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3 Electric Dryers not working-Begging for help
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Model: SEVERAL Brand: -brand- Age: Less than 1 year
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mudmin  
#1 Posted : Saturday, January 8, 2011 2:30:03 PM(UTC)
mudmin

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If someone would please help me, I either have the worst luck or there is something REALLY stupid that I'm missing.

I am installing a new laundry room that is 3 feet from my breaker box. I installed 10Awg wire on a 30A breaker to a dryer plug. It tests perfectly. 110 from each pole to center, 220 across the poles. I installed a dryer pigtail to a dryer that I was given that was pulled working. It kicked on loud for 3 seconds (I was told the thing was always loud) and died. Never came on again.

I bought a new dryer from lowes (floor model) and hooked up the pigtail. Before firing it up, I checked 220 from left to right screw on the back. 110 from center to each side. Push the power button. Nothing happens.

I return the lowes dryer and buy one from home depot. Same procedure. Same results. Can anyone tell me what in the world is going on? 1 used, 2 new dryers. Nothing works. Short of carrying the dryer to someone else's house, does anyone have something for me to check?
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denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 4:45:12 AM(UTC)
denman

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What do you mean by pigtail?
Are you hard wiring the unit in or are you talking about a line cord?

Is this a 4 wire or 3 wire hook up?
If 3 wire check that the ground strap from Neutral (terminal strip) to the dryer frame is connected.
If 4 wire check that the ground strap from Neutral (terminal strip) to the unit's frame is disconnected and/or removed. And that the green from power in, is connected to the frame.

The first thing I would do is check the continuity of the wire or line cord wires. Remove it from the dryer and house supply when doing this.
By the sound of it you may have already done this on Dryer 2 if I understand your post that you checked for power at the terminal strip in the unit. Which would be the same as doing a resistance check just more dangerous.

The dryer motor usually runs on the L1 (black) and Neutral (white) side of the line. You could try the following test.
[COLOR="Red"]Note: This is dangerous so be very, very careful or get a pro in.[/COLOR]
At the terminal strip measure from L1 to Neutral.
You should see 120 volts.
Then have someone else push the push to start.
The 120 volts should remain there.
If not you have a bad connection or a faulty breaker.
[COLOR="Red"]
Again be careful as the unit will move when/if it starts and if you meter leads slip you could have a large arc and spark.[/COLOR]
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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mudmin  
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 6:11:02 AM(UTC)
mudmin

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It is a 3 wire hookup and I do get 120 from L1 to Neutral and it does go to zero when I push the start button.

So, I changed the breaker...same problem.

Then I took the wire from my water heater and pivoted it over to the dryer. That's a new breaker and a new wire. Hooked it up. Same problem. Voltage drops to zero.

What am I missing? I've built 7 laundry rooms in my day and I'm just baffled here.
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denman  
#4 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 6:42:16 AM(UTC)
denman

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[COLOR="Blue"]What am I missing? I've built 7 laundry rooms in my day and I'm just baffled here.[/COLOR]
I do not know what you are missing but it does sound like it is a house wiring issue.
From what you have said the water tank works OK but then it does not use the Neutral so I think this is what is dropping out for some reason.
Check L2 side at the terminal strip if is also drops to zero then you know for sure that is is the Neutral that is dropping out.

May be time to call in an electrician or your power company.

The only other thing you can do is go back to the box and check what is happening there.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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mudmin  
#5 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 12:17:31 PM(UTC)
mudmin

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You are the freakin' man. All of the outlets in my house tested fine, but when I checked the main neutral lug in the box (no...I didn't install it :) the neutral lug was loose.

FYI in that situation, when I put the meter from L1 to N and pushed the button, the meter went from 120 to 0.

When I put the meter from L2 to N and pushed the start button, it went from 120 to 240. Tightened the main neutral lug and the problem went away.

For everyone out there, dealing with the main lug (those huge wires that come into the breaker box) is dangerous and should be left only to an electrician. THEY ARE ALWAYS LIVE even when your main breaker is off, so do not try this at home.
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denman  
#6 Posted : Sunday, January 9, 2011 4:03:55 PM(UTC)
denman

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Thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
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