Originally Posted by: jlamey 
Gene,
I replaced the control board and the relay board and the same symptons and problems exist as previously stated. The new control board display the clock and temperature setting and this remains illuminated continuously without power interruption. If I press "Bake" and then set temperature to say 400, everythings sounds like it is going to work properly however, I notice the heating elements never get hot and within 10-20 seconds I hear a small click and the oven light (if the door is open) turns off at the same time the microwave switch power turns off. What other electrcial components are in the system that could malfunction and cut power as described? Is there a thermostat or fuse that could become defective and cause this?
J,
For what it's worth,
I'm thinking a few possibilities.
1) Your microwave receptacle/fuse, should not be connected to the relay board. the red wire from the assembly should be attached to the L2(Red) terminal of the terminal block(where your power from the wall attach) on the back wall of the wall oven.
*** this is the only "common" connection between the wall oven and micro wave.
2) You should have solved your dim display or blank display by replacing both, the relay board, and ERC/Clock.
Unless you have a bad J1 harness(4 wire harness between relay board and ERC/Clock) possible, but not likely.
3) There are no fuses, thermostats, etc in the wiring harness that controls the power to the unit(s).
At this point, I believe,
A) You have a loose connection on one or all of the wires attached to the terminal block.
B) You have a bad crimp, or frayed Black(L1) or Red(L2) wire going to or at the relay board.
But,
I honestly believe you have a power supply problem, in the house wiring, to the unit.
Can you get another VOM/multi meter,you'll need two.
Once you've checked and tightenned the wiring connections,
Attach one set of meter leads to N and L1, and the other meter leads from N to L2, then reset the breakers and check your voltage.
Program and operate either component(oven or micro) and observe your meters.
a) If one power leg rises and the other drops, you most likely have a bad neutral leg in the house wiring(I think that's what you'll find).
b) If only one power leg drops, That leg is weak or loose in the wall/breaker box.
c) If you achieve correct and steady voltage at the terminal block,and either unit still has the problem, you'd have to consider a complete wiring harness for the unit.
Good Luck,
:) :) :)