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I have had it with Sears NOW...
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Model: 665.13592K600 Brand: Kenmore Age: 1 - 5 years
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bbc3  
#1 Posted : Monday, January 24, 2011 5:44:48 AM(UTC)
bbc3

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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 20
Someone help please.

I have a CrapNmore dishwasher. I replaced one almost 2 years ago because the control panel went bad, and I did not want to take the chance in getting into a sorted mile long parts order scenario to rule out... NOW, the new dishwasher (less than 2 years old), is not working. All I did was reset the bastard to do some base cabinetry repairs.!?!?! Apparently they are sensitive, as in dont even look at it.....

Symptoms, first wife said all she could get was normal cycle. I said no, you didn't press that crappy little button pad correctly, and it worked right. Next day, NOTHING, no lights, no button response. So I am guessing another control panel is bad. One note is that she did point out that it no longer makes a "click" sound when unpluged and plugged back in?!!? For whatever thats worth.

I am savvy enough that if anyone here has any suggestions, and even inclusive of some soldering on the board, I am up for it. I just dont know where to start with all the circuitry. Any help greatly appreciated....:)
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, January 25, 2011 7:10:28 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: bbc3 Go to Quoted Post
Someone help please.

I have a CrapNmore dishwasher. I replaced one almost 2 years ago because the control panel went bad, and I did not want to take the chance in getting into a sorted mile long parts order scenario to rule out... NOW, the new dishwasher (less than 2 years old), is not working. All I did was reset the bastard to do some base cabinetry repairs.!?!?! Apparently they are sensitive, as in dont even look at it.....

Symptoms, first wife said all she could get was normal cycle. I said no, you didn't press that crappy little button pad correctly, and it worked right. Next day, NOTHING, no lights, no button response. So I am guessing another control panel is bad. One note is that she did point out that it no longer makes a "click" sound when unpluged and plugged back in?!!? For whatever thats worth.

I am savvy enough that if anyone here has any suggestions, and even inclusive of some soldering on the board, I am up for it. I just dont know where to start with all the circuitry. Any help greatly appreciated....:)



BBC,

Here's a couple of checks to make,

Check and make sure you have 120 VAC at the junction box on the lower frame, behind the lower kick plate / access panel.

You'll need to access the control board and control panel, and other components.

visually inspect the thermal fuse, and control board, if you have a multi meter, check the fuse for a closed circuit,

Part number: AP3115186
Part number: AP3115186


Next, check the door switch assembly, switches and wiring for circuits,and damage.

Part number: AP3103581
Part number: AP3103581


I don't think you'll need a control board, but ,

Disconnect the touch pad ribbon from the control board, clean the insertion end of the ribbon tracer with alcohol, I do the same on the connector on the control board, be careful, once the ribbon is dry, make sure you insert it tightly into the board connector.

The control board would be the last resort,

If all checks are OK, replace the control panel key pad assembly, first,

Part number: AP3885274
Part number: AP3885274


:) :) :)
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bbc3  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, January 26, 2011 10:10:02 PM(UTC)
bbc3

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 20
Thanks for the most informative post. I will feedback when completed.:)

Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
BBC,

Here's a couple of checks to make,

Check and make sure you have 120 VAC at the junction box on the lower frame, behind the lower kick plate / access panel.

You'll need to access the control board and control panel, and other components.

visually inspect the thermal fuse, and control board, if you have a multi meter, check the fuse for a closed circuit,

Part number: AP3115186
Part number: AP3115186


Next, check the door switch assembly, switches and wiring for circuits,and damage.

Part number: AP3103581
Part number: AP3103581


I don't think you'll need a control board, but ,

Disconnect the touch pad ribbon from the control board, clean the insertion end of the ribbon tracer with alcohol, I do the same on the connector on the control board, be careful, once the ribbon is dry, make sure you insert it tightly into the board connector.

The control board would be the last resort,

If all checks are OK, replace the control panel key pad assembly, first,

Part number: AP3885274
Part number: AP3885274


:) :) :)
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Joe / APP Team  
#4 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 7:13:11 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

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Originally Posted by: bbc3 Go to Quoted Post
Thanks for the most informative post. I will feedback when completed.:)



BBC,

Great,
Will keep an eye out for your post.

