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Hi guys, I have been using this forms info and some videos on you tube through the process of changing the motor couple in my Whirlpool GSW9650LW0. I replaced the part after the washer would not spin. I took the washer machine apart step by step, removed the broken couple. I inserted the new one and then put the washer back together. Now the washer spins and seems to function normal, but it makes this high pitch squeal while spinning. The squeal is present through the whole cycle and it changes pitch during the different parts rinse/drain.
Anyone know what the problem might be?
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I just had the exact same problem you encountered, and came across your post while looking for the solution. It turned out that I couldn't find a solution online so I had to figure it out myself. To troubleshoot, I ended up tilting the washer on an angle and having someone start and stop the cycle while watching and listening for the squeal. It quickly became clear that the squeal was coming from the pump end of the motor. I pulled the pump off, ran it again - still squeaked. I pulled the motor off and set it on the ground and ran it - voila! no squeak. As I remembered what I encountered during the coupler replacement, the problem came/solution came to me. My original coupler was 100% plastic, but the new one had a metal insert. Due to the fit of the metal insert on the motor/transmission shaft, I wasn't 100% sure I had the halves completely seated. What happened was that when the motor was installed, the apparent "extra length" of the coupler (due to not being fully seated) was placing thrust on the motor shaft, and putting excessive strain on the bearings (mostly the pump end). I took a deep socket the same OD as the metal portion of the coupling and using a hammer (gingerly), I fully seated the coupler halves until the motor/transmission shaft ends were flush with the face of the coupler halves. I reinstalled the motor and run tested - no more squeal.
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 1 user thanked racerecks for this useful post.
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Rank: Member
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Thank you, thank you, Racerecks. I just attempted the same repair with the same squealing after. Using a socket and hammer was brilliant. What I wonder though is how I will ever get the coupling off if it breaks again? Maybe Whirlpool doesn't want this repair to be made more than once per machine?
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Rank: Member
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Thanks a lot racerecks for your extensive diagnosis. My problem intensified - burning smell etc. from the motor necessitating a complete shutoff. Then I saw your reply and used the same socket technique to re-seat the coupler. Works like a charm now. Literally a millimeter of total gap that had caused a lot of anguish.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/13/2021(UTC) Posts: 0  Location: TX Thanks: 1 times
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Originally Posted by: racerecks  I just had the exact same problem you encountered, and came across your post while looking for the solution. It turned out that I couldn't find a solution online so I had to figure it out myself. To troubleshoot, I ended up tilting the washer on an angle and having someone start and stop the cycle while watching and listening for the squeal. It quickly became clear that the squeal was coming from the pump end of the motor. I pulled the pump off, ran it again - still squeaked. I pulled the motor off and set it on the ground and ran it - voila! no squeak. As I remembered what I encountered during the coupler replacement, the problem came/solution came to me. My original coupler was 100% plastic, but the new one had a metal insert. Due to the fit of the metal insert on the motor/transmission shaft, I wasn't 100% sure I had the halves completely seated. What happened was that when the motor was installed, the apparent "extra length" of the coupler (due to not being fully seated) was placing thrust on the motor shaft, and putting excessive strain on the bearings (mostly the pump end). I took a deep socket the same OD as the metal portion of the coupling and using a hammer (gingerly), I fully seated the coupler halves until the motor/transmission shaft ends were flush with the face of the coupler halves. I reinstalled the motor and run tested - no more squeal. Thanks for the explanation! I had the exact same problem. The replacement coupler had the metal fittings and at first I didn't seat the coupler next to the transmission side (it was 1/4 inch too far out). Once I get it pressed all the way down (with a hammer and socket) the washer is back up and running. I also wonder what will happen the next time the coupler goes out. It seems it would not be easy to unseat those now. Thanks again.
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Thanks, same thing happened to me. I decided to re-service my Whirlpool Estate II top loader washer myself and bought all brand new OEM genuine. I replaced the clutch and the coupler. It started making the noise you are describing. How deep do I need to go down with the coupler with the metal insert? I pushed both ends all the way down until they were flat even with the motor shaft and also same with the gearcase transmission end. The noise is most noticeable in super and regular mode then sounds different as you said in the slower cycles. Any hints and advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
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Rank: Guest
Groups: Joined: 8/10/2018(UTC) Posts: 0 Location: 99556 Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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hello again,
also, is there such a thing as over tightening the spanner nut to where the washer is making noises depending on the load? how tight should it be? mine doesn't move at all when off. could it be i over tightened it? thanks
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