dryer still wont hold heat and timer wont work - Appliance Repair Forum

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Model: WED5790VQ1	Brand: Whirlpool	Age: 1 - 5 years
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patricktk0		#1 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 1:22:53 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 4/18/2011(UTC) Posts: 5		dryer was bought in 2009,the heat was never dood in it.was told it was energy efficient lolwell i been up all nite cleaning the inside and put it back together and still only a lite heat. i dont have any way to check out and see if all is working does anyone have any ideas?? please help


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denman		#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 2:22:54 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638 Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)		Here are your parts Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL WED5790VQ1 29" ELECTRIC DRYER \| AppliancePartsPros.com See the attachment for the wiring diagram. Turn the timer to timed dry. Now does it work? If yes then you probably have a grounded heating element. The element has broken and is touching the case/frame so part of the element is heating up but only with 120 volts. In timed dry the timer motor gets power (240 volts) directly from the line. In auto modes it gets power through the heating element when the heater is shut off by a thermostat so for some reason it is not getting the voltage. Remove and check the heating element usually you can see the problem. Another way is to use a meter. Unplug the unit and both wires to the heating element. Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms. Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows. File Attachment(s): WED5790.pdf (127kb) downloaded 9 time(s).
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patricktk0		#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 4:16:13 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 4/18/2011(UTC) Posts: 5		Originally Posted by: patricktk0 dryer was bought in 2009,the heat was never dood in it.was told it was energy efficient lolwell i been up all nite cleaning the inside and put it back together and still only a lite heat. i dont have any way to check out and see if all is working does anyone have any ideas?? please help i tried the timer and still nothing.... i also took the heating element out and couldnt see anything broke so i plugged the dryer ib and half of the heater got hot the other half was warm??? i dont have a meter. thank you for your time... if you have anything else please let me know


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patricktk0		#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 4:28:11 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 4/18/2011(UTC) Posts: 5		i looked in my fuse box and theres only one breaker for the dryer.. there is a empty spot for a breaker for dryer does this mean anything?? the house was bran new when moved in thank you


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denman		#5 Posted : Tuesday, April 19, 2011 5:10:34 AM(UTC)
Rank: Advanced Member Groups: Senior Expert Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638 Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)		It should be a double breaker. It should take up 2 slots. Some take up two slots but only have a single rest lever. Others take up 2 slots with 2 levers but there is a metal rod between the levers so they are ganged together. How to Install a 240 Volt Circuit Breaker If you have an electric stove the dryer breaker should look like the stove breaker just a lower amperage rating. Something very weird here. If there was only half the line (120 volts) (which the breaker seems to point to) then there should not be any heat unless the heating coil is grounded. But you said you do get some heat. The heating coil runs off of 240 volts and the Neutral is not part of that circuit. Same goes for the timer motor. FYI: The power to a dryer is two 120 volt supplies that are 180 degrees out of phase. So one side L1 to Neutral is 120 volts and the other side L2 to Neutral is 120 volts but 180 degrees out of phase. So when L1 is positive 120 volts, L2 is negative 120 volts and therefore the voltage from L1 to L2 is 240 volts. Might be time to call an electrician.
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