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I have a Maytag Bravos washing machine. Neither the agitator or spin will work. I used your website to perform the test with the machine in diagnostics where I can turn on/off each output individually. Everything checks out and works as it should except agitate and spin now. I say now, because I started looking at the machine because of the "F50" code. When I first started on it, the agitate and spin would not work but I pulled the control out, looked it over, reset connections, put it back together and everything worked. Put the first load of clothes in and no work. Did everything I did before but cannot get the spin and agitate to work again. I am thinking the control but is there a sensor or anything else that I could be missing that wont throw a code that could mislead me into believing its the control? I measured the resistance to the motor from the P5 connection and all readings are about 30 ohms. I dont read a dc voltage at this conncector when the motor should be running. Any help is appreciated.
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Originally Posted by: joep189  I have a Maytag Bravos washing machine. Neither the agitator or spin will work. I used your website to perform the test with the machine in diagnostics where I can turn on/off each output individually. Everything checks out and works as it should except agitate and spin now. I say now, because I started looking at the machine because of the "F50" code. When I first started on it, the agitate and spin would not work but I pulled the control out, looked it over, reset connections, put it back together and everything worked. Put the first load of clothes in and no work. Did everything I did before but cannot get the spin and agitate to work again. I am thinking the control but is there a sensor or anything else that I could be missing that wont throw a code that could mislead me into believing its the control? I measured the resistance to the motor from the P5 connection and all readings are about 30 ohms. I dont read a dc voltage at this conncector when the motor should be running. Any help is appreciated. Joe P., The first thing to do is, Remove the agitator, and the spin basket, Check for anything stuck, under or between the tubs. If that all checks OK, Check the voltage at the outlet, both static, and under a load(washer running) the voltage has to remain above 105 volts at the motor surge,(start) and prefer to see 108 volts when the motor is in a run mode. You will most likely need the RPS kit, Part number: AP4327312
That is the most common problem with this style unit, when it comes to the F50,F51 codes. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe,
Thanks for the quick response. The part number you suggested seems to be a connector to the motor, correct? If this is a problem, shouldnt I see a intermittent or high impedance reading to the motor and a voltage out of the control? Help me I understand on any level you need to..I am a design EE with a large HVAC oem. thx
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Originally Posted by: joep189 Joe,
Thanks for the quick response. The part number you suggested seems to be a connector to the motor, correct? If this is a problem, shouldnt I see a intermittent or high impedance reading to the motor and a voltage out of the control? Help me I understand on any level you need to..I am a design EE with a large HVAC oem. thx Joe P., The part I reccomended should be a complete sensor, housing, and wire harness kit. Apparently, the manufacturer's engineering team,did not find it necessary to inform the technical staff of the problem, other than, there is some possible internal connection in the harness or a EMI interference. That's why the kit was "re worked" and designed by the manufacturer, I have since moved on to "greener pastures". It was my experience, even though,I had the proper resistance readings on the harness and connections,etc. replacing or installing the repair kit solved the problem, prior to the kit it was a "Shot Gun" repair process. As for the DVC volts to the motor and RPS, there won't be any, unless the control chip sees the correct inputs from the RPS circuits. If you feel comfortable with the test readings, harness and wiring connections, Then you'd want to replace the CCU/control board. Part number: AP4360738
Good Luck, :) :) :)
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Joe,
I ordered the rps kit today from you guys. I got anxious and started taking it apart so that I would be ready when it came in and to look to see if I needed anything else. Two othere areas of concern I wanted to ask about. First, the plastic house, or the rotor itself has some slight cracks. Also, there is some black grease, almost looks watery, around the bearing and the center of the rotor and cover. Should I be concerned about either?
thx
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Originally Posted by: joep189 Joe,
I ordered the rps kit today from you guys. I got anxious and started taking it apart so that I would be ready when it came in and to look to see if I needed anything else. Two othere areas of concern I wanted to ask about. First, the plastic house, or the rotor itself has some slight cracks. Also, there is some black grease, almost looks watery, around the bearing and the center of the rotor and cover. Should I be concerned about either?
thx Joe P., Not now, anyway, The cracked housing and or sensor assembly,could have been the problem as far as the F50, F51 codes,and the stuttering motor, the housing flexxing, because of the cracks could have been the whole problem. You'll take care of that with the new kit, just make sure you don't over torque anything, and everything is aligned properly before you wrap it up. As for the thin grease or oil, there usually is a small amount(1/2 teaspoon or less) in the bearing area,is normal, we got to lube that bearing area somehow, that's the way they do it. So no need to worry, let it be. You'll be OK after you get it all replaced and installed. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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Joe,
Just installed the rps kit, no difference. Guess that means the control, right?
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Originally Posted by: joep189 Joe,
Just installed the rps kit, no difference. Guess that means the control, right? Joe P., Afraid so, We have that 1 in 10 washer, that actually needs the control board. It happens, Good Luck, Happy New Year :) :) :)
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Joe,
Cut me any slack on the control cost now? I checked all inputs to the control and they look right. I also measured the resistance from the rps, hall effect sensors, new and my old, measure 1.5K and the diagnostic sheet says it supposed to be 15K? Any concerns here. Whats your confidence level its the control...Also, any areas on the control, solder joints, connections on the inductors, bad caps I can focus in on to fix.
thx
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Originally Posted by: joep189 Joe,
Cut me any slack on the control cost now? I checked all inputs to the control and they look right. I also measured the resistance from the rps, hall effect sensors, new and my old, measure 1.5K and the diagnostic sheet says it supposed to be 15K? Any concerns here. Whats your confidence level its the control...Also, any areas on the control, solder joints, connections on the inductors, bad caps I can focus in on to fix.
thx Joe P. I'm not concerned about the resistance readings on the sensor assembly, probably a misprint, my sheet has 1.5k. I'm pretty confident, you need the control board. I'm sure you installed the complete sensor kit, and did it properly. That leaves only the control board to be at fault. I have not had the opportunity to dismantle the CCU, and trace circuits or components, and the engineers are a little stingy with the information they release. Like I said, you have that 1 in 10 machine, that needs the CCU, but we did fllow the manufacturers procedure. :cool: :cool: :cool:
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