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My Maytag dishwasher (MDB9100AWB) is not filling up with water regardless of what setting (cycle) I have selected. If left alone, the system will proceed through the entire cycle as if it had water (including opening the detergent door, drain expected water, and perform heated drying). I have performed the Automatic Function Test which passed without and fault codes. I checked the voltage at the water solenoid both connected and disconnected once the cycle starts and it does not appear to be getting its expected 120 VAC. I also performed a Manual Function Test to specifically check the water solenoind function but it did not respond when toggled (i.e.: valve did not actuate). In addition, I removed the control board cover and noticed that the two large resistors closest to the ribbon cable side of the board appear to have heated enough to have slightly discolored the PWBA surface beneath them (not sure if this is expected given its age). Is there a way to half split this problem as either a water solenoid issue or a control board issue? Is there a resitance check I can perform on the solenoid valve? Thank you
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Here are your parts, includes a wiring diagram. Replacement parts for MAYTAG MDB9100AWB DISHWASHER- UNDERCOUNTER | AppliancePartsPros.comYou have one more part in the water solenoid circuit and that is the float switch (Item 29 in Section 6). It is wired in series with the water valve. Check that the float is not stuck in the up position (switch not activated). If it is then take the unit apart inside the tub and clean it. Sometimes they can get gummed up If the switch is actuated check that it is actually close with an ohm meter. OR Check for 120 volts from the side of the solenoid that goes to the control board and the side of the float switch that goes to the control board. If you do not have voltage there then either the control board is toast or there is a break in one of the wires. |
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Thank you for the help. I tried testing the voltage at the float switch as well as at that water valve. In both cases, while in Manual Function Test mode as well as in Normal Wash Mode, the voltage was 5.5 VAC. The water valve never enabled. I check resistance of the float switch and it was at 880 Ohms closed and open circuit when the float was in the high position. Also, the float appeared to work smoothly; no binding. I re-ran the Automatic Function Test but had different results today. After completing one cycle of the test, the Clean LED and Keypad 7 LED continued to flash and the test was aborted. According to the documentation I have, this implies a failure of some sort. Can you tell me what (is the control panel)?
Any other ideas?
Thank you
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]I check resistance of the float switch and it was at 880 Ohms closed[/COLOR] This is way too high, it should be 0 ohms.
As a test remove power from the unit and the two wires that go to the switch. Short the two wires together and give it a try. You may have to tape the wires together so that they do not short to anything. If it now runs OK replace the switch ASAP as you are now without flood protection. I would not use the unit till the switch is replaced! [COLOR="DarkRed"] Can you tell me what (is the control panel)?[/COLOR] The control panel is Item 1 in Section 1. On many units this is basically the keypad but this unit looks like it is just the overlay for the keypad switches and that the actual switches are part of the PCB Assembly (control board) |
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What I am referring to is the following comment: After completing one cycle of the test, the Clean LED and Keypad 7 LED continued to flash and the test was aborted. According to the documentation I have, this implies a failure of some sort. Can you tell me what the failure is (is it the control panel that failed)?
What is the failure that the flashing LEDs is referring to? Is it the Control Panel or something else? Thanks
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Also, is there a way to test if the water solenoid valve is failed? I was told of a resistance check across the two leads (disconnected). Is that possible? What should I be reading for resistance?
Thanks
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[COLOR="DarkRed"]What is the failure that the flashing LEDs is referring to? Is it the Control Panel or something else?[/COLOR] Cannot say as I do not have the tech sheet but your analysis would seem correct to me.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]Also, is there a way to test if the water solenoid valve is failed? I was told of a resistance check across the two leads (disconnected). Is that possible? What should I be reading for resistance?[/COLOR] I am not sure what the resistance should be, they are normally around 1,000 ohms. Note: that this just tells you that the valve coil is OK even with a good coil the valve still may not open. Also there is a screen filter on the input side of the coil which can become plugged. I doubt this is your problem as you are not getting any voltage. Though you may want to check it's resistance just to be sure it has not blown the board. Also check the resistance from each side to the unit's frame, both should be infinite ohms.. |
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