Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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My washer will sometimes freeze and fail to empty after the wash cycle. If I give it a smack (like dropping the lid from an inch or so), it'll sometimes start up again. Sometimes I have do spin the timer around some trying to find a spot. Sometimes that work, but later it will start up again if I fiddle with it more. Finally, sometimes the timer will continue to the end of the cycle, but the tank will still be full of wash water (normally when it freezes the timer stops at that point in the cycle).
I'm 95% sure it's a bum ticker. But, I guess it could be something else, like the lid switch (seems unlikely). What else could cause this kind of behavior?
Thanks! B Atkins
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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I agreed with you. Sounds like the timer is the first failure suspect. - The part number for the timer is AP3018677 Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool washer Model LSV7244AQ0Gene.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/20/2008(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks Gene, I played with the door switch and could find no problem, so I pulled the trigger and ordered the timer. This is a great site, and one I've used several times now! Cheers! B Atkins Originally Posted by: Gene I agreed with you. Sounds like the timer is the first failure suspect. - The part number for the timer is AP3018677 Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool washer Model LSV7244AQ0Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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You are welcome. Keep us posted.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/17/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Given that it does spin and drain at times makes it more than likely that it is not a plugged up drain hose. I would go with a blown cycle timer. This piece is sort of a computerized clockwork. One of several internal switches could be burned out or broke. These things are so compact and well sealed, it almost not worth the time to trouble shoot to figure which switch is the bad one - and when you do, do you really what to spend sooo much time fixing it versus just replacing the whole timer as a unit? My Maytag timer, which I got from the Sears Replacement store, or you can get it for the same price at the online site, was $89, plus shipping and tax. The total was $118 and delivered right to my doorstep. The hardest part was figuring out how to remove the knob set up so as to free the unplugged timer. Once that was done, I worked in reverse. The washer is working brand new since then!
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/17/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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