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Hey there,
I have a three-year-old Kenmore Ultra Wash Quietguard dishwasher that blew its first thermal fuse the other day. I changed it, plus changed out the wires that came with it. Today (two days later), the new one blew.
I'm not sure what is causing these to blow all of a sudden, when it worked fine for close to three years. Should I be looking at changing another part or checking something else?
Thanks and have a good one!
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Something is drawing to many amps or is shorted out. First check the heater and the wires that connect to it. Often the wires are found burnt and not making a good contact. The next thing I would suspect is the motor, after that the control. If you have an amp meter you could test the start and run amps of the motor to make sure were are within spec. Most times this fuse fails during the heating cycle, investigate all of the heating components. ApplianceRepairLesson.com
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Here is a response from another regular "richappy" on this forum about fuses blowing.
It's been my experience that the fuse blows due to water temperature too low.
The control may sometimes heat the water at a bad time, like during motor start up. Raising the temperature of the inlet water and cleaning the tub with a 1/2 gallon of vinegar helps.
The install sheet for this unit recommends 120 degrees F. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Are you referring to the small fuse that is clipped to the side of the main control board in the control panel?
If so, it's a heater issue for sure. Depending on the age of your unit you may need a kit that replaces the heater and control panel at the same time because the new heater requires more power than the old circuit board can handle.
The strange thing is that the board/heater set usually costs less than just a heater or just a board. I have yet to figure that one out.
What does your heater look like? Is it covered in white powder or does it have a bunch of build up on it? That stuff insulates the heater, resulting in the unit working much harder to heat the water. Eventually it works so hard that the fuse gives out.
No they can't be cleaned.
If the manufacturer says to replace both board and heater, please don't try to just replace one or the other. That usually causes the board to be blown out, which is far worse than what you're dealing with now.
Good luck!
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If you have solution , please let me know too.
Kenmore dishwasher model 665 ultra wash.
5 thermal fuses blew the same way in the middle of rinse cycle number
2 with water heating activates.
I immediately opened the door and saw hot water still in the dishwasher. The hot water temperature was 55 Celsius. Hot water supply is 48 Celsius. I tested the thermal fuse at room temperature with heavy load 14 Amperes (by 56 VAC and load 4 ohm), it does not blow. This confirms that thermostat is o.k due to inside water did not reach Hi limit 77 C for it to open. It does not relate to thermistor for temperature sensor purpose in this case.
Heating element is 15 ohm, 122 Vac. So the current through heater is approx 8 Amperes.
I don’t know how much the surge current of motor, operating current and maximum. But the motor sound was normal during operation. Anyone know it
After I had immediately replaced the broken thermal fuse with a new one, the machine resumed without problem at the middle of this cycle (rinse with water heating). This new thermal fuse would blow again at this point in the next new wash.
I also noted the soft insulation strip 3 mm thickness, 1 cm which is used to shield the vent air conduit at the left top corner was deteriorated. I suspected this may let the steam air leak into the compartment containing electronic control unit, but heated water temperature was 55 C. What am I missing?
New wires came with thermal fuse kit were also replaced in.
Washing and hearting is o.k.
Question: why did the thermal fuse blow at 55 C ?
Next time I will measure the temperature at thermal fuse at inside air of control compartment during machine’s operation to find what causes problem.
Any idea will be appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: ScottsApplianceRepair  Are you referring to the small fuse that is clipped to the side of the main control board in the control panel?
If so, it's a heater issue for sure. Depending on the age of your unit you may need a kit that replaces the heater and control panel at the same time because the new heater requires more power than the old circuit board can handle.
I was not sure where to post this, but I thought it should be seen somewhere. I have a Kenmore 16033401 dishwasher, but I don't recall its exact age. I'd guess 5-8 years old. Like many before me, I had the thermal fuse blow for the first time about 8 months ago. Good thing I purchased 2 repair kits when the first fuse blew. It just did it again yesterday. I opened up the front panel, and this is what was melted to the plastic of the control board cover.   I tested the thermal fuse, and of course, it has opened. Good thing, too. I've never liked screw terminals of the sort supplied in the repair kit, but I followed the instructions the first time around. Well, the terminals were obviously a problem this time, and may just have been the source of heat that tripped the fuse. So this time, I spliced in some slightly heavier gauge wire, soldered the connections, and protected them with multiple layers of heat-shrink tubing. (not electrical tape, which I feel it strictly bush league.) I had to splice in additional wire to make up for what I cut out. If it happens again, I may go shopping for a new machine. I'm definitely not going to be running the machine when nobody is around. If anything happens, I want someone around to hear the smoke detectors going off. I'm not impressed with the repair kit for this one. -Wirecutter
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Have you found the ultimate cause of your problem. I had two fuses blow, and so I "temporarily" used a regular fuse (non-thermo) and I discovered the housing melted from heat.
So it appears heat from the washer is getting around the board - it can't be current heat.
I have ran the diagnostics twice consecutively to ensure everything was hot.
Any help appreciated.
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I see a miscommunication here. the heating element at the bottom of the washer is a drier. It is used for drying the dishes. It would have white build up and a control panel swap if changed. The first reply is refering to a input water temp heater, diff part.
If you knew that Im sorry. Thought I would try to help.
I would change the non thermal fuse again if you have one and run the machine with no drying. That would eliminate the dryer heating element as the cause if it still warped from heat. Increasing your water heater temp 10 F temporarily would reduce current draw to the other input water heater.
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rfagan I am assuming that yours is the same model as the original poster. See the attachment for the tech sheet. Here are your parts Parts for Kenmore Dishwasher 66513599K600 - AppliancePartsPros.comIf you go to the Sears parts site they should have part breakdown diagrams. They will not share these with other parts vendors. The heater is used for both drying the dishes and heating the water. [COLOR="Blue"] I discovered the housing melted from heat.[/COLOR] What housing? [COLOR="Blue"] So it appears heat from the washer is getting around the board - it can't be current heat.[/COLOR] Sorry but I do not understand the above. Do you mean that if you disconnect the heater at P6, it still heats up. Also I do not know what "current heat" means [COLOR="Blue"] I have ran the diagnostics twice consecutively to ensure everything was hot.[/COLOR] Since it melted a housing you know that it will turn on. The question is will it turn off? |
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My model number is 665.17042402. I temporarily used an automotive blade fuse to validate the TCO was going open due to heat and not the AC load current. The thermister measured OK at room temperature, so I will test while unit is still hot after a full cycle to ensure it reads lower. I may try removing the heater circuit (P6). Thanks.
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