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Followed many of the tips already posted. Optics consistently showed code that indicated they were bad. BUT yesterday (after I ordered new optics) odd codes seemed to come up, like a long and a short blink repeating. AND today just a few hours before my parts arrived the lights blink normally! (could a connection at the icemaker being loose cause this? I removed the icemaker again because I forgot to put the cover back on. That may have moved the connector enough to make a difference?)
Now I'm seeing (only) 95 volts across N-L, and the unit doesn't move at all with a jumper between T-H.
Also, power doesn't seem to ever get to the water valve. Putting external power to the valve for a few seconds added water to the icemaker, so the valve is OK and the line isn't frozen.
I haven't opened my new optics yet; it now sounds like the icemaker itself. Do you agree?
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Originally Posted by: emanchi1  ...AND today just a few hours before my parts arrived the [COLOR="Red"]lights blink normally[/COLOR]...
...Now I'm seeing (only) 95 volts across N-L, and the unit doesn't move at all with a jumper between T-H...
...it now sounds like the icemaker itself. Do you agree?... The light should stay On. If it's blinking in any way then it's abnormal. 95 volts is not enough for the ice maker and the power to the ice maker comes from the boards. So I disagree. The optic boards are still the suspects. If you ordered them from APP, then you have nothing to loose. You can return any part even if it was installed. Gene.
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Thanks! (By lights blinking normally, I meant: flapper open - 2 flashes 1 sec delay repeats; light solid when flapper closed)
Before I installed new optics that was screwed up again! Now with new boards its OK
It seems I still need to check out ice maker - no water flows so power isn't getting to the solenoid valve (yesterday I put external power to valve and water flowed to ice maker
I rechecked the L-N voltage with the new boards but couldn't get a reading - maybe my connector wasn't fully engaged. Still got only about 98 volts at the connector between black-white and white connections.
Applying external 120 v across black and white pins on ice maker and it did not move with or without jumper across T-H
Have continuity (0 ohms) from black pin to L, and from white to N
I did notice heater warming the mold.
Ejector blades are parked in the ice tray at about a 5 o'clock position (looking at the ice maker from the end with the water fill neck)
Motor has seemed to operate while I've been troubleshooting - But I can't say for sure it was consistently. In fact I suspect it's been on and off which has puzzled me.
What would you suggest?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Rank: Member
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Thank you for confirming - It seemed to me that it must be bad.
Gene, you've been a big help to me and many others!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Thank you for your good words. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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