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“”I just read “”[FIXED] Maytag Neptune, Timer Problem”” and went thru the drain pump test again. Pump did activate. Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good. Tub won't turn in either direction. It also takes much longer than 1 min to unlock lid. I didn't time it, but seemed like atleast 2-4 min b4 it would unlock.””
“”Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good.””
OK We need to find out why the Wash Basket will not rotate CCW the Spin direction. It should never rotate CW. The Inner Tub contains the Wash Basket/Tumblers mounted to the Transmission and that whole assembly bolts to the Spinner Assembly which rides in the Outer Tub bearings.
What are the 1st two digits of your Serial Number? They will be 10 thru 18 as I have discovered so far. The model # S/N tag is located on the right rear console. That will give me a feel for the Clutch Pulley configuration and Outer Tub design.
”” Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good. Tub won't turn in either direction.””
OK this is an issue and you may have found your problem. If you read the Sticky at the other forum starting at the 5th post down I describe in detail How to trouble shoot DC/UC unbalance errors. That description I hope will give you good feel for how the Wash/Agitate and Spin Cycle functions.
From your description I feel the Spinner Assembly is seized in the Outer Tub Bearings.....but that is an early diagnosis more troubleshooting is needed to get closer to the fail point.
I would next have you follow the SM for removing the washer front cover. Follow all safety warnings in the SM.
With 120VAC washer power cord unplugged from the service outlet, remove the washer front cover.
With the front cover off see if you spin the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) for a couple of turns the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley will compress. Once compressed (after a few Clutch Pulley CCW rotations) the wash basket should begin to rotate CCW does it? You will need a helper to observe. Checking here that the Spinner Support is rotating freely in the Outer Tub bearings. Can you pass back you results?
When you rotate the Clutch Pulley CW (Wash agitate direction) the tumblers should begin to turn immediately do they? Checking that the Agitator Shaft is turning freely in the Spinner Support bearings and the tranny is not locked up. .....But my focus is the SPIN DIRECTION Clutch Pulley CCW direction of the Clutch Pulley.
Can you pass back you results?
“”I am going to run thru test on pages 17 & 19 of SM and let you know what I find.””
""Went thru pages 17 & 19 of SM. Found no error codes in the Diagnostic Codes. All I got was "--", two dashes. Everything seemed to be normal for the displacement sensor test on page 19 of SM.””
“”All I got was "--", two dashes.”” That is very strange not to have any Diag Code blocks indicated is very unusual. I assume no one but you have touched the washer for maintenance is that correct?
The TDS check was part of my troubleshooting path for no error code to the LED Console display.............Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s  “”I just read “”[FIXED] Maytag Neptune, Timer Problem”” and went thru the drain pump test again. Pump did activate. Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good. Tub won't turn in either direction. It also takes much longer than 1 min to unlock lid. I didn't time it, but seemed like atleast 2-4 min b4 it would unlock.””
“”Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good.””
OK We need to find out why the Wash Basket will not rotate CCW the Spin direction. It should never rotate CW. The Inner Tub contains the Wash Basket/Tumblers mounted to the Transmission and that whole assembly bolts to the Spinner Assembly which rides in the Outer Tub bearings.
What are the 1st two digits of your Serial Number? They will be 10 thru 18 as I have discovered so far. The model # S/N tag is located on the right rear console. That will give me a feel for the Clutch Pulley configuration and Outer Tub design.
”” Then I tried to spin the tub by hand......not so good. Tub won't turn in either direction.””
OK this is an issue and you may have found your problem. If you read the Sticky at the other forum starting at the 5th post down I describe in detail How to trouble shoot DC/UC unbalance errors. That description I hope will give you good feel for how the Wash/Agitate and Spin Cycle functions.
From your description I feel the Spinner Assembly is seized in the Outer Tub Bearings.....but that is an early diagnosis more troubleshooting is needed to get closer to the fail point.
I would next have you follow the SM for removing the washer front cover. Follow all safety warnings in the SM.
With 120VAC washer power cord unplugged from the service outlet, remove the washer front cover.
With the front cover off see if you spin the Clutch Pulley CCW (Spin direction) for a couple of turns the large wrap spring in the Clutch Pulley will compress. Once compressed (after a few Clutch Pulley CCW rotations) the wash basket should begin to rotate CCW does it? You will need a helper to observe. Checking here that the Spinner Support is rotating freely in the Outer Tub bearings. Can you pass back you results?
