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Originally Posted by: dh1200s  Understand, Drop the Clutch Pulley out and see if it can be cleaned up if it can't be cleaned up you need to replace. That should get you back in service. If there is severe rust you need to think about a Tub Seal replacement. You can follow this post Maytag Neptune load unbalance for Clutch Pulley clean up. Or the other forum with my Sticky notes. If you need to replace the Clutch Pully I would not pay more than $80 + shipping. Google this p/n 25001169 for best price.…….Dick Dropped the clutch out. No rust on the sleeve or the bearing itself. Bearing seemed to be very 'dry'. Cleaned it with WD-40 and then put some grease in it. Did not have Slick 50. Maybe next time. Used high grade wheel bearing grease. Beginning to re-install now. Will pay attention to the 1/16-1/8 free-play. Felt it before I took it down. They gave us a lot of room didn't they. I'll post back and let you know how it worked out. Thanks
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Originally Posted by: alexjazz Dropped the clutch out. No rust on the sleeve or the bearing itself. Bearing seemed to be very 'dry'. Cleaned it with WD-40 and then put some grease in it. Did not have Slick 50. Maybe next time. Used high grade wheel bearing grease. Beginning to re-install now. Will pay attention to the 1/16-1/8 free-play. Felt it before I took it down. They gave us a lot of room didn't they. I'll post back and let you know how it worked out.
Thanks Dick, back together and put wet clothes that would not spin out back in the machine and put it thru quick spin test. Spun up, less vibration with clothes. Spun out and now I will re-wash these clothes thru the full cycle. When they are done I will report back. If we could see how much this tub moves around before we purchased, we might move on to something else. Thanks for your help.
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Originally Posted by: alexjazz Dick, back together and put wet clothes that would not spin out back in the machine and put it thru quick spin test. Spun up, less vibration with clothes. Spun out and now I will re-wash these clothes thru the full cycle. When they are done I will report back. If we could see how much this tub moves around before we purchased, we might move on to something else. Thanks for your help. OK Dick, load re-done with no problems. Thank you for your willingness to share your expertise with the rest of us. Your thorough explanations and your helpful hints save us a lot of time, as well as, a lot of money. I tried to find your email address on your profile but could not. Maybe there is a tip to navigating your profile. Thanks again
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Alex,
I'm at work right now so a quick response. I would never use any bearing grease on this type of bearing. Wash with WD-40 and I lube with Slick 50 0ne Lube.
Did your clutch use the Upper Bearing Ring?
I pulled my e-mail from Vcard. I will place it back in tomorrow.
Watch out for that Tub Seal.
Good luck and reach out if we can help with other issues.
Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Alex,
I'm at work right now so a quick response. I would never use any bearing grease on this type of bearing. Wash with WD-40 and I lube with Slick 50 0ne Lube.
Did your clutch use the Upper Bearing Ring?
I pulled my e-mail from Vcard. I will place it back in tomorrow.
Watch out for that Tub Seal.
Good luck and reach out if we can help woth other issues.
Dick Dick, after getting your reply I have been looking for the pictures that I saw on one of your post's last night. Can't find it so I will describe my clutch. I don't think it carried the 'upper bearing'. The clutch spring housing is black. From the top down there is an opaque plastic cover that has the four small screws. When you remove the opaque 'dust cover' (?) you find a hard plastic disc that holds the needle bearing and its sleeve with the two 'teeth' that fit into the notches on the shaft that comes out of the tub. That's it. Like I said, there was not the piece that I was looking for, which from what I remember, was a smaller hard white plastic disc with two raised protrusions opposed and a bearing in the middle that I suppose would ride on the sleeve that I did have in mine. The main difficulty I had was getting the teeth to line up at the same time I was able to get the square end of the shaft to align with the clutch. I can see how a good bit of damage could be done if the clutch is not re-installed properly. Guess we might have some knashing of teeth. I'm still amazed at how much movement and gyrations take place while the machine is operating. I would have hated to be the one to prototype this unit. Don't you know they scattered some parts along the way? And a lot of nerves too. Will the control panel tell the total number of cycles on this machine? If so can you help me find the page that gives the instructions or is it something that you remember? Again, thanks for all of your help.
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Alex, Another quick post on break at the real job. ""When you remove the opaque 'dust cover' (?) you find a hard plastic disc that holds the needle bearing and its sleeve with the two 'teeth' that fit into the notches on the shaft that comes out of the tub. That's it."" I named that the Spinner Shaft Coupler I have no idea what it is called. ""Will the control panel tell the total number of cycles on this machine? If so can you help me find the page that gives the instructions or is it something that you remember? Again, thanks for all of your help."" You can read the Cycle Count in Service Mode see page 14 right above Quick Spin Test. ""Like I said, there was not the piece that I was looking for, which from what I remember, was a smaller hard white plastic disc with two raised protrusions opposed and a bearing in the middle that I suppose would ride on the sleeve that I did have in mine."" I call that the Upper Bearing Ring. ""I can see how a good bit of damage could be done if the clutch is not re-installed properly. Guess we might have some knashing of teeth."" No real problem if the Clutch Pulley is not seated properly on reassembly it will just spin off no harm. I describe in my post to lay the machine flat on it's back blocked up a bit to protect the drain line. It makes it a bit easier to reseat the the Clutch Pulley. Prefer using my bike lift as a work table....see pic. Your Series 13 machine sounds like it does not use the Upper Bearing Ring. Take care and good luck.............Dick Some extra Clutch Pulley Pic's. dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Thanks again Dick... I ended up taking relay apart and cleaning it up and seems to be working fine now... Thank you...
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Good deal most of the time corrision issues come in to play to the point where the lead on the magnetic reed relay will break off. Glad it worked out for you and thank you for the update..........Dick dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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Hello Dick:
Well I am getting the od code again.... Magnet is not working and I have it taken apart... Should I just buy a new relay? Is so any ideas in Michigan where I would get the best price..
Any help is appreciated.... Thanks,
Steve
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The generic p/n is 25001048 for the Left Hand Lid Lock. Appliance parts pro p/n is AP4033944 and you can get it from this site. Just confirm the p/n with whoever you order from to make sure I'm giving you correct info.Do you have an OHM meter? I would check that the Magnetic Reed relay is closing with a magnet on the LH lid lock and opening when the magnet is removed as I show with the picks below. The other test I would do is to verify at the Control Board +12VDC at Conn_P3 pin 4 and trace that down to the Left Hand Lid lock and back to the Control Board Conn_P3 pin 9 “Lid Closed Input”. The Control board is looking for +12VDC to be removed from Conn_P3 pin 9 at the end of the Wash Cycle or Spin Only Cycle when you open the washer lid. The last Pic is measuring "Lid is Locked" +12VDC signaling at the Control Board Conn_P3 pin 8 just to show a typical +12VDC signaling at the Control Board. This is how I would confirm the +12VDC signaling at Conn_P3 pins for trouble shooting the "OD" and "OP" error code. That is all I can suggest in troubleshooting to get closer to the fail point if you can do this additional troubleshooting. I guess the Magnetic Reed relay contacts can fail stuck closed. I would make sure that you have the option to return the Left Hand lid lock if the replacement does not fix the issue.DickPosting additional pic for Ohm meter connection measurements of the Left Han Lid Lock. I have the Ohm meter placed between the L.H . Lid Lock pins I have labeled P1 and P2. The last pic is Conn_P3 on the Control board with some additional pinout info. dh1200s attached the following image(s):
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