This 5-year old dryers heating capacity became lower over time causing excessive drying time ... until finally no heat. Blower was working and everything else seemed in order as well. Went on-line to read the discussion(s) on this unit and after taking a few VOM readings decided on ordering the blower motor … despite 14-ohm readings across the windings. The elements were suspect firstly but they ohm'd out correctly at 17-ohms each and on visual inspection appeared intact.


Installed the new blower motor (belt for drum finally made since and CW rotation) and tested unit with door opened to check for heat. I could feel and see the glow from heating elements and thought all would be okay until after about a minute the unit completely lost power, no screen, nothing.


Went out an bought a digital ohm meter (DVOM) because I can't read the cheap small analog scales anyway :). It became apparent I did not have 120-volts at connector CN 10 on the inverter power board. That left the inlet safety thermostat suspect after checking the schematic and continuity top side … so tore it down again and looked at thermostat and noticed a little button on it. My first instinct was to push it in because it reminded me of miniature circuit breaker. I felt a slight click and read 0.2-ohms across it but did not know if that was the cause for the lack of continuity. So I tested all the logical paths and then found the idler switch (mechanical micro switch that the tensioner pulley actuates in an apparent attempt to protect everything in case of belt failure). I had the drum out and the switch was open so … until I propped the mechanism up I of couse still had no path for the 120-VAC to connector CN 10. Ah, now I had continuity but had to put the inlet safety thermostat to a heat test to see if it opened, it did.


So what is this thing … the inlet safety thermostat? After finding more information I discovered that I should not have ignored the almost imperceptible ohms (0.2-ohms) that I read initially. I was familiar with thermistors (used in toasters to curling irons) and thermostats in cars that would be hard to test short of boiling it in water; however, this should have read 2.27-k ohms rather than 0.2-ohms. I am guessing the resistance on this device decreases with increasing temperature telling the computer (that wild-card device called the inverter) to decrease the voltage to element 2 first as temperatures approach its trip limit (120-C). This to me seemed logical because heat kept falling of as this thermally lost resistance. I do not know if this caused the blower motor to fail or if they failed in tandem but the run away temps (due to a working blower motor newly installed) and tripping of this device (which previously could not trip because of a faulty blower motor and therefore lack of heat) is going to be the final screw in this machine.


I would like to note that I did retest both the inlet and outlet thermistors before ordering this part and the inlet thermistor tested about 10 times higher than several sources suggested (227-k ohms rather than 2.27-k ohms). I had also read in one of the discussions that someone else had this same experience. Then I read a discrepancy in the GE Tech Manual that showed in a few places the lower value and the higher value in another. This lead me to conclude the higher value is correct.


All I can hope now is that the new inlet safety thermostat reads 2.27-k ohms and this is what the inverter needs to see in order to regulate everything. I'll keep you posted.


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how to remove back panel on ge profile harmony???

What do you need access to? It's easier to take off the front and remove the belt and drum. Take that out and you have complete access to the entire dryer. The back panel is notched into the sides. Very difficult to remove.

The instructions are attached to the post.

Gene.