When you rotate the Clutch Pulley CW (Wash agitate direction) the tumblers should begin to turn immediately do they? Checking that the Agitator Shaft is turning freely in the Spinner Support bearings and the tranny is not locked up. .....But my focus is the SPIN DIRECTION Clutch Pulley CCW direction of the Clutch Pulley.
Can you pass back you results?
“”I am going to run thru test on pages 17 & 19 of SM and let you know what I find.””
""Went thru pages 17 & 19 of SM. Found no error codes in the Diagnostic Codes. All I got was "--", two dashes. Everything seemed to be normal for the displacement sensor test on page 19 of SM.””
“”All I got was "--", two dashes.”” That is very strange not to have any Diag Code blocks indicated is very unusual. I assume no one but you have touched the washer for maintenance is that correct?
The TDS check was part of my troubleshooting path for no error code to the LED Console display.............Dick 1st 2 didgets are 10 Tub will not turn by hand from large pulley mounted on bottom of tub assembly. pulley does move in a CCW direction (as if you were looking straight up from the bottom the of washer) and turns each of the agitators mounted in tub. Pulley rotates just a few turns in a CW direction (again, as if looking stright up from the bottom) then locks up. Grrrrrrr Your assumption is correct, no one else has worked on this machine. It has worked flawlessly for about 5 yrs now.
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Originally Posted by: dsouder 1st 2 didgets are 10
Tub will not turn by hand from large pulley mounted on bottom of tub assembly. pulley does move in a CCW direction (as if you were looking straight up from the bottom the of washer) and turns each of the agitators mounted in tub. Pulley rotates just a few turns in a CW direction (again, as if looking stright up from the bottom) then locks up. Grrrrrrr
Your assumption is correct, no one else has worked on this machine. It has worked flawlessly for about 5 yrs now. OK good news a Series 10 or 11. If an Outer Tub rebuild is required it's a bit more straight forward.But let's keep troubleshooting. I always reference from looking down thru the washer lid as to what Clutch Pulley rotation is required to make the wash basket as viewed thru the Washer Lid to spin CCW. Anyway I would drop the Clutch pulley out of the machine and then see if you can rotate the wash basket CCW as viewed and tried by hand thru the washer lid.You can use my sticky notes from the other forum or follow this thread Maytag Neptune load unbalance for removing the Clutch Pulley. Let stay in this forum if you decide to continue to work toward saving your machine.Once you remove the Clutch Pulley and the Upper Bearing ring, make sure that drops out with the Clutch Pulley. At that point the wash basket should rotate (in the Outer Tub bearings) both CCW the Spin direction and CW the direction it would not normally rotate because of the upper bearing ring. Does the wash basket now rotate CCW and CW?Let me know…………Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s OK good news a Series 10 or 11. If an Outer Tub rebuild is required it's a bit more straight forward.But let's keep troubleshooting. I always reference from looking down thru the washer lid as to what Clutch Pulley rotation is required to make the wash basket as viewed thru the Washer Lid to spin CCW. Anyway I would drop the Clutch pulley out of the machine and then see if you can rotate the wash basket CCW as viewed and tried by hand thru the washer lid.You can use my sticky notes from the other forum or follow this thread Maytag Neptune load unbalance for removing the Clutch Pulley. Let stay in this forum if you decide to continue to work toward saving your machine.Once you remove the Clutch Pulley and the Upper Bearing ring, make sure that drops out with the Clutch Pulley. At that point the wash basket should rotate (in the Outer Tub bearings) both CCW the Spin direction and CW the direction it would not normally rotate because of the upper bearing ring. Does the wash basket now rotate CCW and CW?Let me know…………Dick Have clutch pulley assembly out! Tub/Wash Basket now rotates in either direction without resistance. Have cleaned up clutch pulley assembly with WD40 and ready to lube & reassemble. Oh wait....what's the Upper Bearing Ring? What does it look like? Not sure what I am looking for.
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Originally Posted by: dsouder Have clutch pulley assembly out! Tub/Wash Basket now rotates in either direction without resistance. Have cleaned up clutch pulley assembly with WD40 and ready to lube & reassemble.
