Stan,

A couple of things to check and or replace, for your complaint.
Check and make sure your motor pivots and moves freely on the motor pivot plate.
Check the condition of the drive belt and possible damage to the drive pulleys.
Replace the thrust bearing pulley kit, it determines what the transmission does(agitate/spin) and must be properly adjusted.

Part number: AP4024823

Stan,

No, You won't need to remove the tub(s), those tub mounting bolts can be a "bear" to get out.

The reccomendations can be done from the front of the washer, or from underneath, just slide the machine out a bit and raise the front of the machine a few inches, so you can see and work with the components, you should have a couple of 2x4 or 4x4 blocks handy, to prop the unit up. You can also remove the front panel, to access the motor pivot plate.
(once you unplug the power cord, and move the unit out, with a putty knife inserted in the seam between the top and front panel, press in on the clips and lift up on the top, remove the 2 5/16" screws holding the front panel to the top brace, pull the top out an inch or so and lift the panel up and off the clips on the base.

You'll do fine.

Good Luck,
:) :) :)

Stan,

The adjustment is still off.
The brake should engage and stop the tub in 3 or 4 revolutuions, it should not "coast" to a stop.

You may have to remove the stator and brake rotor to see if it is hung up on the transmission housing shaft.

Try the re adjustment first.

I used to install bearing and washers on the pulley per the instructions.then take the cam and bottom washer, insert and adjust the cam until the groove for the "C" clip was barely visible,use a small blade srewdriver to pry down on the transmission shaft until the groove was visible and I could insert the "C" clip partially, then finish presing the clip into position with a pair of pliers or screwdriver.

To remove the stator/brake you'll need to remove 1 of the 1/4 inch screws from the stator and go to a hardware store and get 2 screws with the same thread and pitch size, 2 inches long. install the 2 scews in the stator, remove the remaining screws, then carefully back the longer screws out, until the tension is removed off the brake rotor spring. drop the parts out, clean the parts and the splined area they came off of and lubricate the splined area so the brake rotor moves free and easy. reverse the procedure to reinstall the components,

I think you'll get it this time,
:) :) :)

Stan,

The transmission is a sealed unit, It would be a possible problem, but doubtful.
Here'a how the Brake / Clutch assembly works,
(you may need to add a washer (from the old parts) to achieve the proper clearances.

The brake assembly is located inside the domed area of the suspension housing and consists of the following components:
brake spring retainer, brake spring, rotor and lining assembly, and
the brake stator. The brake assembly, as well as the snubber, is held in position by the brake stator which is secured to the underside of the
suspension housing by six (6) mounting screws. Spring pressure forces the rotor and lining assembly down on the brake stator and prevents the transmission from turning during agitation. As stated previously, the drive pulley and cams provide a cam action which raises the drive pulley during the counterclockwise (spin) direction of the motor. When the drive pulley hub travels upward, it compresses the brake spring and moves the rotor and lining assembly up the drive tube disengaging it from the stator. The transmission is now free to spin. Splines in the brake rotor hub mesh with splines on the drive tube end to provide positive vertical movement for the rotor and lining assembly. The splines are greased for ease of movement.

I'd try it one more time, before getting a transmission and the associated parts you'll need.

:) :) :)