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bignmoval  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, June 8, 2011 5:12:58 PM(UTC)
bignmoval

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I replaced the spark module and the oven lit and worked for 1Hr. tried to get it to work again and all that happens is you hear one click from the control module no click from the igniter and gas valve not opening. took voltage reading from control module to spark module 118v.ac the stovetop burners work perfectly can someone please assist me??? thankyou.:confused:
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Thursday, June 9, 2011 7:03:04 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: bignmoval Go to Quoted Post
I replaced the spark module and the oven lit and worked for 1Hr. tried to get it to work again and all that happens is you hear one click from the control module no click from the igniter and gas valve not opening. took voltage reading from control module to spark module 118v.ac the stovetop burners work perfectly can someone please assist me??? thankyou.:confused:


Bigmova,

Make sure you have a properly polarized and grounded outlet.

Since you've already replaced the DSI module, You'll need to check the wiring and voltage to the DSI from the ERC, and from the DSI to the gas valve.
Check for 120 VAC at the DSI J1 connector from pin 6(red) to pin 4(white) in the bake mode.
Check for 120 VAC from pin 7 (blue) to Pin 4(white) in the broil mode.
At the gas valve/regulator assembly you'll need to check the resistance of the solenoids and DC voltage from the DSI
Remove the 3 wires from the the valve terminals, with your meter, check for 200 to 220 ohms resistance from orange(middle terminal) to red(bottom terminal) then from the middle terminal to the top terminal(blue) You have to have the same resistance on both tests.
Re attach the wires to the gas valve terminals and set your meter to read DC voltage.
Program a bake cycle, and check for 8 to 18 VDC from the orange terminal to the red terminal, program a broil cycle and check for the same DCV from the orange terminal to the blue terminal.
If you have all the correct voltage readings, no loose wires or connections, replace the gas valve regulator assembly.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)
bignmoval  
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 9, 2011 1:42:17 PM(UTC)
bignmoval

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:eek:Dear Joe/APP Team I'm assuming the ERC is refering to the main control module? I verified that the 118vac is at the DSI can I not test for the DC voltage at the DSI molex connector? thanks for your help:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, June 9, 2011 1:47:31 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Bigmova,

Make sure you have a properly polarized and grounded outlet.

Since you've already replaced the DSI module, You'll need to check the wiring and voltage to the DSI from the ERC, and from the DSI to the gas valve.
Check for 120 VAC at the DSI J1 connector from pin 6(red) to pin 4(white) in the bake mode.
Check for 120 VAC from pin 7 (blue) to Pin 4(white) in the broil mode.
At the gas valve/regulator assembly you'll need to check the resistance of the solenoids and DC voltage from the DSI
Remove the 3 wires from the the valve terminals, with your meter, check for 200 to 220 ohms resistance from orange(middle terminal) to red(bottom terminal) then from the middle terminal to the top terminal(blue) You have to have the same resistance on both tests.
Re attach the wires to the gas valve terminals and set your meter to read DC voltage.
Program a bake cycle, and check for 8 to 18 VDC from the orange terminal to the red terminal, program a broil cycle and check for the same DCV from the orange terminal to the blue terminal.
If you have all the correct voltage readings, no loose wires or connections, replace the gas valve regulator assembly.

Good Luck,

:) :) :)


Bigmoaval,

Did you have another question ?
Apparently it didn't post, could you try again.
:cool: :cool: :cool:
bignmoval  
#5 Posted : Thursday, June 9, 2011 1:57:52 PM(UTC)
bignmoval

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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
Bigmoaval,

Did you have another question ?
Apparently it didn't post, could you try again.
:cool: :cool: :cool:

Sorry I'm new at this posting thing please bear with me question was can I not check for the DC voltage at the molex connector Into the DSI?
Joe / APP Team  
#6 Posted : Thursday, June 9, 2011 2:39:28 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: bignmoval Go to Quoted Post
Sorry I'm new at this posting thing please bear with me question was can I not check for the DC voltage at the molex connector Into the DSI?


No problem,

I have computer problems as well, the IT guys keep telling me it's a U E problem, they can't repair LOL. :D :D

Yes, you can check for the DCV at the same wires on the DSI, But we're presuming the new DSI spark module is OK and is putting out the DCV.

We need to know if the DCV is getting to the solenoid terminals on the gas valve assembly, to activate them and release the gas to the burner/ spark igniter for ignition.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
bignmoval  
#7 Posted : Friday, June 10, 2011 5:32:33 AM(UTC)
bignmoval

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:confused:Joe m./APP team sorry to be so inquisitive but I have an other question
The main gas valve has 3 wires to it one common, one to the broiler terminal, and one to the oven terminal. If the DSI module is OK then shouldn't the igniter at least spark? or is there some kind of safety that prevents it from at least sparking if the gas valve doesn't open? thanks for your time
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
Joe / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Friday, June 10, 2011 8:12:41 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: bignmoval Go to Quoted Post
:confused:Joe m./APP team sorry to be so inquisitive but I have an other question
The main gas valve has 3 wires to it one common, one to the broiler terminal, and one to the oven terminal. If the DSI module is OK then shouldn't the igniter at least spark? or is there some kind of safety that prevents it from at least sparking if the gas valve doesn't open? thanks for your time
:confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:


Bigmoval,

Not to worry, I understand.

You're on the right track.

Here is the answer to your basic question( from the W/P technical training manual for the DSI spark ignition control system).

"The self test checks both solenoids on the gas distribution valve to verify that they are properly connected. If they are not, the control will turn the oven off, or lock it out. If the test is successful, the control will then open the appropriate valve, and initiate sparking at the burner ignitor. Both the bake and broil ignitors spark simutaneously. Sparking will not occur until the gas distribution valve opens."

In the previous posts, I explained how the 120 VAC from the ERC or igniter switches, enters the DSI control, and converts it to DC voltage.
If you don't have the 8 to 18 VDC returning to the DSI on the red or blue wire(s) the DSI will revert to the "lock out" mode and the oven burner will not ignite.

We pretty much know the DSI control is OK, the top burner igniters work, the oven burners spark, this would indicate a loose connection, open/loose ground, improper polarity, or an issue in the disribution valve itself.

It's most likely a mechanical failure, inside the disribution valve, and you'll need to replace it.

:cool: :cool: :cool:
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