Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KENMORE 36350227000 | AppliancePartsPros.com[COLOR="Sienna"]My question is, if I understand correctly, the timer runs constantly and would continue advancing even if the heater is bad.[/COLOR]
It is actually a GE unit so getting tech info on it is difficult so cannot tell how the defrost timer is hooked up.. GE likes to keep everything a secret.
You are correct that the heater will not stop the timer.
The timer can be hooked up in one of two ways.
1. It runs whenever the fridge is plugged in.
2. It runs when ever the compressor is running.
[COLOR="Sienna"]Therefore, when I put my new heater in and it doesn't come on, it may be that the timer just hasn't advanced far enough to energize it. Am I correct[/COLOR]
Yes you are correct.
[COLOR="Sienna"]or am I gonna have to melt that ice and test the timer and thermostat?[/COLOR]
I would check the defrost operation first and find out if it is now working.
If it is then I would do a manual defrost using a hair dryer and sopping up the water. Since the coils are probably iced up solid and auto defrost would probably take a couple cycles to clear the coils.
Would not be a bad idea to flush the drain system with a 10% bleach solution just to clean it out and kill any crud growing in it. Just be careful to not overflow your drip tray.
Do not try to chip the ice off.
Your defrost timer is probably in the control console. There is usually a hole in the cover to let you rotate the timer cam with a screwdriver.
If not it will be under the unit either at the front or the back.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
If they are heavily iced/frosted over you have a defrost problem.
If yes.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam till the fans and compressor turn off.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
If the heater is OK
Remove one wire to the defrost thermostat and measure it, should be 0 ohms when frozen. Note that it opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
If both the above are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
Best way to test this is a live test to see if you have 120 volts across the heater/defrost thermostat combo.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
