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It should heat no matter what as long as it is in defrost mode. it should glow red like an oven element would. at least that is what mine does now that i have replaced the element. having said that I think you have ruled out your adc board being bad. I think you have the same problem I had with mine. the heating element. its pretty easy to install. the whole evaporator assembly comes off or away from the back wall by just applying some outward pressure to release it from its clips. then there are 2 spring clips that hold the heater element in place on the bottom. feed the new wiires up along the side and install the old clips to hold the element in place. be careful not to bend to many fins on the evaporator but they can be straightened out after you install the evap. Good Luck
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OK great. I will go ahead and order the defrost heater.
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Originally Posted by: jarndt923  OK great. I will go ahead and order the defrost heater. good.......let us know how you make out Vic
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Originally Posted by: jarndt923 OK great. I will go ahead and order the defrost heater. Jarndt, Grenstreet, Gentlemen, I guess my previous post did not register ??? Vic, THANKS for picking up my slack, you were right on the $$$. Jarndt, We know your ADC board is working, it went into the test mode. But the thermostat was probably open, due to no frost/ice on the evaporator coil and did not turn the heater on. But, we already know you need a defrost heater assembly, you had an open circuit(no resistance)when you circuit tested it(you should have had 20 to 30 ohms resist). Like you stated, order the heater, and you'll be up and running in no time, Be careful, the evaporator coil fins are very sharp, Let us know when you're up and running. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Before I order the defrost heater, is there any way to test to see if the new defrost fan will run properly? I have already tested the new fan plugged into an outlet and it ran fine. Once hooked up in the fridge/freezer it doesn't run. I only get 90 volts when probing the yellow and brown wires with the (neg. black probe) on the brown. When testing the yellow and brown wires with the (neg. black probe) on the yellow I get no volts. There are extra wires on my new defrost thermostat.(orange and brown). These are suppose to be test wires. How would I go about testing this and what is it testing, the fan? Would there be any relays that might be bad? It seems like the defrost fan should work without the heater even being connected.
Thanks
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Originally Posted by: jarndt923 Before I order the defrost heater, is there any way to test to see if the new defrost fan will run properly? I have already tested the new fan plugged into an outlet and it ran fine. Once hooked up in the fridge/freezer it doesn't run. I only get 90 volts when probing the yellow and brown wires with the (neg. black probe) on the brown. When testing the yellow and brown wires with the (neg. black probe) on the yellow I get no volts. There are extra wires on my new defrost thermostat.(orange and brown). These are suppose to be test wires. How would I go about testing this and what is it testing, the fan? Would there be any relays that might be bad? It seems like the defrost fan should work without the heater even being connected.
Thanks Hi the new fan works if you connnect it to an 110 volt outlet ,right? That proves the fan works. you should read 110-120 volts at the yellow wire with your red lead and the black lead should be on ground or the green wire. this is with the fan disconnected and just read on the harness or probe the wire which ever you prefer. the green wire should run back to the body of the freezer to a little silver clip on the right side. make sure that clip is clipped on good. if you have an alligator clip on the end of your black probe it makes the job easier. the fan wont run without the heater hooked up because it completes the circuit along with the defrost thermostat. dont worry about the test wires on the thermostat. I would imagine they are for ohm testing the thermostat only. And if the heater is bad by being cracked it reduces the voltage to the fan. Mine was reduced to 45 volts. After the heater was installed it went back to normal. I know it can drive you crazy and I went two weeks tring to figure this out but thank God for this forum and especially Joe who was really a big help. If you do an ohm check and are not getting the right reading then it is the heater. One more thing , i did an ohm check on mine the first time and got a good reading but after i hooked everything back up the fan would run for about an hour then would slow down and eventually stop and that was because the heater was cracked where i couldnt see it and when the freezer got cold it would contract and cause a loose connection so to speak and down went the voltage. its been running fine since putting the new heater in. Yours will Too.
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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Hi
the new fan works if you connnect it to an 110 volt outlet ,right? That proves the fan works. you should read 110-120 volts at the yellow wire with your red lead and the black lead should be on ground or the green wire. this is with the fan disconnected and just read on the harness or probe the wire which ever you prefer. the green wire should run back to the body of the freezer to a little silver clip on the right side. make sure that clip is clipped on good. if you have an alligator clip on the end of your black probe it makes the job easier. the fan wont run without the heater hooked up because it completes the circuit along with the defrost thermastat. dont worry about the test wires on the thermastat. I would imagine they are for ohm testing the thermastart only. And if the heater is bad by being cracked it reduces the voltage to the fan. Mine was reduced to 45 volts after the hater was installed it went back to normal. I know it can drive you crazy and I went two weeks tring to figure this out but thank God for this forum and especially Joe who was really a big help. If you do an ohm check and are not getting the right reading then it is the heater. One more thing , i did an ohm check on mine the first time and got a good reading but after i hooked everything back up the fan would run for about an hour then would slow down and eventually stop and that was because the heater was cracked where i couldnt see it and when the freezer got cold it wounl contract and cause o loose connection so to speak and down went the voltage. its been running fine since putting the new heater in. Yours will Too. Grenstreet, You've learned and understand a lot about the defrost system in your unit. And electrical theory and operation. I don't imagine you're going to need any help on future appliance repairs, not elecrical , any way. Jarndt, I couldn't put it any better than Grenstreet, without repeating everything he's already said. (and probably not as well). Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: Joe / APP Team Grenstreet,
You've learned and understand a lot about the defrost system in your unit.
And electrical theory and operation. I don't imagine you're going to need any help on future appliance repairs, not elecrical , any way.
Jarndt,
I couldn't put it any better than Grenstreet, without repeating everything he's already said.
(and probably not as well).
Good Luck,
:) :) :) Thanks Joe
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Originally Posted by: grenstreet Thanks Joe Hey, You deserve it, And you're very welcome, It's been a pleasure, really. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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I ordered the new defrost heater yesterday. I received it today, installed it and so far all is working fine. So happy to see the defrost fan spin again. The old heater was definitely bad. It had a cracked burned spot at the bend. Thanks for all your help. I was about to give up after buying the new defrost fan and defrost thermostat and not having it work. You gave me the confidence to keep going. I'm now glad I spent a little more on the heater to finally get the fridge working again. Again thanks for all your help.
Jim
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