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kcarz3  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, March 16, 2011 4:26:15 PM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Dishwasher clean light was blinking and I was able to clear it and wash again. I did this several times trying to diagnose what the problem was. Now the clean light doesn't blink anymore just goes green at end of wash. The dishes do not get clean. The water is not getting hot and the dishes are not drying. I have checked all the components to the best of my knowledge and they all seem fine. Thought the board was bad and replaced that but did not help. Any ideas?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Thursday, March 17, 2011 3:00:59 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 66516269402 by Kenmore Elite | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
I have checked all the components to the best of my knowledge and they all seem fine.[/COLOR]
How did you check them?
Also did you check the wires from the control board to the heater for continuity?
File Attachment(s):
16269402.pdf (168kb) downloaded 69 time(s).
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kcarz3  
#3 Posted : Thursday, March 17, 2011 4:01:51 PM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 66516269402 by Kenmore Elite | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

I have checked all the components to the best of my knowledge and they all seem fine.
How did you check them?
Also did you check the wires from the control board to the heater for continuity?



I checked the components with a fluke meter on ohms setting and used the audible setting as well. I shut off power to the dishwasher and removed wiring before checking across the terminals.
I checked the wire from the control board P6 w-r wire and the orange wire at the heating element with a 0.00 ohm reading.
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, March 18, 2011 12:38:35 AM(UTC)
denman

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OK that shows that the high limit thermostat is OK but you also have to check the heater itself and the door switch that goes to the heater.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kcarz3  
#5 Posted : Saturday, March 19, 2011 6:54:05 PM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
OK that shows that the high limit thermostat is OK but you also have to check the heater itself and the door switch that goes to the heater.

The heating element has an audible tone and 12.5 ohms reading. I checked both door switches. Both had no audible tone until I took a screwdriver and pushed in the switch. They both read 0.02 ohms.
denman  
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 20, 2011 3:27:15 AM(UTC)
denman

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Sounds like you have checked out the heater parts so all that is left is the control board. It is probably shot.
Part number: AP3775998
Part number: AP3775998

Click on the picture for more info.

Since you have done the troubleshooting I think if you order it from AppliancePartsPros and it does not fix your problem you can return it.
Please see their return policy.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kcarz3  
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 20, 2011 7:16:36 AM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Sounds like you have checked out the heater parts so all that is left is the control board. It is probably shot.
Part number: AP3775998
Part number: AP3775998

Click on the picture for more info.

Since you have done the troubleshooting I think if you order it from AppliancePartsPros and it does not fix your problem you can return it.
Please see their return policy.

I have already replaced the board and I purchesed from APP. It did not change anything but I wonder if the new one is bad as well. Any way of checking the board or should I get in contact with APP?
kcarz3  
#8 Posted : Sunday, March 20, 2011 3:54:24 PM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Originally Posted by: kcarz3 Go to Quoted Post
I have already replaced the board and I purchesed from APP. It did not change anything but I wonder if the new one is bad as well. Any way of checking the board or should I get in contact with APP?

Contacted APP customer service and they will be sending me out a replacement board on Monday. Thank you for all your help. I will let you know how the new board turns out.
denman  
#9 Posted : Monday, March 21, 2011 1:56:27 AM(UTC)
denman

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If the new board does not fix it, short the two wires going to the heater door switch. You will probably have to tape them up so they do not short to anything else.
Then give it a try, perhaps for some reason that switch is not being closed by the latch.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
kcarz3  
#10 Posted : Wednesday, March 23, 2011 6:49:06 PM(UTC)
kcarz3

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
If the new board does not fix it, short the two wires going to the heater door switch. You will probably have to tape them up so they do not short to anything else.
Then give it a try, perhaps for some reason that switch is not being closed by the latch.

Installed the new board and still nothing. Jumpered the door switch and I finally have heat!!!! I went back to my original board and it is bad. I hooked up the door switch but left it loose and taped the switch toggle to bypass the door latch. No heat. So I am going to replace the door switch and that looks like it should do it. I greatly appreciate all your help. I could not have done it without you. And best of all the wife is happy.
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