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GE washer will fill and drain but no spin/agitate
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Originally Posted by: try2repairguy  Thanks, Gene. Didn't work though. I don't see any green LED on the inverter board at all, even in total darkness, I see nothing which is bizarre since everywhere I turn, this LED is mentioned. Under the control panel was a service guide, presumably for use by a tech if/when one comes to repair or service the unit and there is mention of it on that too with problem codes though I see no light. None. BTW - I peeled back a small bit of the Red/White wire casing above and below the fused link and jumped a wire around the fuse. The other thing I noticed when doing this since I am quite familiar with household electric, the schem. labels this wire as Neutral (white commonly in house wiring) but it appears to have power on it. Nothing big but while tying in with my jumper, plugged in (not afraid to work on live electric since I usually know what NOT to touch, as I twisted the jumper around the expsed wire on the motor side of the fuse, I managed to slightly touch the side panel and got a little shock. I thought that was odd since this wire is supposed to be neutral or GROUND. Short through the motor perhaps which could explain why the fuse blew?
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Originally Posted by: try2repairguy ...as I twisted the jumper around the expsed wire on the motor side of the fuse, I managed to slightly touch the side panel and got a little shock. I thought that was odd since this wire is supposed to be neutral or GROUND. Short through the motor perhaps which could explain why the fuse blew?... The fused line (neutral) goes to the inverter and not suppose to be powered up. The inverter is located on the top of the motor and can not be separated. Most common cause for the fuse failure is a shorted brake resistor or another motor problem. So looks like the motor has gone bad. You can see the location of the motor signal LED in the file attached to the reply. BTW - you did not post the model number of the washer. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene The fused line (neutral) goes to the inverter and not suppose to be powered up. The inverter is located on the top of the motor and can not be separated.
Most common cause for the fuse failure is a shorted brake resistor or another motor problem. So looks like the motor has gone bad.
You can see the location of the motor signal LED in the file attached to the reply.
BTW - you did not post the model number of the washer.
Gene. Thanks again, Gene. The model I'm working with is a GE Profile WPRE6100 and I purchased it 4-years ago. I'm really bummed that it went since the Washer I had before, I probably had for almost 20-years. The only thing I ever replaced on that washer was the lint filter. This thing is a real bear trying to figure out what's wrong. I'm supposed to have 135 Volts DC on the mode switcher plug that should turn down to around 30 Volts after about 15-seconds and I get nothing. This voltage is required to charge up the coil on the mode switcher so the cam/gear disengages for agitate cycles. Without this voltage, the cam is stuck in perpetual spin mode even though the spin cycle isn't working either. The LED is just not there or, it is and is in total darkness where I can't see it. I tried shining a light up under the spill cover and scanned the board but it must be either hidden behind some other components like an IC or something because I just don't see it nor is it flashing. Service mode codes are fine - I get C, H, P (Cold feed, Hot feed, and Pump) all work. AL, AH, SP are all dead. No low-speed agitate mode, no high speed agitate mode, no spin. I'm ready to rip the motor out but see that it could be a pain to put back together. That belt worries me since I know I'll get the motor out, easy enough. But putting it back together looks like a real pain. Oh well - I guess I gotta do what I gotta do. I hate guessing because if I rip this motor out and replace it and it turns out to be the transmission or something else, what a waste. Couldn't have been just a bad fuse - nah, that'd be too simple :-) ready to junk this thing.
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Originally Posted by: try2repairguy ...I hate guessing because if I rip this motor out and replace it and it turns out to be the transmission or something else, what a waste... Not if you will order it from Appliance Parts Pros. You can return any part even if it was installed. - The motor Part number: AP4536552
Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Not if you will order it from Appliance Parts Pros. You can return any part even if it was installed. - The motor Part number: AP4536552
Gene. Thanks again. How about just the inverter PC board? I ripped the motor out and though against what I've read about separating the unit, I just had to see where this LED was. I removed the 4-cover torx screws and the cover popped off easily when the 2-wires connected to the permanent resister were disconnected. There was a scorch near the C7 plug on the board where it looks like either 2- small capacitors or resistors are and may have burnt out. There's also scorching on the underside of the cover right above where this location is. The LED would seem obvious to spot though I still haven't seen it. It looks like it might be
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Originally Posted by: try2repairguy Thanks again. How about just the inverter PC board?
