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sigtauenus  
#1 Posted : Tuesday, December 21, 2010 2:22:40 PM(UTC)
sigtauenus

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Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

Serial number XP4504651.

Oven age is unknown, house purchased 6 years ago with relatively new oven at the time. If you can id age by the serial number, please let me know as that would be helpful in our decision to repair or replace.

Oven overheated a couple weeks ago, catching a batch of brownies on fire. The door locked and the control panel was unresponsive to attempts to turn oven off or unlock the door.

I have since figured out that due to the overtemp (>550*), the door automatically locked as a safety feature.

At the time of the incident, the oven was turned off via the circuit breaker.

After the oven cooled, the door unlocked and was able to be opened.

This happened before, about 2 years ago (not a fire, but a F0 or F3 error, don't recall exactly), and we replaced the temperature sensor, which was the correct fix at the time.

This time I pulled the temperature sensor and measured the resistance at 1048 ohms. I saw on another topic that it should be around 1100, so we're in the ballpark, as opposed to 0 or significantly higher than that. I now suspect the problem is the electronic control panel which is a $180-220 part depending on source.

We turned the breaker back on, reset the clock, and the range top works fine.

I tried the oven the other day at 350*, using preheat and then heated up some taco shells for about 6 minutes. All appeared normal. My wife then cooked some Christmas cookies the next day again at 350*, two batches at about 20 minutes each, and again it appeared to work normal.

I read in another topic about a "hard reset," turning power to the oven off. Effectively that is what we did when we turned the breaker off during the problem incident.

That reset appears to have worked, but I am hesitant to trust the oven now, as overheating to the point of starting a fire on the baked item is very dangerous.

My question here is two-fold. First, how common is this electrical malfunction that it can be fixed with a "reset?" I'm very used to this technique on anything electronic from a phone to a computer to a jet aircraft. Sometimes removing power and restarting it does the trick. Second, if this reset is not a common fix, how likely is it that the problem is with the control panel? I'm pretty sure I already eliminated the temperature sensor as the problem, and I find it unlikely to be a problem with the wiring, but I'm unaware of any other components that may be involved.

If its likely the reset is common and it worked, I'm ok as-is.

If I need to replace the control panel, I'm comfortable spending $200 to repair the oven as it seems like a nice model and works fine otherwise.

If there is any doubt as to the problem, I'd rather replace the oven than spend money chasing parts.

Thanks in advance for any input provided.
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sigtauenus  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 21, 2010 2:37:12 PM(UTC)
sigtauenus

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

Also, parts I'm looking at are white control panel 4456311 and electric control 8302994.

It looks like I was mistaken above, as both parts are in the $180 range, and after looking at the photos it appears that the white control panel is just the face with the buttons, and the electric control is the circuit board behind the control panel.

Not knowing if its the control panel or the control board, my interpretation here is that I am actually looking at a $360-400 repair to replace both parts.
sigtauenus  
#3 Posted : Friday, December 24, 2010 7:49:22 AM(UTC)
sigtauenus

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/21/2010(UTC)
Posts: 4

In the absence of any other comments, we are continuing to use the oven as-is. If we have any more problems with it though, its gone. My wife likes the new double oven range models, so we'll likely replace the drop in oven with one of these...

UserPostedImage

GGE388LXQ

Yes, I know, we have to rebuild the cabinet area and rewire the outlet.
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