Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Hi Joe,
Sounds like the new control board is defective. Get back to the people who sold it to you. They have to exchange it due to the part warranty.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/6/2011(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Thanks Gene, Just did that and they are ordering me replacement. Thanks for the reply!! Joe Originally Posted by: Gene  Hi Joe,
Sounds like the new control board is defective. Get back to the people who sold it to you. They have to exchange it due to the part warranty.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
You are welcome Joe. Keep us posted.
Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
I have model GSD5122F02BB. My dishwasher always pumped to drain, but never emptied completly. Then it TOTALLY stopped pumping to drain. My cone seal thing is totally gone (10 years!!). Bought the piston and nut. Overlooked 555 gasket and I can't find mine anywhere. Still pumps ZERO to drain. Now I wonder if I cycled it too much that I trashed the solenoid? Is that possible?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
The valve body gasket is very important so you may want to order it. If the drain pump works but does not drain, remove the drain pump and check the flapper(s). Also make sure the drain hoses are not clogged. The drain solenoid can be easy tested. If the steam goes freely up and down and coil tested for continuity fine then the solenoid is good. - The valve body gasket Part number: AP2038854
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Originally Posted by: Gene The valve body gasket is very important so you may want to order it. If the drain pump works but does not drain, remove the drain pump and check the flapper(s). Also make sure the drain hoses are not clogged. The drain solenoid can be easy tested. If the steam goes freely up and down and coil tested for continuity fine then the solenoid is good. - The valve body gasket Part number: AP2038854
Before I disconnect, pull the dishwasher out, tilt, and whatever else I need to do, I have a few questions: a) I was mistaking the pump for the solenoid. What is the solenoid and what does it do? I don't see it on the diagram. What does "steam (or stream) goes freely up and down" mean? b) Why didn't GE just pump through a hose straight to drain rather than piston & nut and the body valve with red flapper? c) Should I try cutting the wires to drain pump motor and supply with 120V to verify the pump runs?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
|
Originally Posted by: trader25b Before I disconnect, pull the dishwasher out, tilt, and whatever else I need to do, I have a few questions: a) I was mistaking the pump for the solenoid. What is the solenoid and what does it do? I don't see it on the diagram. What does "steam (or stream) goes freely up and down" mean? b) Why didn't GE just pump through a hose straight to drain rather than piston & nut and the body valve with red flapper? c) Should I try cutting the wires to drain pump motor and supply with 120V to verify the pump runs? a) The drain solenoid is shown on the following picture on the left side of the main pump. Some models don't use it at all, so I'm not sure if there is one in your dishwasher.  "Steam" was just typo. The correct word is "stem". b) You are asking a wrong person. Ask GE. c) You should check if it runs when it has to first. If it does not then you can apply 120 VAC straight to the drain pump terminals. Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 3/1/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
OK, so I bought a $10 quickie voltage tester which works great since you don't have to poke the wires. Yes, electrons are going to the motor as suspected. So today I finally had the time to tear out the dishwasher, and as I remembered correctly, it was locked in behind the subfloor so I had to chisel a bit of flooring away to get it out. Now to the simple part: there was a 1/3 piece of a flat glass bead 1" diameter decoration thing lodged in the pump impeller. Easy fix to remove it and all is well and everyone is happy. My wife washed those decoration things years ago in the silverware basket with the "lid" shut, but the bead still may have been pushed up. Whatever, it was probably in the dishwasher for years caught by a screen/filter, then when I cleaned out all the screens it probably fell down and made it's way to the pump. I'm just amazed the pump still runs after MANY cycles it had to endure without spinning! THANKS Gene.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/6/2011(UTC)
Posts: 6
|
Originally Posted by: Gene You are welcome Joe. Keep us posted.
Gene. Hey Gene, Sorry it took so long to reply, but you were exactly right. The control board (new one I had installed) was defective. Got a replacement and of course the drain pump started right up :-) Finally back in business and a little more knowledgeable to boot. Thanks much!!! Joe
|
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
