I have a Whirlpool dryer (LER7646EQ1) that's about 13 years old. About three years ago I replaced the high thermal fuse (IIRC) after it tripped. Ended up cleaning out the semi-clogged dryer vent that appeared to have caused the fuse to trip. A layer of lint had collected in the bottom of the dryer chassis & I tried to vacuum out as much as I could from the back.

This past weekend my better & smarter half put in a load of laundry, hit the start button, and heard nothing. She did smell the heating elements powered up and the interior light would come on, but there was no motion. I suspect the motor has finally died. I've moved the dryer from the laundry area out to the garage (so that I have room to take it apart). Is there any way I can test the motor to see if it's shot without having to plug it back in? Should I check the thermal fuses just to be sure they didn't trip, too?

Also, if I'm going to replace the motor, what other parts should I be replacing while I have it apart?

Many thanks for the reply!



Ok, I asked my better half for some more details, and she did say the dryer was "humming" when she tried to start it. She left it on for about 15 seconds before she realized it wasn't going to start. When she opened up the dryer door she could smell that the heating elements had been on and heat was radiating from the area where the coils sit.



Ok, I took the heating element assembly loose, disconnected the wires and measured the following:

• Between the two heating element terminals = 9.7 ohm
  
• Between the terminals and the cover = 3.5 ohm and 6.3 ohm

When I took the heating element assembly off I noticed it looked like the elements had gotten hot enough to deform the metal separator between them. It appears this is now causing one of the element coils to contact the cover they're attached to. (See attached pics.)

At this point I'm guessing motor tried to start but did not come on; thus, the drum did not turn. The heating elements did come on, but without the motor turning the blower there was no air to take the heat away from the coils and they started to over-heat.

So, now I have another problem/question: do I need to replace the heating elements?

I also found another odd thing when I pulled the back off: if you look at the third pic (where the power cord connects to the terminals on the back of the dryer) you'll see the left lead on the cord has started to corrode and the insulation partially pulled away. There does not appear to be any corrosion, etc. on the dryer terminal lead. Not sure what to make of that.



Ok. How would I check the motor with the multimeter?



OK, I checked the upper thermal fuse. Which others should I check? Do I just check them for continuity to see if they're good?



I can do the cleaning of the chassis, blower wheel, etc. easy enough. Which specific parts should I order to give it an overhaul (belt, rollers, etc.)?

Again, many thanks for the help!

[COLOR="DarkRed"]do I need to replace the heating elements?[/COLOR]
Yes you will have to replace the heater assembly as it is grounded.
Even if you could un-ground the coil once they overheat/warp they are weaker so odds are it will just happen again at a lower temperature.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]you'll see the left lead on the cord has started to corrode and the insulation partially pulled away.[/COLOR]
It looks like it has over heated and has started to melt.
The power cord should also be replaced.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]Ok. How would I check the motor with the multimeter?[/COLOR]
It is a bit of a pain. In order to check you will have to disconnect the 6M and 4M wires. Make a note where they go as you do not want to reconnect them wrong. Then measure the windings to 4M, see the wiring diagram. Them measure from the connections to the motor case all should be open (infinite ohms), this is to see if a winding has shorted to ground.
This just tells you that it is OK electrically, it may still have a mechanical problem.
Rotate the armature to see if the bearings are OK.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]OK, I checked the upper thermal fuse. Which others should I check? Do I just check them for continuity to see if they're good?[/COLOR]
Check them all. They should all measure 0 ohms.

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I can do the cleaning of the chassis, blower wheel, etc. easy enough. Which specific parts should I order to give it an overhaul (belt, rollers, etc.)?[/COLOR]
Check the roller's bearings and their shafts for wear and slop.
Check the belt for cracks.
[COLOR="DarkRed"]
Another data point: I did NOT get continuity across the thermal fuse (thin, white piece of plastic attached to the back of the blower wheel cover). Could that be the source of the problem? Or, is it just another symptom?
This is the fuse that will stop the motor from running.[/COLOR]
Cannot say 100% why it blew. Could be that the grounded heating element got so hot that it blew the fuse, could be your clogged vent.

If you have to replace the motor do not be surprised if you also have to replace th blower wheel, Often they seize onto the motor shaft and the only way to get them off is to break them.
http://www.applianceaid.com/wpmotor-change.html