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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LTE6234AW1 | AppliancePartsPros.com

First thing to check is the power. The heating coil requires the full 240 volts.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

Next would be the heating coil. Should be about 12 ohms.
If the timer advances in timed dry but does not advance in an auto cycle then this points to the heater being blown.

All thermostats and cut-offs should be 0 ohms.

Then the thermal cut-off on the blower (Item 50 in Section 4). If this is blown then be sure to clean/check your vent system as it is the most common cause of it blowing.

Then the thermal cut-off on the heater (Item 47 in Section 4). If this is blown there are other things that should be checked before replacing it.

Then check the main cycling thermostat (Item 42in Section 4) and the hi-limit thermostat (Item 48 in Section 4).

If the thermal cut-off (Item 47 in Section 4) is blown there are other things you should check.

Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

Just in case it is not a grounded element.
With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
Check that the belt is OK.
Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
Check/clean your vent system.
Check/clean the blower wheel.

If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)

I replaced the thermostat and thermal cutt off. The dryer started working fine. After the dryer was working about an hour I heard a pop..and electrical pop..and could see the flickers between the cracks of the panels on the dryer so I immediately turned it off..the dryer was very dirty and I had vaccumed it out as best I could while it was taken apart. ( the timer switch isnt working, hasnt been since the first time I used it). Now what ? Help..plz..:(

It is a grounded element..I have it open now and the dryer is workin fine. No sparks this morning..so far but just turned it on..could it have been lint or something?

thanks for all the help. Its running fine at the moment..idk