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The unit is less than three years old and quit running. I checked for power at the wall outlet and it is good. I removed the cover from the control board and checked for power into the thermal fuse. I checked for continuity across the fuse and continuity checks good. I removed the wires going into the thermal fuse and there is house power across these wires. I checked for continuity across the two micro-switches on the door latch. Continuity and insulation check on the switches when they are opened and closed, and voltage checks across the switches when power is on. There is no voltage when the switch position is closed, so the latch switches are getting power. Some of the various red lights come on when pushing buttons for pots and pans options, etc. The main start button does not light up, neither red nor green.
I don't know how to troubleshoot the board beyond the basic checks described here. Are there any other checks I should perform before guessing the power board is bad and spending $100?
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I found the troubleshooting diagram and started by running the Service Diagnostic Cycle by pushing Heated Dry, Normal, Heated Dry, Normal. The LEDs all lit up and the machine cycled itself through a bunch of tests. After it finished, the machine would not sart with the START button and acted dead. I initiated another Service Diagnostic Cycle, and the machine ran through the cycles fine. Then I tried starting the machine again with the Start button, and it did not respond.
I removed the control console assembly and the control board. The next procedure is to check the keyswitch buttons resistance with the P1 plug removed from the control board. Number 1 is labeled, and there are 14 conductors in the ribbon. Establishing contact with conductors is difficult because each conductor is covered with the 14 hole plastic plug connector and getting the voltmeter probe on the conductor is not easy. This is where things get confusing. I tried checking 4 or 5 buttons according to the procedure paying attention to polarity. All I see is open button circuits; I can't verify any button is closing a circuit. I even put the meter in diode mode and looked for voltage when clicking the buttons and still saw nothing. It seems to me that Heated Dry and Normal buttons must work, because the Service Diagnostic Cycle runs fine. The ribbon is in good shape; it looks brand new. I have not had any problems with the control up until now.
Is it possible for all the button switches to fail the test? Is there a common diode that may be bad causing the button tests to fail? How do I determine if I need to replace the console/keypad assembly, or the control board, or neither? Help!
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Hi Bob,
Based on my experience the problem is a bad key panel, which is a part of the console. In order to provide the right part number I need the color of the console.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Gene,
Thanks for responding, I really appreciate it. The console color is white.
Even though I can't cinfirm any of the keypad buttons function properly with my ohm meter, the normal and heated dry buttons must work because the diagnostic cycle initiates after clicking these buttons. Are the key panels hard to check?
Thanks again............Bob
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Bob, The part number for the white console is AP3777749 Unfortunately the part is on back order by Whirlpool (this is a real manufacturer for your dishwasher). You can call APP customer service 877-477-7278 for ETA. It's pretty hard to check pads. As far as I know you have to have a special tools to properly check the key panel. Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Gene,
I followed your recommendation by removing the keypad ribbon connector and powering up the control board, and then while holding the door latch switches closed, briefly jumpered the start button pins within the keypad connector on the control board. The dishwasher powered up so now I am sure the keypad console is bad. Thank you very much for your expert advice, you are a master!
Bob
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
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I'm glad you're on the right track. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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