Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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This is a follow up to my previous post where the thermal overload on the compressor kept popping and the compressor wouldn't run. Turns out the relay had a bunch of loose parts inside, so that was definitely bad. I installed a new relay and overload kit (FSP #8201799) from my local parts store, and then the unit started to run. Actually it ran the best it has in years for the last few days. Then this evening I noticed the refrigerator side was warmer than it should be, and the freezer was staring to defrost again. And as before, the thermal overload was clicking off. The relay was still good, and by removing the thermal unit and jumping the red wire to that compressor pin, the compressor runs again.
The kit came with 2 thermal overloads- one for the 20/22 Ccf refrigerators and the other for th e25/27. I used the one for 25. Like I said above, the whole thing ran great for several days- is it possible this thermal overload is just to close to the margin here?? Are there heavier duty versions? What's the down side of running without the thermal overload- fire? The compressor itself was not overly hot to the touch- I could hold my hand on it for 2-3 seconds.
Note- the condenser coils were cleaned off at the same time as the repair and looked good.
Any thoughts of where I should turn next??
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/13/2008(UTC) Posts: 3,097
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They should have sold you part #4387835 and changing the capacitor is usually a good ideal part # 4387764 Nat
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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What is this other kit?? The fellow at the parts store knew the Whirlpool kit right off the top of his head. I saw that note in the kit instructions about the capacitor, but my frig didn't have one to begin with.
I let the unit run now for 15 min without the thermal overload (red wire connected directly to the thermal overload pin on compressor) and the compressor got very hot (hotter than before seems like it started to smell), and the power cord (to the wall) seemed warm, but not hot. Is this all sounding like the compressor is dead or dying??
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/9/2008(UTC) Posts: 784
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Check your amp draw when it's trying to start. The compressor may be bad, or go over the way you wired it. Do you have the run capacitor wired in? did you have to use the jumper wire in the kit with the smaller spade terminal? which embraco compressor do you have the 80 or 90? Usually that kit will cure most whirlpool embraco compressors not starting and running
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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The compressor is a 90. I don't have an amp meter to do that check-too bad.
Yes, I used the small wire in the kit, but my frig had no capacitor in it, and there wasn't one in the start device kit either.
The compressor always made this very light ringing sound when running, but now when it runs it's more of a buzzing. The frig was cooling though. Of course I was running it without the thermal device in place and that's when it got hotter than I've seen before and started to smell....
Would a capacitor make much of a difference here?? It seems the compressor is getting far too hot (smell) and that change in tone seems odd....
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 8/13/2008(UTC) Posts: 3,097
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The capacitor I noted above is the one for your unit. It's #17 on the compressor page of the breakdown- Model ED25TQXGW00Nat
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 10/15/2008(UTC) Posts: 6
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There actually wasn't one on my frig. I saw that on the parts drawing as well, but I understand it's "optional"....
The point for me seems to be that the compressor seems to be overheating, even when run without the thermal overload in place (jumped across) so will a capacitor (now) make any difference???
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/1/2008(UTC) Posts: 440
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The "Thermal Overload" senses two temperatures. The first is the temperature of the Compressor body, that is why it is mounted on the "Dome". The second is the temperature of the wiring to the compressor hence excessive amperage draw. By by-passing it,:eek: you remove the "SAFETY" factor, that is why you should not remove it. The purpose of the run capacitor is to make it more efficient, it basically makes the compressor a "Multi-Phase" motor. :)
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