Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/15/2011(UTC) Posts: 1
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I have read through many posts with similar problems. The freezer and fridge compartments will not cool. Compressor relay tries to start motor, then clicks off. I replaced the relay and overload protector, hoping that would be the problem, but to no avail. So, next, I pulled out the multimeter. I removed the relay from the side of the compressor housing and tested each prong on the compressor. Each pair tested at zero ohms. I also tested to see if there was continuity between the prongs and the housing, but the ohm reading was infinity. I scraped off the paint to get down to bare metal on the housing.
From what I have read, these tests indicate that the motor is OK. Am I missing something? Is there something else which would keep the motor from starting?
If the compressor is bad, replacing it would almost be equivalent to a new unit.
I sure appreciate all the information that experts post on the internet. How did we ever do home repairs without the net? But I DO know when to call in an expert.
By the way, all the fans seem to be working.
Any ideas? Thanks
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for ARB2217CW0 models | AppliancePartsPros.comUse a more sensitive ohms scale. Zero ohms just tells you that there is continuity but they may be shorted to each other internally. Here is a good link with testing info. Appliance Repair Guide: How To Fix a Refrigerator - ACME HOW TO.comCould be the capacitor but it is hard to really test then as they should be tested using operating voltage but the meter should at least tell you if it is open or shorted at the meters voltage. My understanding is that the capacitors rarely need replacing. Even if the compressor checks out OK electrically it may still be toast as it may have mechanical problems. |
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