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GE washer will fill and drain but no spin/agitate
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Originally Posted by: applianceman  Check the lid switch. On the motor there are four plugs. Disconnect the plug farthest left. Place one lead of your ohmmeter on the line terminal of the power cord and the other on the orange (may not be orange) wire of the motor plug. It should be the wire on the far end directly opposite of the green wire. You should get continuity across this with the lid closed and it should be open when the lid is opened.
There is picture on this page that shows what I am talking about. HydroWave GE Washer Repair GuideIf the lid swich is ok Put the washer into high-speed spin mode. There should be a red plug on the far right of the motor. With the washer in spin there should be 12 VDC between pins 5 (pin farthest right it should be purple) to pin 3 (third from left blue) and 12 VDC from pins 5 to pin 4 (forth from left black). If the voltages are good and the motor will not run the motor is bad. If you are not getting the correct voltage replace the control. I'm in the same boat. I just tested these. There is 12 volts across pins 5 & 4, but no voltage across pins 5 & 3. So, what control am I going to replace? The timer board? Thanks!!!
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One more thing that should be noted is that the washer starts out in slow spin then goes into high-speed spin during a normal spin cycle. If you enter the high-speed spin in the service mode this doesn’t happen. So it may be necessary to wait about two minutes before testing if it is in the normal spin (not service mode). If the motor isn’t to the point of high speed then there may not be voltage at both points. Try it again.
But before you do this did you try resetting the washer as suggested?
Can you see the blinking light?
I ask because the voltage test I gave is the last test you should do to determine if the control or the motor is the problem. First you should rule out fault codes and a blown fuse.
Assuming you checked all of this and you are not getting the correct voltage to the motor then the control is bad.
One more thing does your motor have the green light or the red light?
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: applianceman One more thing that should be noted is that the washer starts out in slow spin then goes into high-speed spin during a normal spin cycle. If you enter the high-speed spin in the service mode this doesn’t happen. So it may be necessary to wait about two minutes before testing if it is in the normal spin (not service mode). If the motor isn’t to the point of high speed then there may not be voltage at both points. Try it again.
But before you do this did you try resetting the washer as suggested? YES
Can you see the blinking light? NO. IT'S EITHER TOO WELL HIDDEN OR NON-EXISTANT.
I ask because the voltage test I gave is the last test you should do to determine if the control or the motor is the problem. First you should rule out fault codes and a blown fuse. I DID ELIMINATE THE BLOWN FUSE. THE ONLY FAULT CODES I COULD ASCERTAIN WERE THE FIELD SERVICE CODES. ALL INDICATED OK.
Assuming you checked all of this and you are not getting the correct voltage to the motor then the control is bad. IS THE CONTROL THE TIMER CONTROL BOARD?
One more thing does your motor have the green light or the red light? NEITHER THAT I CAN SEE VIA MUCH LOOKING. Thank you for the help. This thing has me buffaloed. :eek:
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PcsuttonNot being able to see the light blinking points more towards the motor. There is a video on this page that shows where the light is http://www.appliance-repair-it.com/GE-washer-repair.html Just in case you are not looking in the right direction. The fuse will cause the light not to blink and a bad motor will also cause this. A bad control will not cause the light to go out. You need to confirm that you have voltage coming to the motor and if so I say your motor is bad. On the plug farthest left test for 120V from the white/red wire to the red/black wire. If you have a timer model read below. Ryn1127When I gave you the voltage readings for whatever reason I was thinking you had the electronic control (I should have known 1470 models had the timer) when really you have a timer model which is different. I erased that part of the post so there isn’t any confusion. You still need to check the lid switch. In high-speed spin this is how you check it. On the plug farthest left you will see white/red wire (second wire next to the green wire but it will be an empty slot making it the third pin) this is common for testing. The other wires you have to test are on the plug farthest right. The third pin on the far right plug is the first test point (should be a blue wire). You should get 120V between the third pin (blue wire) and the common white/red wire. Voltage at this point means the motor should be running high speed. The 5th pin on the far right is the next test (should be a red wire). You should get 120V from the common white/red to the red wire to the 5th pin on the far right plug. Voltage at this point indicates the motor should be in spin mode. You will not get this voltage reading until the water is pumped out. If the voltages are not present the timer is bad. If you get the voltage the motor is bad. You don’t have to wait the voltage should be there as soon as the spin cycle is started.
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Thanks guys for the help. I have the lid switch bypassed temporarily and have ordered a new one from appliancepartspros.com.
Thanks again,
Ryan
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Originally Posted by: Gene Ryan,
Check the mode shifter coil. Remove the plug C7 (the second plug from the right side with the two wires - red & yellow) and measure the resistance across these wires. It suppose to be about 98 Ohms.
Gene. Hi Gene, If I may interject, there is a voltage reading test in addition to continuity testing between these two wires. According to a spec. book (PDF) I obtained, there should be 135 VDC between these two wires for the first 15-seconds of the cycle and 30 VDC for the rest of the cycle. I have neither which causes some confusion as to where the problem I'm having might exist. I get the 91-ohms across these pins otherwise. I don't get any DC voltage readings. Any ideas? Thanks!
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One other thing - there are multiple voltage/continuity tests that can be done with these plugs (C2, C4, and C7). I get line voltage on C2 between pins 5 and 3 and pins 6 and 3. I also get 9 volts DC on C4 between pin 5 and pins 1, 2, 3, and 4 which indicates a good main control.
Without opening the harness to test the fuse, what procedure is there? I can see on the schematic where you can probe C2/pin3(White/Red) but am not sure where this line ends in order to probe the other side for continuity that would show a closed circuit or zero(0) ohms resistance indicating a good fuse.
If the fuse is blown, the end-to-end probe would show infinite ohms or full resistance.
I can't figure out how to test this without opening the harness to expose the fuse.
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Never mind - I was able to probe the Red/White line at the pin then pierced the tip of the other meter probe through the wire casing and determined the fuse is bad. Is it possible to bypass to make sure though I'm 100% positive it is bad and if I can or do bypass it, temporarily of course, should the motor come on?
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Originally Posted by: try2repairguy Never mind - I was able to probe the Red/White line at the pin then pierced the tip of the other meter probe through the wire casing and determined the fuse is bad. Is it possible to bypass to make sure though I'm 100% positive it is bad and if I can or do bypass it, temporarily of course, should the motor come on? You probably can carefully do it for a few seconds only. Check the inverter LED for possible error codes before you start the washer. Gene.
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Originally Posted by: Gene You probably can carefully do it for a few seconds only. Check the inverter LED for possible error codes before you start the washer.
Gene. Thanks, Gene. Didn't work though. I don't see any green LED on the inverter board at all, even in total darkness, I see nothing which is bizarre since everywhere I turn, this LED is mentioned. Under the control panel was a service guide, presumably for use by a tech if/when one comes to repair or service the unit and there is mention of it on that too with problem codes though I see no light. None.
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GE washer will fill and drain but no spin/agitate
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