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The igniter is wired in series with the gas valve. When the control calls for heat, line voltage is applied to the circuit. As the igniter begins to glow, the current increases. The current flow causes the valve to open when the igniter becomes bright red (almost white). Flat igniters operate from 3.2 to 3.6 amps. One of two wires going to the igniter (red wire according to the wiring diagram) is "hot" and it comes from the control board through the "C4-P4" connector. If there is nothing wrong with the control board and the connector, then you should read 120VAC between that wire and ground. The second wire going to the igniter (red wire too by the wiring diagram) is "neutral" and it comes though the gas valve from the terminal block. "Neutral" from the terminal block to the gas valve connected by the white wire. Most common cause of such problem is a bad igniter (about 85%). Chance for a bad control board is about 12% to 14% and the rest (about 1%) is a bad gas valve. The gas valve can be tested by measuring resistance across the two terminals, Bake in this case. Next step I would recommend now is to track both igniter wires to their ends. Sounds like there is lost connection between the control board and the igniter. Gene.
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Hi Gene,
Well, it seems I've been looking at the wrong igniter. I've been looking at, and have replaced, the upper broil igniter, not the upper bake igniter. It works find by the way.
After looking at the wiring diagram, (thanks for the link!), I see that the broil igniter wires are indeed yellow, while the bake igniter wires are red. This explains why I have no 120VAC on yellow when I call for upper bake. I think I was confused by your first response to this post.
Ok, so now it seems like it may very well be a bad bake igniter, since I have not tested it. I'll first find it, and then test the red wires for 120VAC. My guess is that they will have the required 120VAC when upper bake is called for, and the bake igniter will be bad.
While I look for the bake igniter, and in case I can't find it, are you able to tell me where it is on this model?
thanks Gene! I appreciate it.
Kyle
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Hi again Gene,
ok, the red wire does indeed have 120VAC when upper bake is called for. And I've found the bake igniter under the bottom of the upper oven, and, as I'm sure you know, it looks exactly like the broil igniter for the upper oven. So my plan is to use the old broil igniter that I replaced as the new bake igniter because I did not have to replace the broil igniter after all. It seems I've learned that an igniter is an igniter, be it used for bake or broil.
Now, I have the back of the oven off and can see where the red wires connect to the white wires and go into the upper oven to the bake igniter. It looks like I'll have to remove the 'second' back of the oven also and get some ceramic wire nuts because I'll have to clip off the harness where the red wires meet the white wires.
Do you see any problems with this approach?
thanks again
Kyle
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Originally Posted by: Kyle  ...Do you see any problems with this approach?... Absolutely not. Gene.
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Kyle - were you able to figure out what it was? I replaced oven sensor, ignitor and control board and it still won't heat up. Originally Posted by: Kyle The upper oven preheat stays at 100 degrees, the upper broil is okay. The lower oven preheat is okay.
thank you for any assistance!
Kyle
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My upper oven isn’t working either. The igniter works. Low gas is the problem.
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Rank: Guest
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Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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My upper oven isn’t working either. The igniter works. Low gas is the problem.
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Rank: Guest
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Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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My upper oven isn’t working either. The igniter works. Low gas is the problem.
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