:) :) :)
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bbc3  
#5 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 11:58:50 AM(UTC)
bbc3

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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 20
My digital ohm meter reads "1" when the leads are separated. I think I recall that to be infinite or open. When I apply the leads to the thermal fuse it remains at "1". A quick test of the meter leads togther quickly "zeros it out". So if my basic knowledge of fuses ( and I think you called it a fuse) stands, there is no circuit accross there, which means no signal or electricity can pass correctly. Am I on target.?? Or is this more a a resistor that I need to use more refined settings on my meter for.??

If The part needs replacing, can I jump around it in the meanwhile? Is it merely a capacitor, or resistor??

Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
BBC,

Great,
Will keep an eye out for your post.

:) :) :)
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bbc3  
#6 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 12:10:51 PM(UTC)
bbc3

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Posts: 20
Further I am thinking this a is thermal cutoff type breaker (as you probably said:D ) and trying to discern the identity of it. I am guessing by the number on the side it is(TF 098C) a 98 degree celc. temp rated.

So the question remains, is the basic open or closed circuit test valid. I apologize as the way you worded what to check for was unclear to my interpretation. I read another post where the guy said his meter went to 1.5 ( analoge assuming). So recalling, they close down from infinited in descending. His was ok, so it would have remained at high number i guess if not. Same as "1" on my digital one.... Sorry so long just trying to get it...:)

Further, I think I am on target. I am also guessing I dont need to run it without the breaker in line as something caused it to overheat. Could be just a cumulative time bomb DESiGNED by Whirpool/sears.. I am pretty sure. I'll be that was the damn problem with my last board. Too bad I was not here for that one. It was a gas range before and thats 2WICE you guys bailed me out..!!I cant tell you guys how helpful you have been.

Thanks a bunch Joe....!!!

Originally Posted by: bbc3 Go to Quoted Post
My digital ohm meter reads "1" when the leads are separated. I think I recall that to be infinite or open. When I apply the leads to the thermal fuse it remains at "1". A quick test of the meter leads togther quickly "zeros it out". So if my basic knowledge of fuses ( and I think you called it a fuse) stands, there is no circuit accross there, which means no signal or electricity can pass correctly. Am I on target.?? Or is this more a a resistor that I need to use more refined settings on my meter for.??

If The part needs replacing, can I jump around it in the meanwhile? Is it merely a capacitor, or resistor??
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Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 1:31:29 PM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

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Originally Posted by: bbc3 Go to Quoted Post
Further I am thinking this a is thermal cutoff type breaker (as you probably said:D ) and trying to discern the identity of it. I am guessing by the number on the side it is(TF 098C) a 98 degree celc. temp rated.

So the question remains, is the basic open or closed circuit test valid. I apologize as the way you worded what to check for was unclear to my interpretation. I read another post where the guy said his meter went to 1.5 ( analoge assuming). So recalling, they close down from infinited in descending. His was ok, so it would have remained at high number i guess if not. Same as "1" on my digital one.... Sorry so long just trying to get it...:)

Further, I think I am on target. I am also guessing I dont need to run it without the breaker in line as something caused it to overheat. Could be just a cumulative time bomb DESiGNED by Whirpool/sears.. I am pretty sure. I'll be that was the damn problem with my last board. Too bad I was not here for that one. It was a gas range before and thats 2WICE you guys bailed me out..!!I cant tell you guys how helpful you have been.

Thanks a bunch Joe....!!!



BBC,

Not only are you on target, it's a Bullseye.

As for bypassing the fuse,

It is a "safety" device, it can be done for testing purposes, but that should be the limit. But you decide, safety or convenience.

Remeber,

Check and make sure all the wire connections are tight,especially at the junction box, and the new fuse.

You have a 3 prong, polarized, grounded outlet, with at least 105 VAC when the dishwasher is running, and a 3 prong power cord.

Thanks,

:) :) :)
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bbc3  
#8 Posted : Thursday, January 27, 2011 7:14:39 PM(UTC)
bbc3

Rank: Member

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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 20
So now I am gonna give back a little. The repairs went :) well but I have a few notes of advice to offer...

