I have replaced my GE fridge that had a burned out control board, followed by three incidents of compressor failure even after replacing relay and overload. I have heard of similar trouble on the same model of GE fridge.
I now have a new Whirlpool and it's working fine, but I have to wonder: What if I have a wiring or other electrical issue that may be causing a low voltage situation? The fridge is on the same circuit as one other outlet in the kitchen; currently serving a microwave. All had run perfectly for over 5 years before the control board failed, tripping the circuit breaker and starting all my compressor failures, even with a new board. (the new board had it running for 3 weeks before it failed again)
I realize it's best to have the fridge on its own circuit, and I may have that done. But I also worry about the wiring itself, particularly the outlet serving the fridge. I hate to damage another fridge.
Is it realistic to think that a low voltage issue could have developed recently and damaged only the refrigerator compressor? (fan and inside blower were working fine on the GE) I will track down a multimeter in the next day or so and try to test the outlet.

I use the Lowe's surge protector, 1000 Joules, in a blue box and made for Appliances, $12.95

Here's a bit of an update: I borrowed a multimeter from a friend to try testing the outlets. I have not yet tried the one the fridge is on, but the other outlet on that circuit, as well as several others in the house, show 123 volts. (not sure exactly how reliable the meter is)
Is that a problem? Should I always be under 120 to be safe?

You can call this sites parts section for a 1000 Joule surge protector, they should have one. The Joule rating specifies how much energy the device will shunt away from the appliance. Make sure you get one for appliances. A lot of the computer devices actually blow out if there is a serious power surge, thus removing power from the fridg. a nasty surprise!!