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Dishwasher is not washing items in the top rack, everything stays dirty. It appears water may not be reaching the top rotating arm. Sometimes soap film is being left on items in the lower rack. We used to have a lot of heat during the drying cycle. That does not happen anymore, everything is still "wet" hours later. I don't know if the heating element (visible in the bottom of the dishwasher) is working.
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Originally Posted by: drifterpilot  Dishwasher is not washing items in the top rack, everything stays dirty. It appears water may not be reaching the top rotating arm. Sometimes soap film is being left on items in the lower rack. We used to have a lot of heat during the drying cycle. That does not happen anymore, everything is still "wet" hours later. I don't know if the heating element (visible in the bottom of the dishwasher) is working. Drifter, It's not likely a bad heater element, but if you have a multi meter, once you remove the kickplate and lower access panel. Remove the wires from the heater terminals , check for 10 to 30 ohms resistance across the terminals. If your in range, the heater is OK. But based on the post description, you also need to check for a proper water fill level, check the float assembly, and make sure it moves freely and properly, up and down. Start the machine in a wash cycle, let it fill and wash for 3 to 5 minutes, unlatch the door lock and wait 30 seconds, open the door and check the water level in the bottom of the tub. By this time, the water level should be in contact with the bottom of the heater element(give or take 1/4 inch). If you don't have enough water, your upper most spray arm will not rotate properly and it won't break down the detergent properly and you'll get a milky film on the dishes, also if the water is not hot enough(120 dgrs in the tub on the first fill) you'll have a similar outcome and film. Let us know what else we can do to help, once you do these checks, :) :) :)
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I disconnected what I believed to be the wires to the heater terminals. A brown and brown/white wire and read them with a multimeter set on the 300 scale (ohms). Got a reading of 1.0 This is a lower reading than what you stated that I should get. I also did the following as you recommended: "Start the machine in a wash cycle, let it fill and wash for 3 to 5 minutes, unlatch the door lock and wait 30 seconds, open the door and check the water level in the bottom of the tub. By this time, the water level should be in contact with the bottom of the heater element (give or take 1/4 inch)." The water level float moves freely up and down and the water level filled right up to the underside of the heater element. Please advise on the next check. Thank you.
Read more: http://forum.appliancepartspros...p;p=367862#ixzz1FdlTmvlE
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Originally Posted by: drifterpilot I disconnected what I believed to be the wires to the heater terminals. A brown and brown/white wire and read them with a multimeter set on the 300 scale (ohms). Got a reading of 1.0 This is a lower reading than what you stated that I should get. I also did the following as you recommended: "Start the machine in a wash cycle, let it fill and wash for 3 to 5 minutes, unlatch the door lock and wait 30 seconds, open the door and check the water level in the bottom of the tub. By this time, the water level should be in contact with the bottom of the heater element (give or take 1/4 inch)." The water level float moves freely up and down and the water level filled right up to the underside of the heater element. Please advise on the next check. Thank you.
Drifter,
Sounds more like you tested the fill valve solenoid (brn and brn/wht) wires.
The heater element should have an Orange and a White wires attached, and it's hard to access, because it's in the rear of the tub assembly.
You can check the complete heater circuit from the control board in the control panel(on the control board connector, remove P6/white with a red stripe and P7 white with a purple stripe) across the wires in the connector(s) you should read 10 to 30 ohms resistance, if the hi limit switch, element and wiring are OK.
At this point, since we have a good fill level, and since the upper rack/spray arm aren' t cleaning, etc. and you most likely will find, the heater is OK,
I'm thinking 2 possibilities :
a) We may have a clog or malfunctioning component in the wash pump
assembly.
b) Your chemicals(detergent/ rinse aid) may be Foaming up and not allowing
the proper pressure in the pump to circulate properly.
After you re check the heater circuit resistance, we can take either direction as you think best.
:) :) :)
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I have the unit out from under the counter. I located the heater element terminals and checked them on the 300 scale of my meter. The display started about 180 and successively changed readouts climbing all the way up to 300 from whence it went back to 300 which then started "flashing." I did this three different times with pretty much the same results althought the numbers started climbing at different "starts." Never did see anything close to 10 - 30 ohms.
Checking the heater circuit. Don't see how I can open up the control panel which I assume is on the front top face where all the pushbuttons and lights are.
I did see a red/white wire and a orange wire going to a two terminal connector on the underside of the machine. I also have a purple/white wire going to one side of the heater element. I didn't check anything with these wires as I figured i should be reading them up in the control panel.
Does the control panel facing pop out?
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Originally Posted by: drifterpilot I have the unit out from under the counter. I located the heater element terminals and checked them on the 300 scale of my meter. The display started about 180 and successively changed readouts climbing all the way up to 300 from whence it went back to 300 which then started "flashing." I did this three different times with pretty much the same results althought the numbers started climbing at different "starts." Never did see anything close to 10 - 30 ohms.
Checking the heater circuit. Don't see how I can open up the control panel which I assume is on the front top face where all the pushbuttons and lights are.
I did see a red/white wire and a orange wire going to a two terminal connector on the underside of the machine. I also have a purple/white wire going to one side of the heater element. I didn't check anything with these wires as I figured i should be reading them up in the control panel.
Does the control panel facing pop out? Your almost there, Disconnect the purple / white wire from the element. disconnect the orange wire from the element terminal, then check your resistance across the element terminals, let us know what the resistance reading is. No, your control panel does not pop off, it is screwed in place by the 4 /6 screws across the upper area of the inner door panel, but since the unit is out and you can access the element, theres no need to access the panel/control board at this point. If the element tests proper, we're back to a problem in the pump or foaming in the tub during a wash cycle. :) :) :)
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OK, I pulled the two wires, purple/white and the orange wire from both heater elements. On the 300 scale, I get a reading of 145 and it climbs steadily all the way up to 300 and then stops and the 300 flashes steadily. I did this test previously 2 - 3 times.
I don't get a steady reading.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: drifterpilot OK, I pulled the two wires, purple/white and the orange wire from both heater elements. On the 300 scale, I get a reading of 145 and it climbs steadily all the way up to 300 and then stops and the 300 flashes steadily. I did this test previously 2 - 3 times.
I don't get a steady reading.
Thanks Drifter, We are getting resistance through the heater element, at this point, it's OK. Now, check the hi limit thermostat for a closed circuit(take the wires off, white / red and orange wire(remove the wires and check for a closed circuit on the terminals). I've attached a wiring diagram, so you'll have a better idea of the circuitry and operation, as well as being able to program a test cycle and make checks for circuits and voltage.  :) :) :)
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OK, I pulled the two wires and did a continuity check on the two terminals.
Got .0001 reading, same as touching the two probes together on the continuity scale.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: drifterpilot OK, I pulled the two wires and did a continuity check on the two terminals.
Got .0001 reading, same as touching the two probes together on the continuity scale.
Thanks Drifter, OK, the test indicates a closed circuit, that was on the thermostat ? Now, Put it all back together and get it back in the cabinet, and make all your electrical and water connections. Program into the diagnostic / test mode (pg 2 right half of the page). The last few seconds of the test mode, the heater should be energized and produce heat(after the test has ended, you should beable to each in and feel the warmth, or you can wet your finger and touch the element and her it sizzle, if we have power to the heater. A safer test , attach one of your meter probes to the red/white wire on the thermostat, the other probe to chassis ground, and check for 120 VAC on the wire, at the end of the test mode. Either test will varify if we have power to the element from the control board. :) :) :)
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