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The dryer will not start, I have checked the incoming power and get 240v (120 over 2 legs) the start button appears to be working properly. When I select the wash cycle and press the button I get power down to the Thermal fuse, with the power off i test the fuse with an ohm meter and it is closed. the door switch appears to be working properly since I can open the door and the start button pops out (not the right term i know but it shuts off). I hit start and get power down to the motor. I do not get a humm from the motor like it is trying to run.
I'm thinking possibly thermal cutoff but not positive on how to test it.
How do I test it?
Any other thoughts or ideas?
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for WED5840 models | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram, see attachment. There seems to be a problem between the parts breakdown and the wiring diagram. The wiring diagram shows a thermal fuse (usually mounted on the blower assembly) and the parts does not. Since it sounds like you have a meter. Unplug the unit. Unplug one wire from the fuse. This prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path. Set your meter to a low scale (200 ohms) and measure the fuse. Should be 0 ohms. If it is blown be sure to clean/check your vent system as it is the most common cause for the fuse blowing. |
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thanks denman,
I was able to test the thermal fuse and thermal cutoff with the meter.
Good idea to remove the wire to test. found both are good.
I pluged it in and an trying to find the break in the voltage. I test from the timer to the start button i get 0v with everything on the off position.
When I select a cycle and hit start the button engages i get 120v from the timer to the start button down accross the thermal fuse to the motor.
I open the door and the start button pops to off and voltage then goes to nothing, so i am sure I'm good there.
I pulled power and took off the timer switch and sounds like something is ratteling inside there. Don't think that's good. Ran out of time so I'll take it appart and see what's broken inside there this evening.
My only thought is if the timer is broken in some way why am I getting voltage? Doesn't it basically start at the timer?
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My only thought is if the timer is broken in some way why am I getting voltage?
There is voltage at the timer all the time. It all depends on what you are measuring, where the timer is set and where the meter leads are.
Doesn't it basically start at the timer?
Am not sure what you mean by start the timer.
In timed dry modes the timer motor get power through Timer Switch 3 directly from the line.
In auto modes timer switch 3 is open so it now gets power from the Electronic Control board ( moisture sensor.
Since you do see voltage at the fuse when you push the start button I would say your BU/BK timer contacts are OK.
The ones I would check first is the Timer Switch 4. It connects the Neutral to the motor.
You can check this by:
Unplug the unit.
Set it to a mid scale dry mode. The same type of mode you are using when it will not work.
Unplug the W connection at the timer.
Measure across the T/W contacts.
They should be 0 ohms. |
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Thanks for the help denman,
That was it, I took it out and opened it up and that contact is fried.
Time to order a new timer.
Is there any documentation that shows test points and what voltages should be where?
Or should I basically go off the wiring diagram and an ohm meter?
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[COLOR="Blue"]Is there any documentation that shows test points and what voltages should be where?[/COLOR]
Not that I know of but it is a fairly simple circuit so is not hard to figure out what voltage should be where.
[COLOR="Blue"]Or should I basically go off the wiring diagram and an ohm meter?[/COLOR]
That is what I would do. It is a lot safer and once you know that the power in is good does as good a job or better than messing with a live unit. |
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