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I recently replaced the "Glow Bar Igniter" on my Jenn Air JGR8855ADS purchased in 1999 or 2000. This was to remedy a slow rising temperature issue. Eventually the oven temperature did not rise at all over a period of a half hour.
After replacing the Igniter Bar, the oven now will rise in temperature but it takes approximately 35 to 45 minutes to warm up. It sounds like gas is shooting into the tube, but it makes a continuous "Puff" sound. Like the gas never ignites. The Broiler works great, the oven not so good. Even when the oven reads 375 degrees, It is probably only about 225 degrees.
I have read several articles about fixing this. One forum told me I may have gotten a bad igniter (DOA out of the box) Other articles state that the problem could be one of the following:
*The thermostat is defective.
*The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
*The selector switch is defective.
Any advice on which part to order next, would be appreciated. :)
Thanks in advance.
Rich
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Originally Posted by: Dixcomputer  I recently replaced the "Glow Bar Igniter" on my Jenn Air JGR8855ADS purchased in 1999 or 2000. This was to remedy a slow rising temperature issue. Eventually the oven temperature did not rise at all over a period of a half hour.
After replacing the Igniter Bar, the oven now will rise in temperature but it takes approximately 35 to 45 minutes to warm up. It sounds like gas is shooting into the tube, but it makes a continuous "Puff" sound. Like the gas never ignites. The Broiler works great, the oven not so good. Even when the oven reads 375 degrees, It is probably only about 225 degrees.
I have read several articles about fixing this. One forum told me I may have gotten a bad igniter (DOA out of the box) Other articles state that the problem could be one of the following:
*The thermostat is defective.
*The safety valve that prevents accidental gas flow is defective.
*The selector switch is defective.
Any advice on which part to order next, would be appreciated. :)
Thanks in advance.
Rich Rich, The "pop" noise would indicate a bad fuel / air mixture, and or you're on LP gas ? It's not likely the selector switch or thermostat is part of the problem. Try this, Turn off the power to the range, turn off the gas supply to the range. Remove the oven door, then remove the oven bottom panel, so you can access the bake burner. Carefully remove the ignitor from the burner, and remove the burner assembly. Check and clean all the opennings in the burner tube, with a needle or ice pick. Remove the bake burner oriface(the brass part that is located inside the burner tube, attached to the bake valve(mark or remember the number of turns it takes to remove), check and clean it inside and out, and don't oversize the openning. Reassemble everything, make sure the orifice spud is centerred in the burner opening and the shutter is at least 3/4 way open(NAT gas / full open for LP gas. I'm pretty sure you're going to find your problem there . Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Thanks Joe, I will clean as per your instructions and let you know how it goes. I really appreciate the advice. Especially the bakers in the home (my wife and daughter)
Rich
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Originally Posted by: Dixcomputer Thanks Joe, I will clean as per your instructions and let you know how it goes. I really appreciate the advice. Especially the bakers in the home (my wife and daughter)
Rich Rich, We'll keep an eye out for your next post, Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe, I took the oven floor out and exposed the burner tube. The tube looked almost brand new (no clogs or gunk in any of the holes)
The brass valve on this unit is below the oven floor and toward the back of the unit. The burner tube curves 90 degrees downward at the back of the oven floor. If I remove the tube from the oven floor I can see the valve but I would have to take the back of the oven off to expose it.
This is what I did to test the unit after I checked and re-installed the burner tube.
1. Started the oven/turning it on to 350 degrees
2. Immediately the oven clicks on and shows a 100 degrees on the display
3. Within 10 seconds approx, the igniter bar glows bright orange
4. It took approx 2 minutes for gas to shoot into the tube and it lit fine (nice flame coming out through every hole on the burner tube)
5. It got to 165 degrees in about 30 seconds, then it shut off
6. After another minute the oven started to attempt to shoot gas into the tube and was doing so in small bursts, this caused the "pop or puffing" sound and the flames from the tube were extremely small and short. I am pretty confident that this is why it takes so long to heat up. (There is never a continuous flame)
I am OK with taking the oven apart from the back to clean the brass valve, but I saw that it works. Is there a board that controls this? Is it a possibility that it is bad?:confused:
Appreciate any advice :)
Thanks,
Rich
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Originally Posted by: Dixcomputer Joe, I took the oven floor out and exposed the burner tube. The tube looked almost brand new (no clogs or gunk in any of the holes)
The brass valve on this unit is below the oven floor and toward the back of the unit. The burner tube curves 90 degrees downward at the back of the oven floor. If I remove the tube from the oven floor I can see the valve but I would have to take the back of the oven off to expose it.
This is what I did to test the unit after I checked and re-installed the burner tube.
1. Started the oven/turning it on to 350 degrees
2. Immediately the oven clicks on and shows a 100 degrees on the display
3. Within 10 seconds approx, the igniter bar glows bright orange
4. It took approx 2 minutes for gas to shoot into the tube and it lit fine (nice flame coming out through every hole on the burner tube)
5. It got to 165 degrees in about 30 seconds, then it shut off
6. After another minute the oven started to attempt to shoot gas into the tube and was doing so in small bursts, this caused the "pop or puffing" sound and the flames from the tube were extremely small and short. I am pretty confident that this is why it takes so long to heat up. (There is never a continuous flame)
I am OK with taking the oven apart from the back to clean the brass valve, but I saw that it works. Is there a board that controls this? Is it a possibility that it is bad?:confused:
Appreciate any advice :)
Thanks,
Rich Rich, We need to work on a process of elimination, The top burners(cooktop) work OK ? Does the broil burner work proper ? Are the connections you made at the new glow bar igniter, good and tight ? It should not have taken 2 minutes for the burner to ignite(more like 60 seconds or less). You could be correct, about a bad igniter in the box, and it is the most likey culprit(as long as the connections are proper) at this point. I would not think, you have a bad temperature sensor, you'll know if the broil works properly(the burner should cycle at 550 to 600 degrees). If you could get a hold of a multi meter, we'd be a lot better off. Part number: AP3873826
Let's try a new ignitor, in the mean time. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Hey Joe, I have a multimeter. What would you like me to test?
Rich:)
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Originally Posted by: Dixcomputer Hey Joe, I have a multimeter. What would you like me to test?
Rich:) You may be able to access the dual bake valve terminals, by removing the storage drawer, and some units have a cover/safety plate. With your meter set at VAC voltage. Put the 2 meter leads across the 2 wires on the bake burner section of the dual valve and check for 3.2 to 3.6 VAC when the igniter starts to glow. It should take 60 seconds or less to achieve that voltage at the valve, If you don't get that voltage in that amount of time, you've got a loose connection or a weak/bad glow bar igniter. If you have the voltage, in the amount of time, then you'd have a bad dual burner safety valve. If you like, The resistance on the oven temperature probe(in the oven) should be less than 1100 ohms at 100 dgrs or less. And 1350 to 1400 ohms at 200 dgrs(boiling water). You'll most likely find a weak/bad igniter, but at this point, you should find your problem with one of these checks. :) :) :)
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