Oh wait....what's the Upper Bearing Ring? What does it look like? Not sure what I am looking for. Ok, have found upper bearing and it was frozen up. I had to tap the Spinner Shaft Coupler out after it set for awhile with the WD40. I have cleaned with WD40 and not sure if I can salvage it. I have not lubed upthe roller bearings with the slick 50 yet but when I reinsert the Spinner Shaft Coupler it hangs up again. Needless to say....it won't spin freeley yet. But will pack with slick 50 and try. Have to go for now and will return to repair later this afternoon. Thank you for your time and consideration. Sincerely, Dave
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Hey Dave, You may have a slight Tub Seal leak that may cause you issues down the road if you slap in a new Clutch Pulley. If you need to replace I would try to find this p/n 25001169 fo a replacement Clutch Pulley. It’s half the price and I can’t find any expert that could tell my why buy the $150+ Clutch Pulley......I’m all ears. See this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement for what it would take to rebuild the Outer Tub of your Series 10 machine………Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Hey Dave, You may have a slight Tub Seal leak that may cause you issues down the road if you slap in a new Clutch Pulley. If you need to replace I would try to find this p/n 25001169 fo a replacement Clutch Pulley. It’s half the price and I can’t find any expert that could tell my why buy the $150+ Clutch Pulley......I’m all ears. See this post FAV6800A/FAV9800A Outer Tub bearing replacement for what it would take to rebuild the Outer Tub of your Series 10 machine………Dick I have Clutch Pulley reinstalled, ran washer through a quick wash cycle....all works like new! Thank you so much for all your time and consideration! Sincerely, Dave
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Originally Posted by: dsouder I have Clutch Pulley reinstalled, ran washer through a quick wash cycle....all works like new!
Thank you so much for all your time and consideration! Sincerely, Dave Good Job Dave! Your fix may be temp. I'm really concerned about this; ""Ok, have found upper bearing and it was frozen up. I had to tap the Spinner Shaft Coupler out after it set for awhile with the WD40."" “”I'm finding at the 5th to 6th year the crappy excuse IMHO for a Tub Seal begins to leak. You contaminate the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches bearing as well as the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring and You contaminate the Outer Tub Bearings which on a Series 10 and 11 machine are very straight forward to replace.”” I have no long term service life expected reading this “”Ok, have found upper bearing and it was frozen up. I had to tap the Spinner Shaft Coupler out”” Get thru some backed up laundry. Down the road for the price of Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring, a Pair of 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearings around $60 and a $80 for a 25001169 a replacement Clutch Pulley you will get 5 years more service out of this $1k machine. I would recommend a good 120VAC service outlet surge protector to add a measure of protection for the Main Control Board and Motor Controller. Google Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW, I have started a post (5th post down) of Service Support for DIY owners regarding very common failure issues that can be easily corrected for the FAV6800A and FAV9800A TL’s. Good Luck..............Dick
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Originally Posted by: dh1200s Good Job Dave!
Your fix may be temp. I'm really concerned about this;
""Ok, have found upper bearing and it was frozen up. I had to tap the Spinner Shaft Coupler out after it set for awhile with the WD40.""
“”I'm finding at the 5th to 6th year the crappy excuse IMHO for a Tub Seal
begins to leak. You contaminate the Clutch Pulley One-Way Roller Clutches bearing as well as the Upper One-Way Roller Clutches bearing ring and You contaminate the Outer Tub Bearings which on a Series 10 and 11 machine are very straight forward to replace.””
I have no long term service life expected reading this “”Ok, have found upper bearing and it was frozen up. I had to tap the Spinner Shaft Coupler out””
Get thru some backed up laundry. Down the road for the price of Tub Seal, Tranny O-Ring, a Pair of 6207-2RS Outer Tub bearings around $60 and a $80 for a 25001169 a replacement Clutch Pulley you will get 5 years more service out of this $1k machine.
I would recommend a good 120VAC service outlet surge protector to add a measure of protection for the Main Control Board and Motor Controller. Google Neptune TL Washer FAV6800AWW, I have started a post (5th post down) of Service Support for DIY owners regarding very common failure issues that can be easily corrected for the FAV6800A and FAV9800A TL’s.
Good Luck..............Dick I will take your advice and replace the Tub Seal & Tranny O-Ring. After doing 4 loads of backed up laundry, I am begining to see some dampness in the bottom of the machine. And since the bearings had rust stains on them when removed from the machinge I'm possitive you are correct. Thanks again for all your help, support, & patients.
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I think you have a bearing issue. This would be located at the bottom of the tub. Where the pulley connects onto-Not the main tub but the spinnet bearing. To repair this you will have to remove just about everything to get the outer tub out of cabinet. Once you do, flip upside down so bottom of tub, motor are exposed. Your spinnet bearing is right in front of you. Remove drive belt and bolt that is securing the pulley onto the bearing. We're not talking about the actual tub bearing now, just the bearing under the pulley. Don't get carried away..Nowadays it comes as one complete unit. Usually number 5 on the order chart. Three pieces in one-new pulley, new bolt, new bearing already fitted inside of pulley. Good Luck..
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