1. When dealling with a disassembled dishwasher, DONT screw the door opening lever in prior to putting on the inside wall panel (water side). BECAUSE, when you let it spring/slam shut, just as you are figuring out that the handle mounts underneath the inside plastic panel (nice test), the metal mechanism will go in too far locking the door closed creating a puzzle box with no entry:eek: ..

Second, if you are a crafty one and try to replace the temperature breaker yourself, DONT SOLDER IT. Its temperature sensitive... DUH. Actually I did not make that mistake thanks to the electronics shop owner... It comes with 2 aluminum sleeves for crimping. At any rate, the 10$ part (available here)may be worth the order if you can wait....:)

It works great so thanks again. What really disturbs me is that I have no doubt in my mind that this is what was wrong with my last model, and this is by design. So essentially the auto parts war of the 70s is reborn by WHIRLPOOL themselves. AND I bought a dishwasher FOR NOTHING last time....:( But not again. Thanks/.

Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Go to Quoted Post
BBC,

Not only are you on target, it's a Bullseye.

As for bypassing the fuse,

It is a "safety" device, it can be done for testing purposes, but that should be the limit. But you decide, safety or convenience.

Remeber,

Check and make sure all the wire connections are tight,especially at the junction box, and the new fuse.

You have a 3 prong, polarized, grounded outlet, with at least 105 VAC when the dishwasher is running, and a 3 prong power cord.

Thanks,

:) :) :)
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Joe / APP Team  
#9 Posted : Friday, January 28, 2011 6:06:11 AM(UTC)
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: bbc3 Go to Quoted Post
So now I am gonna give back a little. The repairs went :) well but I have a few notes of advice to offer...

1. When dealling with a disassembled dishwasher, DONT screw the door opening lever in prior to putting on the inside wall panel (water side). BECAUSE, when you let it spring/slam shut, just as you are figuring out that the handle mounts underneath the inside plastic panel (nice test), the metal mechanism will go in too far locking the door closed creating a puzzle box with no entry:eek: ..

Second, if you are a crafty one and try to replace the temperature breaker yourself, DONT SOLDER IT. Its temperature sensitive... DUH. Actually I did not make that mistake thanks to the electronics shop owner... It comes with 2 aluminum sleeves for crimping. At any rate, the 10$ part (available here)may be worth the order if you can wait....:)

It works great so thanks again. What really disturbs me is that I have no doubt in my mind that this is what was wrong with my last model, and this is by design. So essentially the auto parts war of the 70s is reborn by WHIRLPOOL themselves. AND I bought a dishwasher FOR NOTHING last time....:( But not again. Thanks/.



BBC,

Thanks for the update, and your observation information.

Great job,

We're happy that you're happy,

Contact APP Repair Forum anytime, there's always someone here who can help.

:) :) :)
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bbc3  
#10 Posted : Sunday, February 27, 2011 12:46:39 PM(UTC)
bbc3

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Joined: 2/20/2010(UTC)
Posts: 20
Hello all,

Hope all is well with everyone. Seems my problems are not so easily resolved. The thermal fuse has blown 3 times now since I resolved the problem at the time of the last post here. So the issue seems to be, what is causing the thermal fuse to blow?

(1) I dont think there are any dwelling/house electrical issues contributing. I am getting about 118volts A/C at the outlet. One note is that it is an outlet on the same house breaker with other outlets in line. I believe the vacuum cleaner may even be run from time to time in this circuit. Was not thinking that was related though, as this is a "thermal" fuse.

(2) I have been using the "sani-rinse" which I believe heats the water pretty good in an extended rinse cylce. I am going to try to stop using that cycle and see if it helps. But really, shouldn't I be able to use it? So is it a programming problem on the main board chip??

Possible solutions: I was thinking maybe slightly insulate the thermal fuse to give some buffer. Or even get a fuse with a higher temp. This one is 90 Celcius, which I believe converts to 210 degrees F, or right below boiling. So perhaps get the next one up? Seems like while it would allow for too much heat potentially, it would still shut it down prior to total meltdown?!?

Any thoughts greatly appreciated. Joe?

Thanks in advance.
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