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So, I have to ask something here. The fridge stopped being cold and was making a clicking sounds. Fan is running but the compressor does not seem to kick in. Brought in a service tech and his diagnosis was that we need to spend some big time money to replace the compressor unit. I told him I thought it might be the relay only based on my own experiences with it. But he told me that my fridge has a relay outside the compressor and the part that is broken is on the inside. The inside part is the overload protection part that is malfunctioning. So not feeling good about this, I opened up the back and see the 2 parts (I think) both of which are outside the compressor! My fridge says model #: MTB2156GE* This is a similar model but not the exact same one as the last letter in the model is an "E". The Whirlpool parts website has 4 models with the same # as mine. This is just one of them. Whirlpool Parts OnlineSo, how do I know if it's the relay or the overload switch or the compressor or all of them? At this point, what the tech told me was incorrect so I am not in a happy place. Any help would be appreciated.
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The compressor has NO internal parts like a relay. I would try a new start device AP4009659. Comes with complete instructions.
I would take a picture of the start device wiring, then remove. Test with a meter, or just shake it, if blown, it will rattle.
If the lights dim when it tries to start, you probably have a shorted compressor, not repairable.
If you have an amprobe, check the current draw.
Also, if he never put pressure gauges on it, he was just guessing about a bad compressor.
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Rank: Member
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DID anyone successfully wire the new AP4009659 Maytag Refrigerator Overload Start Relay Repair Kit wired properly? I have a Maytag MTB2156GEW that quit cooling, diagnosed as relay issue. Got new part but different. Read the post here but am still confused about how to wire. As not sure when the comment says left terminal is that looking from front or back of relay or also from top or from bottom view. Can someone please send me pictures of the correctly wired replacement part or the complete directions for wiring as my part had none. Fridge is dead and need help badly !! THANKS marlin92@verizon.net
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
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DID anyone successfully wire the new AP4009659 Maytag Refrigerator Overload Start Relay Repair Kit wired properly? I have a Maytag MTB2156GEW that quit cooling, diagnosed as relay issue. Got new part but different. Read the post here but am still confused about how to wire. As not sure when the comment says left terminal is that looking from front or back of relay or also from top or from bottom view. Can someone please send me pictures of the correctly wired replacement part or the complete directions for wiring as my part had none. Fridge is dead and need help badly !! THANKS marlin92@verizon.net
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
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You will need a meter to wire in the new parts if they are different from the factory part. I assume the old start device was a white box that just plugged in.
If you have no meter, you can still wire it up.If you still have the old start device, let me know so I can help.
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Rank: Member
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I need to know on the MTB2156GEW what wires go where. I had the recall tech come out and replace the overload/relay part 4SP1088. I could have sworne that the orange wires were connected to the top left point of the compressor. There are three connections on the compressor, two on top and one on bottom forming a V. The tech installed the seperate overoad onto the bottom connection of the compressor and attached a blue wire which I believe is correct. He then attached the relay to the top 2 pins on the compressor, with the little plastic tab on the relay pointing downward which again I believe is correct. He then attached the white wire from th old 4SP100 to the top left connection of the relay/compressor. Attached the little white extension wire to the top right of the relay/compressor connection and plugged it into the two orange wire pair. I want to know if the wires are connected properly. The reason I ask is the evap fan doesn't blow now it ran constantly until he did what he did. Now it won't run and it's been over 12 hrs and freezer is cold but not capable of freezing anything yet. The tech told me the evap fan won't come on till the freezer gets cold enough but wiring diags on the internet show it being wired in parallel with condenser motor and should run when the condenser motor runs but doesn't. As I said it ran before he did what he did and the fridge/freezer wasn't working then.
HELP
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The two evaporator motor wires are blue and orange. They get spliced together with the condensing fan motor. He probably did a bad splice job by the compressor, just check.
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Rank: Member
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No splices in wires.
Tested evap motor supplying seperate 115V supply and it won't run - so buying a new one tomorrow. Don't know if the tech could have caused it or not. But the motor was running up until the time I unplugged the fridge in prep for the service call, just strange that after he did his thing the motor is bad !! Still not sure about wiring of the relay here is a web site I found showing pictures of old relay and new replacement kit. You can clearly see that the ORANGE wire is connected to the top leaf of the old relay but in the discussion of the new replacement relay you can see the orange wires will be connected to the top right and not the top left as I would have expected. And this is how the tech wired mine - does the new relay work in a different manner than the old one and the plugging on the compressor doesn't matter I.E. not polarity sensative.
Still confused. Again if anyone could take time to send pictures of new relay installed so I can compare I would appreciate it.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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The two wires to the start device are not polarity sensitive, but the white wire usually goes to the overload device, the other one to the start device.
Make sure the tech wired or plugged in the run capacitor if your fridg had one.
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: richappy  The two wires to the start device are not polarity sensitive, but the white wire usually goes to the overload device, the other one to the start device.
Make sure the tech wired or plugged in the run capacitor if your fridg had one. I'm new to the site and I think I just jumped onto some one elses' questions. Please, all forgive me. I have a similiar problem. Have the above model and compressor. Lost electrical power when Hurr. Irene hit us. The compresor would not start when power was restored. Fan runs fine and as soon as the refrig. is plugged into the wall (I'm not sure if that is correct or not). I ordered and have the start capacitor and relay/overload part in hand. The cap replacement is straightforward but for the life of me I can't seem to get the relay device off of the compressor. Based on the new one it seems it should just pull straight out of the compressor, but darned if I can do that. Orange and white wires enter through a slot in what I think is a cover, but can't get thqat off either! I'm almost embrassed to say that I have some pretty decent electrical/electronic in my background so changing the relay device whouldn't be this hard, but is is!. Can someone tell me how to get the cover off and pull the relay?:mad:
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