I ripped the motor out and though against what I've read about separating the unit, I just had to see where this LED was. I removed the 4-cover torx screws and the cover popped off easily when the 2-wires connected to the permanent resister were disconnected. There was a scorch near the C7 plug on the board where it looks like either 2- small capacitors or resistors are and may have burnt out. There's also scorching on the underside of the cover right above where this location is. The LED would seem obvious to spot though I still haven't seen it. It looks like it might be Another question - why is the fusible link on the neutral side of the power source rather than the power or common side? It would make sense since a broken fuse that opens the circuit entirely on the feed side of power would kill the entire 120v AC coming in and render the unit completely dead PLUS, protect the onboard components. With the fuse on the neutral side, power still reaches the plugs leading to the electronics which usually results in what I've experienced - a dead electronics board that burnt up one or more components Putting the in-line fuse on the return side of the power source doesn't sound like such a great safety feature nor does it protect the unit from self destruction. I'm surprised it didn't go on fire. Plus, how nice would it have been, had the circuitry been protected by a simple fuse, just to replace the fuse and voila! You're back in business.
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There are two things that will cause the light not to blink and they are a bad fuse and a bad motor. Assuming you don’t have a loose connection somewhere the light should blink anytime the washer is plugged in. If it is not blinking you have a bad fuse or a bad motor. If you know the fuse isn’t blown you will have to check for voltage at the motor. Check between the red/black and the white/red wires you should get 110V. If you get voltage but the light isn’t blinking the motor is bad. Also note that you will not get voltage if the fuse is blown because the fuse breaks the neutral line. You can check the fuse by cutting the wires and checking for continuity across the fuse or you can check from the white/red wire to the neutral tab on the cord. If it is open the fuse is bad. Note that you have to disconnect both the washer plug (obviously) and the motor plug for this test to be accurate. There is a picture on this page that will help with explain what I am talking about. HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide
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Originally Posted by: applianceman There are two things that will cause the light not to blink and they are a bad fuse and a bad motor. Assuming you don’t have a loose connection somewhere the light should blink anytime the washer is plugged in. If it is not blinking you have a bad fuse or a bad motor. If you know the fuse isn’t blown you will have to check for voltage at the motor. Check between the red/black and the white/red wires you should get 110V. If you get voltage but the light isn’t blinking the motor is bad. Also note that you will not get voltage if the fuse is blown because the fuse breaks the neutral line. You can check the fuse by cutting the wires and checking for continuity across the fuse or you can check from the white/red wire to the neutral tab on the cord. If it is open the fuse is bad. Note that you have to disconnect both the washer plug (obviously) and the motor plug for this test to be accurate. There is a picture on this page that will help with explain what I am talking about. HydroWave GE Washer Repair Guide Thanks applianceman, I've already determined the fuse is bad so I know I'll need a new one of those :-) The motor is out on my bench and I've taken the inverter board off, scoured over that thing, and for the life of me, I still can't see or find that LED light :-) Anyway, water under the bridge as they say. There was some scorching around a couple of capacitors (or resistors) on the board just where the C7 plug connects which most likely explains why the agitate/spin cycles aren't working. There is no DC voltage present at this plug to energize the mode switching coil which is keeping the cam gear engaged (spin cycle). Without the ability to energize the coil, the solenoid won't charge up and disengage the cam gear plus the fact that the board burnt up based on what I could physically see, isn't sounding too promising with regards to the motor/inverter. What I was trying to find out is if the board alone is available though probably not. It'd be less expensive to replace the board than the whole unit OR, I could unsolder the two burnt components (resistors or capacitors I think), bring them down to my local Radio Shack store, cross reference them, buy them (probably .25 each), re-solder them into the board, put it back together, and if it works, all I spent was some time and a half-a-buck rather then over $200. It's reaching but in order to save $$, probably worth a try. That or, if I could find just the board alone without the motor/entire assembly, that would be another option. I could bench-test the motor with simple 120V connection and if it works, I don't really need another motor. I'll keep looking. Thanks!
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You do have to buy the whole motor the inverter isn’t sold separately. As far as changing components on the inverter if you can get it to work great but this isn’t something I would do or recommend doing. The thing is you really don’t have anything to loose.
In your case it seems as if the motor caused the fuse to blow but I have changed a few dozen fuses without having to change the motor. By the same token I have change a few fuse that blew right away, obliviously a bad motor. The point I am trying to make is for others that may read this thread so that they don’t think that every time the fuse is blown it means a bad motor.
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Originally Posted by: Gene Remove the front panel and locate the green LED on the right side on top of the motor on the inverter plate. Monitor and calculate number of flashes during a 6 seconds period. Post the result.
This is one of the last GE models and it should be good as long as you use it properly. You'll have more troubles with most of flrontloaders.
Gene. Gene I have this problem right now with the GE Profile washer. In a 6 interval period, the diode (LED) blinks 4 times. Can you help me out?
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