remove the evaporator fan assembly.
NOTE: The evaporator thermistor must be replaced when replacing the fan.
The evaporator fan motor test procedure:
1. Unplug the refrigerator to reset the main control board.
2. Warm up the freezer thermistor to 70°F and set the temperature controls to middle settings.
3. Reconnect the power.
4. Check for 13 VDC from the red to the white wire and between 8 to 13 VDC from the white to the yellow wire at the evaporator fan connector.
5. If there is correct voltage for both, then the evaporator fan motor has to be replaced.
6. If the voltage is incorrect, then the main control board has to be replaced.
7. If the voltage is incorrect, check the resistance between the white to the red wire and the white to the yellow wire. If it’s less than 1K ohm, the evaporator fan motor is shorted and has to be replaced.
Best regards.
Gene.
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GE refrigerators (GS* & PS* models), the evaporator fan motor test and replacement.
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