Taes,

OK then, :( :( :(

Yes, we need to check all the red and black wires, to all the switches, make sure one didn't slip off the terminals.

If the wires are all attached and not damaged you'll need to get a multi meter, so you can test voltage into the new switch, voltage out the new switch, and element and sensor resistances.

You can perform all these tests from the wiring at the new switch,

Resistance checks at the 6 pin connector.
(using the red wire as pin#1 and the yellow wire as pin #6).

Unplug the connector from the switch, checking the wires in the connector,
From rd wire #1 to tn wire #5, you should read 34 to 37 ohms.
From rd wire #1 to yellow wire#6, you should read 38 to 42 ohms.
From wire#3 wht to wire#4 wht, you should read 1050 to 1100 ohms at room temperature.

Indications:
No resistance pin#1 to pin#5 = open outer element(bad element).
No resistance pin#1 to pin#6 = open inner element(bad element).
Anyother resistance than stated on pin#3 to pin#4 = bad sensor(bad element).

Voltage checks at switch wiring, and power supplied to the range.
(be careful, these are live voltage checks)

At the three wire connector,
Pin#1 blk and pin#3 rd, you should have 220/240 VAC (power into switch).

At the 6 pin connector,
On the low setting:
Pin#1 rd to pin#6 ylw, you should read 220/240 VAC (power out to inner element).
On high setting:
Pin#1 rd to pin#5 tn, you should read 220/240 VAC (power out to ouiter element.

Indications:
Three wire connector:
No 220/240 VAC across wire#1 blk and wire#3 rd= no voltage to switch(broken wire ?)
Six wire connector:
No 220/240 VAC across wire#1 rd and wire#6 = bad infinite switch
No 220/240 VAC across wire#1 rd and wire#5 + bad infinite switch

You'll have the problem diagnosed and repaired in no time.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)

Taese,

It sounds complicated , but it's only going to take you 10 or 15 minutes to find and repair or order the defective part.

The meter I reccomend is,

Part number: AP3873826

Taeseop,

Thanks for all the resistance readings, Great Job.

Your wire colors are different, but the pin locations in the connector are the more important part.

At this point you have an open burner temperature sensor,(pin 3 to pin 4 should have had 1050 to 1100 ohms resistance across the 2 wires in the connector) you may want to check the wiring for damage between the switch and the burner sensor.

If the wires are Ok and not damaged.

You'll need to order and install a new dual element burner,

If the first two numbers in the serial number on the production plate are 14 or less, you'll need part number

Part number: AP4100557

Kevin,

All the testing and access information is right here, attached to this post, you may have to start at pg 1 or 2.

You're on the right track, though. once you get the top disconnected, it's just a matter of flipping it over on a table with a pad and loosening a few screws and lifting the burner off the top. The most important part is labelling the wires as you remove them,(remove the wires one at a time) and making sure you install them on the labeled terminals on the new burner( 1a,1b,2a,etc. they may be in a different location on the new burner).

As for life expectancy, There are so many variables, it's hard to determine, everything from, the burner usage, most people use the right front burner on any stove. oversized pots & pans, boil overs and boil outs, voltage fluctuations, and a lot more.

You'll do fine,

Good Luck,

:) :) :)

Kevin,

Great !!!!

We're glad your up and running.

Down draft venting has always been a problem,sounds like yours was not as bad as others.

Great job.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)