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One service call said it was the ice maker and replaced the unit. The banging/clunking continues. Any ideas what it might be before I call them again?
I have been reading some of the old posting and I should add that the noise does not sound like a relay clicking. This is a loud, muffled bang/clunk, coming fron inside the unit, maybe the upper area.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 10/31/2007(UTC)
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Could be gremlins maybe, is there any timing or pattern to these noises?? You could lift the lever that turns off the ice maker temporarily to eliminate that possibility and see if the noises continue... I've heard compressors shutting off emit the sound you're describing but there always down below not up high... Are the temps normal with this unit?? (using a thermometer)
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Rank: Member
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I need to verify temps tonight but I have not seen any evidence of warm temps inside. I will also check the outside surface temp as well.
As for a pattern, I think it occurs when the unit cycles on. And I don't think this ice maker has the lever to lift to stop it, it's a key pad function. But I will disable the ice maker to eliminate that part of the equation.
I was hoping I would get an easy answer like, "ya, it's a common design flaw and can be fixed by replacing such-n-such part". Maybe someone has heard of this issue before. I'm holding out hope ;-)
Thanks for the start, I will report back tomorrow.
Jim
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Rank: Member
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Up-date - checked the internal temps and they appear to be very close to the set points (really need a themometer calibrated for that low range). And the outside surfaces are at room temp.
No pattern seen with the noise yet. Still have to turn off the ice maker next to see if that has any effect on the clunking. More to come.
Jim
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Rank: Member
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Even with the ice maker turned off, the noise continues. It seems to follow a pattern of occurring a few minutes after the unit cycles "ON". The noises are a banging/popping sound, 3-5 of them each cycle. I am guessing it is caused by thermal contraction/expansion. The noise is very loud at all hours of the day and night.
My question to the forum is - is this a design flaw of this GE model? Does anyone else have this problem?
Jim
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Rank: Member
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Looks like I stumped the experts with this one. If I do figure it out I'll let you know.
Jim
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Loud banging and popping noises comes from what you suspect expansion and contracting Usually happens in the defrost cycle because the liner is plastic and blown in foam and a tin cabinet so thin which amplifies the sound also if the frig is on cement tile or concrete it exaggerates the noise. As the temps in freezer rise from melting frost off the evap and going from below zero to 40 degrees above it's just the laws of physics happening Check your user guide there is a section about the different noises R134A refrigerators make. Friges are getting cheaper and cheaper. but more energy efficient. Another klunking noise would be coming from the compressor when it shuts off but that would be just one loud bang from an intenal spring broken. Whirlly noises are comonmg from the freon when it's flowing through the refrigerant lines. squeals and grinding noises come from fan motors.Bangs can also come from the water valve when it's shutting off. That pretty much covers the lesson in noise complaints. if it's not any of those maybe you got a lemon but good luck getting it exchanged
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 10/31/2007(UTC)
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One thing I've read in this forum is the positioning of the liquid line filter-drier being bent into a 45° angle to lessen any 'popping' noises.. (Tip from Frigidaire Tech Support) One could easily test this theory if you know what a filter-drier is to begin with and if you're careful enough not to crack or kink the tubing causing a rupture... The filter is located underneath the rear of the fridge in the compressor compartment, is approx. an inch wide and 4-6 inches long, typically copper construction, may be painted, may be clamped down to other tubing or cabinet wall, and will have at least one larger size tubing inlet and a smaller tubing outlet (real small diameter)... Note the original factory installation of the filter, if it's horizontal then you can bend the tubing in a way that places the filter in a diagonal position, try with the small tubing outlet on the downside of the angle first... Deepwater, only attempt this procedure if you're comfortable with this idea being mindful to unplug the unit first and not bending tubing in a way that it will be hit by a fan blade or rub against other tubing possibly causing a leak later on... Right now you have a noisy fridge but it still cools, better than no cooling at all... Cheers, kooler
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i know this is an old thread but i thought i'd mention that my GE fridge is doing the exact same thing as your deepwater. i've found that the damper control is broken. the door is broken free from it anyhow. i'll post back after i get a new one. 
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