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Heater problem.
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Model: GU2500XTPQ6 Brand: Whirlpool Age: 1 - 5 years
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fapel  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 2:08:55 PM(UTC)
fapel

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NO Heat and clean light blinking 7 times:

Checked resistance on the Thermistor (60), Hi-Temp (0) & Element (10). All check out within specs. Checked door switches, they were OK too. Ran through Diag Cycle to heat cycle. No heat.

I am guessing that leaves the circuit board? Is there any way to check that? Or is there anything else I missed?

Thanks for your help!!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Monday, January 10, 2011 1:14:52 AM(UTC)
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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU2500XTPQ6 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet, see the attachment.

You have basically checked it out.
As an additional check you may want to measure from the NO side of door switch to P6 on the control board. If (with the switch closed) you read the element resistance then you know all the wiring is OK and all that is left is the control board.

Since you have done the troubleshooting you may want to consider ordering from AppliancePartsPros. See their return policy.

Note: I do not work for them, I just try to help a few people out on this site.
File Attachment(s):
GU2500.pdf (168kb) downloaded 21 time(s).
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fapel  
#3 Posted : Monday, January 10, 2011 6:17:56 AM(UTC)
fapel

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Thank you so much for the QUICK reply and the PDF. Very handy to have it in PDF form!

I'll double-check the wiring when I get home tonight (thanks for the suggestion), but I'm fairly confident that the wiring is OK. I need to get this fixed as quick as possible - my wife has to do dishes by hand until it's working again (god forbid!).

UPDATE: Couldn't get the Switch-to-control-board to give me any kind of reading (I'm sure I was doing something wrong) so, I gave up and just went ahead and ordered the control board 2nd day air from AppliancePartsPros. Didn't really want to spend the $100 on this particular machine, but if it works, I'll be ecstatic!

Thanks again!
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fapel  
#4 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 5:47:29 PM(UTC)
fapel

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The new control board didn't do a thing. I am now at a complete loss. I ripped everything apart again and double-checked everything. All parts are still withing the specs. I am now going to order a Thermistor, Hi-Limit, and Element and replace them one-by-one. I just don't know what else to do. Any other part I should add while I'm at it?

Man, this is so frustrating!
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denman  
#5 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 2:15:30 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Couldn't get the Switch-to-control-board to give me any kind of reading (I'm sure I was doing something wrong) so, I gave up[/COLOR]
Perhaps you were not doing anything wrong and your problem is in this area.
I have seen where wires can break internally and you do not see any evidence of it just by looking at it.
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fapel  
#6 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 4:43:21 AM(UTC)
fapel

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Thank you denman.

When you say, "As an additional check you may want to measure from the NO side of door switch to P6 on the control board." Can you tell me exactly where P6 is, and where the NO side of the 2 swithces is. I want to be exactly sure I am doing it right. Aand do I do the test with all the wiring attached to the control board still, or do I pull the wires and only test the wires or only test the control board.

Thanks for your help
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denman  
#7 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 5:12:30 AM(UTC)
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[COLOR="Green"]Can you tell me exactly where P6 is, and where the NO side of the 2 swithces is. I want to be exactly sure I am doing it right.[/COLOR]
P6 should be a single connector. I cannot read the all the printing on the board but it should be marked. It should be a White/Red wire.
The switch wire should be a White/Violet. See the door switch on the upper right of the wiring diagram.

[COLOR="Green"] Aand do I do the test with all the wiring attached to the control board still, or do I pull the wires and only test the wires or only test the control board.[/COLOR]
I would pull the P6 connection. Then measure from it to the switch. You are then measuring the hi-limit, the heater and the wiring so you should see around 20 ohms.

Then move your meter to the other side of the switch and manually close it.
You should again see the 20 ohms.

I think that the switch is your problem. As you can see it is wired in series with the heater so if it does not close you will not get heat.

Hope I explained this a little better.
If it still does not make sense just get back to me and I will try again.
Checking circuitry is like a second nature to me so when I do things without really thinking is seems that it is hard to explain it to someone else.
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fapel  
#8 Posted : Monday, January 17, 2011 5:59:09 PM(UTC)
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OK. Got a new Thermistor, Hi Temp and coil. Plugged them all in. Doesn't work. So, I unplugged the Thermistor and it works. Put all the old parts back in. Doesn't work. Unplugged the thermistor again and it works.

Help!!!
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denman  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, January 18, 2011 2:32:20 AM(UTC)
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If the thermistors check out OK for resistance and the odds are very high that they will then all I can think of is that the control board is shot.

It is mis-interpreting the resistance from the thermistor.
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fapel  
#10 Posted : Tuesday, January 18, 2011 7:31:20 AM(UTC)
fapel

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The first thing I tried was a new circuit board. :(

Maybe I'll try it again, now that it's all back together.

Thanks for hanging in there with me!
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